Royal Deeside – Scottish History and Castles
By Vivien Devlin
 “It
was so calm and so solitary and the pure mountain air was so refreshing. All
seemed to breathe freedom and peace and to make one forget the world and its sad
turmoils. We are certainly in the finest part of the Highlands.”
Queen Victoria
 Aberdeenshire
is the perfect Scottish destination to spend a few days to explore its colourful
history as well as appreciating the fresh Highland air and spectacular scenery.
This stunningly scenic region is an ideal self-contained visitor attraction in
itself, with an easy to plan journey around a series of clearly sign-posted
tourist trails. For those interested to learn more about the British Royal
family, follow Queen Victoria’s footsteps on the Victorian Heritage Trail. And
step back in time to experience the preserved architecture on Scotland's only
Castle Trail featuring no less than thirteen of the world's most unique castles.
 The
picture postcard valley of the Dee is known as Royal Deeside due to the fact
that the Royal Family over several generations has spent summer holidays at
Balmoral, their Scottish residence for 150 years. Queen Victoria and Prince
Albert fell in love with the tranquil countryside here when they first visited
in 1848. They began looking for a sporting estate for a Scottish holiday home
and purchased Balmoral in 1852, described by Queen Victoria as “my dear paradise
in the Highlands”. This is still a beloved retreat for the present Queen and her
family.
.jpg) With
the international success of the 2007 Oscar winning movie, “The Queen” starring
Helen Mirren, the Dee valley is sure to be busy with set jetters coming to visit
the castle.
Perhaps because of the royal connection to this part of Scotland, the landscape
is quite majestic -gentle rolling hills, grand glens, wide rivers and verdant
pine forests. The River Dee rises in the Cairngorm mountains and flows down
through the valley, eastwards to the sea at Aberdeen. Apart from absorbing the
history of the area, this is a natural playground for outdoor sports including
fishing, golf, walking, gliding and horse riding.
Where to stay
 The
pretty village of Ballater was where Queen Victoria arrived by train in 1848
when she first visited the area. Today, just 40 miles from the city of Aberdeen,
it’s the most perfect base for an inspiring holiday and to explore the
surrounding region of Royal Deeside.
Darroch Learg was built in 1888 as a Victorian shooting lodge and now a homely
comfortable country house hotel. You will be warmly welcomed by the owners Nigel
and Fiona Franks who are hands-on managers, ensuring that their guests are well
looked after with the very best hospitality. The relaxed ambience of Darroch
Learg is distinctly different. As the Franks will personally greet you and offer
you a drink before dinner, it really does feel as if you are visiting friends in
their Highland home. There are several repeat guests who come back year after
year for a couple of weeks. So much of the pleasure of travelling is meeting
like-minded people to share experiences. And here in the plush crimson drawing
room, stuffed with plaid sofas and comfy armchairs you certainly will feel at
home and enjoy a friendly house party atmosphere.
 Darroch
Learg has a charming Conservatory restaurant serving best Scottish produce –
Aberdeen Angus beef, scallops, halibut, Deeside venison. From a flute of ice
cold champagne to dessert and coffee, the dinner experience with fine wines, is
a memorable, foodie delight, enhanced by quiet, well measured service, overseen
by Fiona Franks.
The 18 bedrooms come in all sizes from standard to master suite, all beautifully
furnished in plush fabrics, some with 4 poster beds. Room 8, a charming double
bedroom, with spacious and very pretty yellow bathroom on the second floor is
delightful. This is an attic room with combed ceiling and the views across the
Dee Valley are spectacular. The armchairs at the window are just perfect for a
good read, a cup of tea - and gazing out the window.
 The
hotel is keen for their guests to experience as much as possible around Royal
Deeside. As part of the hotel’s A La Carte Activity programme, Nigel and Fiona
can advise you how to plan tailor made days out through local tourism guides and
businesses, whether you wish to rent a mountain bike, visit a couple of whisky
distilleries or try landscape painting. Ballater is a charming town to wander
around with traditional shops –many of which have the accolade “ by Royal
Appointment” as they supply goods to Balmoral. The Old Royal Station is well
worth visiting for the exhibition about Queen Victoria, Tourist information
centre as well as the attractive Station Restaurant serving delicious home
cooking.
As well as the major attraction of Balmoral just down the road, Darroch Learg is
in the heart of the Castle Trail country, with several magnificent National
Trust of Scotland properties within a few miles drive.
The Castle Trail
 First
stop, near Alford, the pink seven-storey Craigievar Castle topped with little
turrets – straight out of a child’s book of fairytales. This L plan grand tower
exemplifies some of the best Scottish Baronial architecture and the epitome of
the Jacobean Renaissance in Scotland. It stands just as it was when completed by
Master William Forbes - 'Danzig Willie' - in 1626. After 350 years as the home
of the Forbes Sempill family, in 1963 Craigievar was gifted, after a fundraising
appeal, to the National Trust of Scotland. The castle remains virtually
unchanged and fully furnished to preserve the atmosphere of the castle as it was
when the family lived here. There is much to admire - a fine collection of
family portraits and 17th-and 18th century furniture, the great hall, ornamental
ceiling, musician's gallery, secret staircase, butler’s pantry, drawing room,
Lady Sempill’s bedroom, servants' quarters. There is only one entrance and it is
said that although the Forbes might enter through the main door, they all had to
ultimately leave by the window as it was impossible to carry a coffin down the
narrow stairs. Surrounding the castle are beautiful parkland gardens and a
bluebell woodland walk.
 A
great day out can be enjoyed at Crathes Castle near Banchory, set amidst
glorious landscaped gardens. Completed in 1596, with the east wing added in the
18th century. With its portraits, oak ceilings, heraldic shields, Elizabethan
fireplace and more, Crathes is uniquely preserved. The castle is particularly
famous for its Jacobean painted ceilings, only uncovered in 1877. These can be
seen in the Chamber of the Muses, the Chamber of Nine Worthies and the Green
Lady's Room - which is said to be haunted. One of the most historic objects is
the Horn of Leys, a jewelled ivory horn on display in the hall. It is thought to
have been given by Robert the Bruce to the Burnetts in 1323 when he granted them
the Crathes estate. The castle was completed in 1596, with the east wing added
in the 18th century. The formal gardens are particularly beautiful. There are
eight themed areas divided by yew hedges planted in 1702. Wander around the
herbaceous borders, an avenue of lime trees and woodland.
 A
short drive from Crathes is Drum Castle which has a particularly long and
colourful history, owned by the Irvine family over 650 years, across twenty four
generations of nearly unbroken succession. The original tower keep, 70 feet from
base to battlement with walls twelve feet thick is thought to have been built
during the reign of Alexander III in the mid-thirteenth century. It was a secure
stronghold against attack and used as hunting lodge. The original house was
enlarged with the creation of a very fine Jacobean mansion house in 1619 and a
later addition during the reign of Queen Victoria. You can climb up to the
battlements for fabulous views. The grounds feature the Old Wood of Drum, the
habitat of red squirrels and woodpeckers, and also the perfumed Garden of
Historic Roses, including colourful roses from China.
 Undoubtedly
one of the finest castles in Scotland, Fyvie near Turriff, Aberdeenshire, can
trace its royal connections back to 1211 when visited by William the Lion.
Robert the Bruce held court at Fyvie and Charles I spent some years here as a
child.
The five towers of this baronial fortress are each associated with the castle's
five successive families - Preston, Meldrum, Seaton, Gordon and Forbes-Leith.
Art lovers will appreciate Fyvie's exemplary portrait collection, including
works by Batoni, Romney, Gainsborough, Opie, Lawrence and Raeburn. Throughout
this richly furnished castle, there are fine antiques, a 19th century American
walnut 4 poster bed, lavish fabrics, tapestries, arms, armour and the famous
grand stone wheel staircase. Fyvie's grounds and lochside were landscaped in the
early 19th century. The walled garden has recently been restored featuring fruit
trees, berries and vegetables and the American Garden was created in tribute to
the Scottish/American links through Alexander Forbes-Leith, Lord Leith of Fyvie,
who made his fortune in Illinois.
 The
beauty of Fyvie is that you can actually stay here. The Preston Tower Apartment
is a unique and fabulous place to stay for a special family gathering or special
event.
Catering can be arranged for a grand dinner. With seven bedrooms (sleeping up to
13 – the Tower is not suitable for young children), lavish reception rooms,
kitchen, and beautiful furnishings, this is a 5 star property for short term
rental through National Trust of Scotland Holidays.
Balmoral Castle
 “My
dear paradise in the Highlands… every year I seem to become fonder of this dear
place.” Queen Victoria.
Balmoral Castle and the 50,000 acre Estate has been the Highland retreat for the
Royal Family for over 150 years. In the latter period of her long reign after
the death of Prince Albert, Queen Victoria spent more and more time at Balmoral
Castle. She would visit in May and then return for two to three months in the
Autumn.
 Today,
the Queen and Prince Philip, their children, grandchildren and guests spend
summer holidays here from August to October. From April to the end of July and
selected dates through the winter, visitors are welcome to visit the extensive
grounds, gardens and exhibitions. The ballroom and stables have a series of
changing exhibits about the Royal family, documentary films and displays of
vintage carriages, costumes and photographs. An audio tour (in different
languages) guides you around the glorious gardens with its memorial statues, pet
cemetery, greenhouses, kitchen garden and charming cottages.
On arrival at the gates of Balmoral, you can walk or take a ride on board the
tractor drawn cart, up the winding the drive to the stables’ entrance hall. It
is not until you start exploring along the twisting paths and then turn a corner
that you will see the magnificent baronial turrets and frontage of the Castle
itself, set back across the manicured lawns and flower borders. It is a stunning
sight for the first time and makes you appreciate how Queen Victoria felt when
she found this idyllic location for her Scottish home.
 There
is also a choice of guided tours and Ranger guided estate walks to see the
woodlands, wildlife, flora and fauna. Even more exciting are the luxury private
safaris around the estate by landrover (4 people) into the Caledonian Pine
Forest and onto the open moorland at the foot of the famous Lochnagar Mountain.
You will spot birds of prey, red squirrel and red deer with the possibility of
seeing a golden eagle, black grouse or osprey.
Royal Deeside is an inspiring and picturesque destination all year round as the
seasons shift in colour and ambience, transforming the trees and hills from
verdant green to pink and purple heather. Based at Darroch Learg hotel, Ballater
could spend a week or more visiting the National Trust for Scotland castles,
Balmoral, Crathie Chu and the pretty town of Braemar famous for the Braemar
Gathering, the annual Highland Games held annually in September and attended by
the Royal Family.
 As
part of the Cairngorm National Park the countryside here is a wonderful
get-away-from-it-all holiday spot with all kinds of outdoor sports on offer from
fishing and hiking to golf and gliding. If you enjoy hill climbing, the best
walk is to the summit of Lochnagar made famous by Prince Charles in the book he
wrote for his younger brothers – The Old Man of Lochnagar. This majestic
mountain dominates the Royal Forest of Balmoral and takes its name from a small
loch at the foot.
 The
English poet Lord Byron went to school in Aberdeen and spent holidays at
Balletarach, near Ballater and he wrote a poem “Royal Lochnagar” inspired by
this dramatic yet peaceful North West corner of the Scottish Highlands.
Yet, Caledonia, beloved are thy mountains
Round their white summits though elements war
Though cataracts foam 'stead of smooth-flowing fountains
I sigh for the valley of Dark Loch na Garr
Visitor information
Darroch Learg
Braemar Road, Ballater
Aberdeenshire. AB35 5UX
Email – info@darrochlearg.co.uk
website,
www.darrochlearg.co.uk
National Trust for Scotland
www.nts.org.uk
Balmoral Castle and Estate
www.balmoralcastle.com
Travel.
As well as driving to Deeside from Edinburgh and Glasgow, visitors can fly to
Aberdeen, www.aberdeenairport.com
GNER train from London/ Edinburgh to Aberdeen.
www.gner.co.uk
Car Rental or Stagecoach bluebird bus Aberdeen to Ballater.
www.stagecoachbus.com
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