Discovering Washington County, Texas

by Jo Ann Holt

I recently spent a few days in Washington County, visiting the birthplace of the Republic of Texas where delegates signed the Texas Declaration of Independence in March of 1836 at Washington on the Brazos, and other historic or culturally significant sites.  Accompanied by other writers from different areas of the U.S., by the end of our travels in Washington County I was bursting with even more “Native Texan” pride then before. 

I’ve always loved Texas history, especially the Alamo and San Jacinto stories, but I realized on this trip that I had skipped over some of our state’s best lore.  Not to mention scenery!  I learned so much on this short trip, which included a side trip to College Station to visit the George Bush Library, that I hope to return as soon as possible, this time taking my history-loving husband along.  Although he’s teaching American History at Mountain View College, and has taught Texas History in the past, I think he will be as thrilled as I was to find how much of our history happened in this southeastern portion of the state.

We started our trip at Texas Ranch Experience, a delightful true Cowboy experience with special appeal  for the folks from New York and other parts of the country who want to see horses and cows when they visit Texas.  Not long after arriving at the ranch, several of us were riding horses with John Elick, an attorney and former Rodeo champion who owns the 1800-acre ranch with his wife Taunia.  That night we were treated to a terrific BBQ and steak feast in their big party barn, and later watched some of the cowboys show us how to ride and rope. 

This was far more than just a ranch experience, since Taunia Elick has bought and refurbished a number of historic houses on the property.  It’s like taking a step back into the late 1800s to stay in one of these charmingly decorated, authentic old houses, while all the modern conveniences (indoor plumbing, heat and air and electricity) make it much more comfortable.   The ranch is located in Chappell Hill, and can entertain any size group from a wedding party (the wedding can take place in the renovated old church) to a family reunion to larger corporate events.  The Elicks practice true Texas hospitality, the kind that makes you want to go back again, real soon.

One of the highlights of the trip was visiting Independence Hall, where Texans made their formal declaration of independence from Mexico.  A very knowledgeable guide conducts daily tours of the hall, and visitors are also able to walk down historic Ferry Street, where Davy Crockett and other legendary heroes made their way into Texas after crossing the ferry.  A scenic overview overlooks the spot where the Brazos and Navasota Rivers combine. 

This Birthplace of Texas at Washington-on-the-Brazos will be the site of a free two-day festival February 26-27, celebrating the 175th anniversary of the signing of the Texas Declaration of Independence. That Saturday, the Star of the Republic Museum will open a new exhibit entitled "Fifty-nine for Freedom." On March 2, 1836, as Santa Anna was approaching San Antonio, the delegates at Washington-on-the-Brazos declared: “Our political connection with the Mexican nation has now forever ended, and the people of Texas do now constitute a free and independent republic.” By signing this Declaration, these men were signing their own death warrants, jeopardizing their property, and the lives of their families. "Fifty-nine for Freedom" will explore the life and contributions of each delegate with numerous artifacts and documents owned or created by many of the 59 signers.

Sunday afternoon Sen. Kay Bailey Hutchison will headline a special program at the amphitheater, where direct descendants of the 59 declaration signers will be recognized during a dramatic roll call of the signers’ names, followed by a Texas-sized birthday cake served to the audience and a performance of the “Convention of 1836” by the Navasota Theater Alliance.  Washington-on-the-Brazos State Historic Site, located between Brenham and Navasota, features three attractions that are open year round – Independence Hall, the Star of the Republic Museum, and Barrington Living History Farm. All admission fees will be waived during the celebration weekend.

A trip to the Star of Texas Museum is even more educational when followed by a visit to the Barrington Living History Farm, where visitors can participate in activities of an 1850-era cotton farm as costumed interpreters explain how to drive oxen, help plant and harvest crops, and learn how to spin or make soap.  This living history farm is a representation of the farmstead of Dr. Anson Jones, last President of the Republic of Texas.  The farmstead raises heirloom crops and historic breeds of cotton, corn, Pineywood cattle and Osabow hogs.  Jones’ original farmhouse, built in 1844, was moved to the Washington-on-the-Brazos State Historic Site during the Texas Centennial Celebration in 1936. 

For more contemporary history, visitors will enjoy the George Bush Presidential Library in nearby College Station, featuring more than 80,000 objects in its permanent collection and giving a unique look at the life and career of our 41st president, George Herbert Walker Bush.  Museum workers say the former President and his wife, Barbara, are frequent visitors to the museum.  After a recent $8.3M renovation to the main exhibit, the 21,000 square foot library and museum now features a Situation Room where visitors can try their hand at making presidential decisions, and an Oval Office replica that visitors can actually walk into and have their photo made as they occupy the “Seat of Power.”  

After lunch at R Place, a quaint piece of Texana housed in a rustic old grocery store in Washington (Texas that is) serving great BBQ and all the fixings complete with pie topped with a scoop of Blue Bell vanilla ice cream, we were taken to our various accommodations near Brenham.  Mine were in an authentically restored log cabin in a scenic wooded area that is part of the Lonesome Dove Bed and Breakfast in Burton, owned by John and Gay Barnette, another couple who practice genuine southwestern hospitality.  Gay left coffee, juice, and bowls of fruit, home-made granola, cereals and delicious breads for my breakfast each morning.  While I wasn’t able to spend as much time walking in the woods and exploring the property as I would have liked, I hope to go back with my husband one day soon.   The secluded cabin would make a great romantic getaway. 

That afternoon we toured the legendary Blue Bell Creameries in Brenham, the family-owned plant that has been making my favorite ice cream since long before I was born.  The Brenham Creamery Company opened in 1907, and has grown into one of the largest employers in Washington County and one of the top ice cream companies in the south (now distributed in Texas, Oklahoma, Louisiana, Kansas, Alabama, Mississippi, Arkansas, Georgia, North Carolina, South Carolina, Kentucky, Tennessee and Arizona).  Paul Kruse, a descendant of first company manager E. F. Kruse and the current C.E.O., personally welcomed us into the corporate headquarters, and we were taken on a tour of the factory.  Workers in some areas had to wear heavy coats, hats, scarves and gloves as the temperatures plunged below freezing, so we didn’t linger too long in those areas.

 Blue Bell produces over 250 different products, which include a rotating menu of 45 different flavors of ice cream with brand new flavors created each year.  About 150,000 visitors tour the Blue Bell plant in Brenham, and end their tour in the Visitors Center with a hand-dipped ice cream or frozen treat of their choice in the ice cream parlor followed by browsing the Blue Bell Country Store.  People who are lucky enough to live in Brenham must have a difficult time staying slim, since there are so many great cooks—many of German heritage since Washington County’s earliest settlers were German farmers—and since every place in town serves Blue Bell ice cream. 

Other highlights of my recent visit to Brenham included a tour of the Antique Rose Emporium, an eight-acre display garden that features hundreds of varieties of antique roses plus native plants and a wildflower meadow.  Most of the roses on display are “lost” or forgotten roses once popular in early Texas gardens that have been rescued by Rose Rustlers and restored to new life at the rose emporium, which is a popular mail-order nursery. 

Another floral wonderland was discovered at Ellison’s Greenhouses, one of the largest family-owned nurseries in Texas especially known for its poinsettias.  Their signature Texas-sized poinsettias stand as tall as six feet, and are shipped all over the nation.  Visitors are also allowed to pick their own tomatoes off the vines.  Several other aromatic adventures included a stop by Chappell Hill Lavender Farm with over 3,000 lush lavender plants and a breathtaking view plus lavender lemonade on tap in the Gazebo and hand-made products available for purchase.  We also visited Lavande, an elegant retreat reminiscent of the French countryside where an olive and lavender farm features personalized products like seasoning rubs, sugars, soaps, oils and more.

While we enjoyed visiting all the scenic wonders, historic sites, antique stores, museums and art galleries, and renovated theaters like the planned restoration of the 1925-era Simon Theater in downtown Brenham, the real highlight of the trip to Washington County was the food. From gourmet delicacies to Texas down-home BBQ and heavenly pies and pastries, Washington County has it all.  This is probably not the place to go when you start a new diet, unless you have much stronger will power than I do.  Many of the local bed and breakfasts, such as the Southern Rose Ranch Bed & Breakfast in Chappell Hill (home of the “Oreo Cows” as the Belted Galloway Cows are called) are renowned for their gourmet food.  

The Funky Art Café, housed in a historic 1916 Blacksmith Building in downtown Brenham, features a delicious gourmet menu in an eclectic setting, including works by local artists.  Dinner at Royers Round Top Café, a Texas institution serving gourmet comfort food since 1987, was a special treat featuring quail, steak and great desserts.  Bud “the Pieman” Royer ships thousands of his pies to every state in the country through their mail order website.

A favorite lunch spot for locals and tourists alike is Must Be Heaven, a quaint restaurant in downtown Brenham that features soups, salads, sandwiches and absolutely delectable homemade pies.  I actually felt guilty enjoying a slice of chocolate meringue pie with my “healthy” chicken salad sandwich on whole-grain bread, but not because of the calories.  My husband, who couldn’t be with me on the trip to Brenham, loves homemade meringue pie “like his mother used to make,” and I felt like I was wrong to enjoy that pie when he couldn’t.  But on our next trip to Galveston, we detoured several hours out of the way to drive to Brenham and have lunch at Must Be Heaven, picking up a coconut cream pie (their top seller) and a chocolate pie to take with us. 

We’re also planning a trip there this spring when we’ve heard the bluebells and other wildflowers are abundant and beautiful.  Brenham has now become our favorite destination for pies, Bluebell Ice Cream and bluebonnets.  

Websites: www.birthplaceoftexas.com;  www.starmuseum.org; www.bluebell.com; www.brenhamtexas.com;  www.texasranchlife.com;  www.lonesomedovebedandbreakfast.com.