Timeless Hana

Exploring Maui’s East Side

by Chris Millikan

Tackling Maui’s celebrated white-knuckle Highway to Hana, we investigate the secluded beauty around the charming town at road’s end.  Once a thriving plantation town, some of its early sugarcane fields flourished in rich lava soils surrounding Hotel Hana-Maui, where huge sugar-boiling pots decorate manicured gardens and a winding footpath leads to a weathered Japanese cane workers’ cemetery high on a hillside bordering the property. Slippery with ironwood cones, this narrow trail continues downward to isolated Kaihalulu, Hana’s famed red sand beach below.   

Another pathway from our Sea Ranch cottage leads to town where we visit curio shops, cafes serving musuki, rice balls topped with seaweed and Spam…and renowned Hasagawa’s, stocking everything imaginable since 1910, including cuttlefish, dried shrimp snacks and packaged purple poi.

As night falls, raindrops batter our roof and lanai; soothing surf brings sleep. And at sunrise, delicate guava pinks wash the glistening landscape. Hiking to Fagan’s colossal cross above Hana launches our first morning. Puffing upslope for the best view in town with two locals, one gal tells us, “Until the mid-1940’s Hana bustled with two movie theaters, 15 different stores, three barbershops, a pool hall and several restaurants…and a population over 3500.”

“It’s different these days,” grins her friend. “…Only about 700 of us now…mostly workin’ down at the hotel.”

Later at Kahanu Botanical Garden, we glimpse at how these lush lands looked in old Hawaii. Especially interesting is its large display of “canoe plants” brought by early Polynesians: sugar cane, banana, sweet potato, taro, turmeric and paper mulberry to make tapa cloth.

Also an archaeological site, a hala forest borders an enormous lava rock temple, the largest in Hawaii.  Hale O Pi’ilani Heiau served as command post for the 16th-century dynasty of chiefs who built roads and brought prosperity to Maui. In afternoon mists, we visualize lookouts stationed atop, watching for invading canoes. Scurrying from a sudden shower, we shelter in a fishing cottage where early document the restoration of this sacred 5-story temple.   

Toward town, a sign announces Kaeleku Caverns, Hana’s Lava Tube.  With safety helmets properly perched, we grip gigantic flashlights and enter an underground world where molten rock from 1000 years ago cooled into striking stalactites and stalagmites. Some remarkable lava-scapes resemble thick chocolate frosting, others glisten golden yellow.

At nearby Waianapanapa State Park’s black sand beach, we investigate cave pools named for a chiefess murdered there by her husband. Every spring, millions of red shrimp appear, said to turn red as testimony to the tragedy. Undaunted, my hubby swims in the crystal waters, finding tiny colored fish…but no shrimp.

At Hana’s Cultural Center we visit a historic courthouse still in use, old jail, Hawaiian Village with traditional thatched hales and museum. Black and white document the tsunami that wiped out much of Hana on April 1, 1946.

The next day a ribbon of road leads us to remote Kipahulu Visitor Center. Here on Haleakala’s eastern edge we hike to Oheo Gulch Pools where waterfalls have carved pools into volcanic rock. Usually popular for swimming, raging torrents from heavy overnight rains make them unsafe, so we trek upstream on the Pipiwai Trail.

Passing 56-meter Makahiko Falls, we meander through ancient taro farms and guava orchards. Ghostly breezes whisper through a giant bamboo forest, dry stems crack and clatter like bleached bones. Reaching spectacular 121-meter Waimoku Falls, we sprawl on surrounding rocks and bask in rugged splendor.

On the way back we dally along the white sandy crescent at Hamoa Beach, voted one of Hawaii's favorites.    Hikes, beaches, gardens and compelling ruins have propelled us into the grace of old Hawaii…sadly lost to those who visit Hana for only a few hours…

When You Go:

www.visitmaui.com Maui Visitor’s Bureau provides details regarding events, activities and cultural experiences for all tastes.

www.hotelhanamaui.com Paul Fagan established this gracious resort, Maui’s first…and a   favored retreat for over 60 years.