Celebrating all that’s Irish in New York

by Colette Connolly

New York City is the place to be in March, especially around the 17th when the city pulls out all the stops to celebrate Ireland’s patron saint, St. Patrick, by hosting the world’s largest St. Patrick’s Day Parade.

A veritable sea of green, white and gold is evident throughout the city that day, with marchers and revelers sporting shamrocks, pins, sashes, and anything else that represents Ireland’s national colors.

New York City, which boasts the largest population of Irish Americans in the nation, hosted its first parade in 1761, which started out in downtown Manhattan. Participants from various parishes and Irish organizations marched to the Old St. Patrick’s Cathedral (located at Mott and Prince Streets) and later dispersed to the local pubs.

As New York City expanded uptown, so did the parade, with marchers starting off at 42nd Street, walking past the new St. Patrick’s Cathedral located at Fifth Avenue and 50th Street, and heading north to the end of the parade at 86th Street.

Sponsored by the Ancient Order of Hibernians, the modern-day parade includes members of various Irish societies from New York and around the country, including several from Ireland. The Fighting 69th Infantry Regiment has also been an integral part of the celebration, marching at the head of the parade for at least 150 years. This year’s grand marshal is New York City Police Commissioner Raymond W. Kelly.

If you’re interested in attending the parade, which begins at 11 a.m., be sure to get to the city early. To get a bird’s eye view, plan on standing on Fifth Avenue toward the north end of the parade route and away from the heavily trafficked shopping areas in midtown Manhattan. You could also try sitting on the upper steps of the Metropolitan Museum of Art to catch a close-up of the marchers turning east on 86th Street.

If you’ve got the time, be sure to visit St. Patrick’s Cathedral, which officially opened its door in 1879. The cathedral, which is located on Fifth Avenue between 50th and 51st streets in midtown Manhattan, was designed in the Gothic revival style by James Renwick, Jr.

The white marble building contains some notable features, including the great rose window at the front of the cathedral, one of artist Charles Connick’s major works; the St. Michael and St. Louis altars, designed by Tiffany and Company; and a pietá that is three times larger than Michaelangelo’s Pietá in Rome.

If you don’t mind walking, and you’re interested in learning more about the former “Little Ireland” neighborhood between New York’s City Hall and Houston Street, you might want to check out the “St. Patrick’s Weekend Irish New York” walking tour on March 13 at 11 a.m., which is provided by the popular Big Onion Walking Tours company.

Stops include the founding site of the Ancient Order of Hibernians; the childhood home of Al Smith, New York State’s first Irish-American governor; the notorious Five Points neighborhood; and sites associated with Tammany Hall, Thomas Addis Emmet, the Irish-born New York State Attorney General (also elder brother of the slain nationalist Robert Emmet) , and others. Tours meet in front of St. Paul’s Chapel on Broadway, between Fulton and Vesey streets.  No reservations are necessary. Tickets are $15 for adults; $12 for seniors, members of the military and full-time students.

There are lots of great Irish pubs in New York (too many to include here). Below are some of the most popular ones with tourists:

• McSorley’s Ale House located at 15 East 7th Street. This saloon is the oldest continuously operated Irish pub in the city (147 years old), which brews its own beer and serves excellent pub food, too. Take note of its legendary backroom where ale was served during the Prohibition years.

• Connolly’s Pub & Restaurant, with locations on 121 West 45th Street, 44 West 54th Street and 14 East 47th Street, is one of New York’s liveliest bars. Its 45th Street pub is the home of Black 47, one of New York’s best-loved bar bands. On March 13, 14 and 15, the Wolfe Tones will perform at the Connolly’s Times Square location. For tickets, call (212) 597-5126. 

• P.D. Hurley’s Pub & Restaurant, located at 174 West 72nd Street, offers 16 different drafts that compliment the traditional Irish menu. It’s a regular stopping-off point for bagpipers who are thirsty from marching.

• Paddy McGuire's Ale House, located at 237 Third Avenue between 19th and 20th Streets, has 16 beers on tap. The doors of the pub have been imported from Ireland, giving it an authentic touch.

One show you won’t want to miss is the Riverdance 15th Anniversary Farewell Tour, which is playing in Radio City Music Hall for the last time. The show will take place March 17-21. To purchase tickets, visit ticketmaster.com. If an Irish play is on your list, Candida by George Bernard Shaw, and playing at The Irish Repertory Theatre at 132 West 22nd Street from Feb. 24 through April 18, is a must-see.

For a complete Irish experience, stay at Fitzpatrick’s Hotel, which now has two locations, one on 141 East 44th Street, and the other beside Grand Central station on 42nd Street and Lexington Avenue. Call 212-351-6800 for reservations.

Photo Credits: Jim Henderson, David Shankbone (Wikipedia.com); St. Patrick’s Day Parade Committee; Fitzpatrick’s Hotels.

Colette Connolly is a freelance writer living in the New York area. She is originally from Ireland.