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Rhone Ranger wines- "Ex-Zaca-ly"

by Darryl Beeson

Zaca Mesa is a Santa Ynez Valley estate winery dedicated to the grapes of Rhône. Since 1972, they have crafted powerful wines from terroir-driven grapes grown in their 240 acres of distinctive vineyards, with concentrated character and proven quality. Zaca Mesa is all about focus. By the early 1990’s, they had correctly determined that the grape varieties of the Rhône Valley of France (especially Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Viognier, and Roussanne) grow best in their specific vineyards.

The Zaca Mesa Syrah 2003 ($22.00) offers deep, concentrated blackberry, cassis and their signature sage spice and pepper aromas. "A traditional pairing for this wine is a leg of lamb marinated in rosemary and garlic. Peppercorn steak or mushroom risotto would work incredibly well," says general manager/CEO  Brook Williams. Their Syrah has been served by President Clinton to French President Chirac at the White House.

The Zaca Mesa "Z Cuvee" 2004 ($18.00) is a precise blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah and Cinsaut, inspired by the classic Chateauneuf-de-Pape recipe. Grenache is said to add powerful raspberry flavors. Mourvèdre brings tannic nuances with blueberry. Syrah can be dark plum, pepper and/or leather. Also included is a touch of Cinsaut’s Southern France earthiness. "These layers of flavor enable this wine to pair with a wide variety of foods from mushroom pizza to rosemary crusted leg of lamb," suggests winemaker Clay Brock.

The Zaca Mesa Viognier 2006 ($18.00) reveals a classic peach blossom nose. Hinting of sweetness, the sip is full-bodied, tart with citrus and is dry through the complex finish. There is no oak in the flavor profile and th complexities stand forward. Viognier is the crucial white grape of the Northern Rhone and is often blended with red varietals resulting in even more powerful red wines. Go figure? "A natural pairing would be Thai chicken, ahi tuna or Szechuan prawns," according to Brock..

The Zaca Mesa Roussanne 2005 ($25.00) is juicy and intense, capturing the mineral terroir of Santa Ynez. There are interesting hints of oak toastiness. "Aromas of apricots, figs, honey and spice fill the glass," boasts the winemaker, Brock. "A lingering finish has a touch of minerality, a signature characteristic...Enjoy with grilled halibut, lobster risotto or rosemary roasted chicken."

The Zaca Mesa Chardonnay 2005 ($18.00) captures ripe pear and lemon crispness, tropical fruit flavors that are framed in toasty oak from ten months of barrel aging. This chardonnay shows restraint and balance. It is full-bodied and classic in styling. "This wine will pair well with butternut squash risotto or grilled salmon." suggests winery president Brook Williams.

There is also a perfect rose produced in very limited supply. The "Z Gris" is crafted in the dry French tradition, priced at $15. This wine can work with almost any cuisine, or it can be simply sipped out on the deck.

A pioneer in the Santa Barbara County, Zaca Mesa was a training ground for wine making genius. The legendary Ken Brown was their first winemaker, later starting Byron in Santa Maria Valley. Jim Clendenen and Bob Lindquist worked at Zaca Mesa before venturing out on their own to start Au Bon Climat and Qupé, respectively. Other alumni include Lane Tanner, Daniel Gehrs, Chuck Carlson of Curtis, and Adam Tolmach of Ojai.

Zaca Mesa was one of the first wineries in Santa Barbara County after prohibition. As the vineyard grew and respectable production began, a winery was built on the estate in 1978. Learn more at www.zacamesa.com.

Darryl Beeson teaches and certifies sommeliers for www.internationalsommelier.com. Says writer Roy Blount, Jr., "Wine is tough, but I know Darryl can do it."

 

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