Medieval Dubrovnik
a living museum of the near and distant past

by Lucy Komisar

We were visiting the 14th-century Franciscan Monastery when our guide Maja Milović turned to a corner that seemed out of place in the beautiful Gothic-Romanesque stone building. A small table displayed what appeared to be used ordinance. On the wall, a plaque said: "A missile shot, 6th December 1991." In 1991 and 92, more than 2,000 Serb bombs and missiles bombarded Dubrovnik. The monuments were targeted.

Dubrovnik is a living museum, with an Old Town of pale limestone buildings and narrow streets surrounded by medieval fortress walls. But the history is not only of a millennium past. When you walk along the cobbled streets of the old city, you are reminded of what happened to this extraordinary place in the 1990s when war engulfed the Balkans. Parts were destroyed by Serbian bombs, and you can still see the bullet holes in old buildings. Our passionate guide, Maja, made it clear that the city will never forget.

Fortunately, there's been a brilliant restoration. The structures of the Old Town, a magnet for visitors, go back as much as a thousand years and tell the history of Byzantine, Venetian, and independent rule. The evening we arrived, we visited the 15th-century Rector's Palace. The Rector was the head of government selected every month by the nobles of the Republic of Ragusa. We found ourselves in the atrium, a space enclosed by white stone walls with high archways and a stone stair case leading to a colonnaded upper floor. Upstairs over the door to the Palace of the Great Council, there is an inscription in Latin: "Obliti privatorium publica curate," or "Forget personal, worry about public matters." A good message to put on our own legislative halls!

There we heard a charming chamber music concert featuring modern sounds created by Croatian composer, Srećko Bradić, as the Cantus Ensemble presented the first performance of his flute concerto. They also played pieces by Hindemith and Debussy. The concert was part of the annual summer festival that runs in July and August and is held in this and other historic buildings.

Afterwards, we wandered about the Old Town and stopped for a drink at a small square next to the Cathedral. It was filled with tables set up for visitors to enjoy casual drinks and jazz. A crooner channeled Sinatra, backed up by piano, bass and drums. A lady belted out jazz classics. We bought a CD (Nick Bresco, "Tribute to Frank Sinatra") and then headed back to our hotel, a 10-minute walk along the road fronting the sea.

We were staying at the Excelsior, a gorgeous five-star white limestone hotel decorated in soft colors of brown and beige set off by green plants. The interior designer was Renata Štrok, who mixed 1930s and 1950s styles and chose art work by important Croatian painters. Our room was a suite; on the balcony that edged both rooms were beige raffia chaises and chairs with white cushions.

From the balcony and through the windows – even the large windows in the bathroom – we could see the pale ochre and red roofs of the old city and its reflection on the glistening waters as if it were a mirage. Directly out the window I saw a dozen colorful red, green and yellow double kayaks that had set out from town to explore the coast. 

In the morning, breakfast was on a balcony set up with brown straw chairs, and, again the stunning view of the old city -- the ramparts, the harbor, the red roofs and castle turrets, the blue sea. (The breakfast room turned into a main restaurant for lunch and dinner.) Sitting there made us hungry to go back to the old city. It was an easy walk.

I liked the Franciscan monastery we visited with Maja for its Romanesque cloister with pieces of old frescoes. Other highlights of our morning of tour were the Cathedral and the fountain of Onofrio, The Cathedral was built by two Roman architects after the earthquake of 1667. Make sure to see The Assumption by Titian at the main alter.  (The Cathedral is also called the Church of the Assumption.) The Great Well of Onofrio was constructed in the 15th century by the Neapolitan architect Onofrio de la Cava who designed the city's water supply system. He also designed the Rector's Palace. Nice to see that he got credit!

Then, climbing up stairs near the fountain, we repaired to a lunch overlooking the sea. The outdoor restaurant was Dubrovka, one of several on that plaza, and it had a view of the ethereal thick black and gray stone walls that seemed to march into the water.

Then it was time to do as other visitors do in the afternoon: go to the beach, swim, surf, parasail, kayak, scuba and snorkel. Well, we did nothing so athletic. The Excelsior has a huge swimming pool, and also a kids' pool and hot tub and a terrace for sunning and forays into the sea. On the terrace, blue towels set off the white chaises and umbrellas. At one end were a few tables of an outdoor café. And there's that view again. We preferred to rest on the chaises and swim off the hotel's stone jetty that had handrails that let you down into water roped off with buoyant yellow balls.

Our most memorable evening was dinner at the Excelsior's Prora Beach restaurant. The white covered tables and coffee-hued raffia chairs are set out on the stone terrace at the edge of the sea, so close to the water that you get the sense that you are alone surrounded by sea. As the dusk falls, tall candles sticks are lit at the water's edge and the lights in the old city go on, making the view magical. Water laps softly on the rocks. The tables are distant from each other, giving a sense of intimacy. The food was delectable, including octopus Carpaccio with basil leaves and balsamic sauces, and a succulent fish soup.

Another afternoon, we climbed around the narrow streets. Every staircase seemed to have a restaurant. We got a sense of people living today. People do live in the old town. Maja does.

And then to get a better view, we toured the 10th century defensive ramparts that encircle the town. The walls are more than 6,000 feet long and at some places 20 feet wide. It provided perfect views of where we had walked before, places such as the main street with the Bell Tower at one the end.

As we trudged along the ramparts, we gazed at the sea and boat harbor, stone battlements, the beige and brown stone buildings topped with red tile roofs, and occasional church domes and steeples. It was hard to think these structures had been battle targets. The excellent restoration of Dubrovnik was funded by the Croatian government, UNESCO, the American Society of Travel Agents, and other donors.

That evening we did what we often do at seaside places – take a sunset cruise. The vessel was the burnished replica of a 16th century wooden carrack. The 2 ½ hour trip run by Karaka went around Lokrum Island, opposite Dubrovnik, and along the coast. As the sun set, we listened to Dalmatian music, sipped wine and champagne, dined on excellently prepared grilled steak, chicken, squid, vegetables and wine. The light of the moon played on the water

We could see the high walls, the Cathedral and a bit further on the red tile-roofed houses where Dubrovnik residents live. The city outside the old town seemed quite normal. There was hardly a clue of the bombing 20 years ago. When we arrived back, the lights were sparkling brilliantly in the old port.

If you go

DK Eyewitness Travel Croatia. I love this book, which focuses on every interesting place town by town, clearly, with photos and graphics and information about opening hours and prices.

 $25. www.Traveldk.com

Insight Pocket Guide for a mini where-to-go to carry along when a big book is too heavy. www.insightguides.com/

Dubrovnik Airport
www.airport-dubrovnik.hr/
Flights connect to major European cities.

Dubrovnik Tourist Board
www.visit.dubrovnik.hr/eng/ 

Excelsior Hotel & Spa *****
Frana Supila 12, 20000 Dubrovnik
385 (0)20 353 353
Fax: 385 (0)20 353 295
info@hotel-excelsior.hr
Reservations
385 (0)20 430 830
Fax: 385 (0)20 430 835
reservations@alh.hr
www.hotel-excelsior.hr
158 rooms
Pools, Jacuzzi, saunas, Turkish bath, fitness center, spa|
Wifi

Franciscan Monastery
Placa 2
(0)20 321 410
summer 9am to 6pm, winter by appt

Rector's Palace
Knezev Dvor 1
(0)20 323-904
Includes Museum of Dubrovnik
9am to 6pm summer; 9am to 2pm.

Dubrovnik Summer Festival
www.dubrovnik-festival.hr/dubrovnik-summer-festival
info@dubrovnik-festival.hr
385 (0) 20 326 100

CathedralKneza
 Mamjana Jude
Apr-Oct 8am to 5pm, Mon to Sat; 11am to 5pm Sun.
Shorter hours off-season.

The Wall
(0)20 324 641
Summer 9am to 7pm, winter 10am to 3pm.
Enter near the Franciscan monastery in the square behind Pile Gate.

Karaka cruises
booking@karaka.info
www.karaka.info
385 (0)91 358-1888 mobile.
7:30pm to 10pm
Tickets at Tourist Office near Pile Gate.
Boarding at the old port.
Sunset & Dinner Cruise 299 kn
45 min cruise 75 kn

Photos by Lucy Komisar