Tasting the wines of Navarra

by Lucy Komisar

I went to a Navarra wine tasting in New York the other day. Navarra is northeast of Madrid, stretching from the Pyrenees on the north to the River Ebro on the south. The capital is Pamplona, famous for the running of the bulls. It's 200 miles from Madrid.

Let me start by saying that I can't tell you which wines smelled like orange trees or tasted like mushrooms. Or is it the other way around? All I can tell you is which of these Spanish wines –most are reds – were outstanding. To me, that means that they have real flavor, they just don't say "I'm a red." Here are some wines whose tastes are memorable.

Though memories can't be as distant as the beginnings of Navarra wines, which date to before the Roman occupation.

Note that the traditional varieties include Tempranillo and Garnacha. I especially liked several wines labeled "Crianza," which means it spends a longer time in the oak barrels.

Bodegas Alzania, Alzania 21 del 10 100% Syrah, Vintage 2005/2006. Price $20+. U.S. agent www.bonvivantimports.com. 

Bodegas Camilo Castilla, Beltán Blanco Dulce Moscatel, 100% Moscatel, sweet white wine. www.bodegascamilocastilla.com, $15-$20.

Bodegas Castillo de Monjardín, Monjadin Crianza, Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot Blend, 2005, $10-$15; Monjardin Deyo, Merlot, 2005, $15-$10. www.monjardin.es ; U.S. agent www.winebow.com.

Bodega Inurrieta, Inurrieta Norte, Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot, 2006, $5-$10. www.bodegainurrieta.com. U.S. agent jonaltes@gmail.com.

Bodegas Ochoa, Ochoa Tempranillo 2006, Tempranillo, 2006, $10-$15. www.bodegasochoa.com. U.S. agent www.frontierwineimportsncom.

Bodega Otazu – Gabarbide, Otazu Crianza, Tempranillo, Merlot & Cabernet S. 2006, $10-$15. www.otazu.com; U.S. agent www.newageimporters.net.

Bodegas Pago de Larrainzar, Pago de Larrainzar, Merlot 50%, Cabernet 30%, Tempraillo 15% & Garnacha 55. 2006, $20+. Larrainzar, Tempranillo 70%, Cabernet Sauvignon 11%, Merlot 17% & Garnacha 2%. 2007. $15-20. www.Pagodelarrainzar.com.  U.S. agent www.broadbent.com.

Bodegas Príncipe de Viana, Príncipe de Viana 1423 Rserva 2004, 75% Tempranillo, 10% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon & 5% Garnacha, 2004. $20+. www.principedeviana.com.  (There really was a prince there in 1423.)

Bodega de Sarría, Señorío de Sarría Viñedo no. 7 Graciano. 100% Graciano, 2005. $15-$20. www.bodegasdesarria.com.  U.S. agent www.spainwinecollection@msn.com.

For more Information  www.navarragastronomy.com