Carnaval in Mexico

Looking for a unique Carnaval experience close to home with a foreign feel? Search no further than our southern neighbor, México. Hosting an array of parades, parties, concerts, culinary festivals, cultural programs and beauty pageants, Mexican coastal cities offer mardi gras celebrations comparable to New Orleans and Rio de Janeiro.

Celebrated the week prior to Ash Wednesday, and normally lasting a little less than a week, Carnival in México has a long tradition dating back to the nineteenth century. Coming from the Latin word Carnavale meaning “goodbye to the flesh”, Carnival refers to the week before Lent (Cuaresma), where carefree abandonment and indulgence are encouraged.

Let it burn! Parades! Beauty Queens! And more burning?

Kick-off begins with the burning of El Mal Humor (Bad Mood), in which an effigy, usually modeled after an unpopular politician of the day, is hung and burned, followed by a flurry of confetti and fireworks. This gives commencement to nearly a week of festivities in some of Mexico’s most popular coastal cities, including Campeche, Mazatlán, Veracruz and Mérida, just to name a few.

Host cities celebrate all sorts of parades daily, depending on the local carnival’s theme, which differs from region to region. Parades display an array of floats, known as allegorical cars, decoratively inspired by Mexican scenery and normally featuring bright flowers and live entertainment. Some parades require an entrance fee, and visitors are advised to get tickets to the parade as soon as they arrive via the local tourist office or hotel.

No carnival is complete without pageantry. Included in the festivities are two major pageants: the crowning of the Reina del Carnaval (Carnival Queen); and the selection of the Rey del Carnaval (Carnival King), who may take on different names, including Rey Feo (Ugly King) and Rey de Alegría (King of Happiness), depending on the city. Hopefuls compete amongst a handful of contestants in a grand ceremony for the coveted titles, followed by a massive party, featuring performances by regional groups.
Winners are crowned by a local government official and earn the privilege of being part of the major parades, normally held on Sunday and Tuesday during Carnival week. To culminate the week of festivities, there is yet another symbolic burning. This time, it’s of “Juan Carnaval", another doll symbolizing all that is impure. The burning and burial of this character gives a fresh and new beginning to the period of Lent and the spring.

MAZATLAN – February 19-24

Mazatlán is home to the third-largest Carnival celebration in the world after those in New Orleans and Rio de Janeiro, and attracts more than 400,000 people each year. From February 19 - 24, thrill-seekers fill the malecón (ocean-side promenade) running along Olas Altas Beach downtown, singing and dancing along roving mariachi bands. You can also catch regional Sinaloenses bands with lots of brass, as well as rock groups that set up along the way.

Food lovers can enjoy two open-air culinary festivals, in the Zona Dorada (Golden Zone) and the Plaza Machado. Prominent dishes on hand include Mazatlán's famous pescado zarandeado (barbecued fish), camarones con mango (mango shrimp) and marlín ahumado (smoked marlin). After enjoying some fresh seafood, journey to the Olas Atlas port for a unique offshore fireworks presentation representing a mock naval battle, in commemoration of Mazatlán's 1864 victory over the French Navy, held on February 21.

In addition, the Mazatlán Carnival hosts a cultural program featuring regional art and literature competitions. Top prize is the prestigious Clemencia Isaura poetry award, a 68-year-old tradition that honors México’s best unpublished work. Along with all of the activities, there is an on-going fair with amusement park rides for all ages, running for about two weeks, as well as lots of handicrafts up for bargaining.

Dr. Rigoberto Lewis is an icon in the world of float-making in Mazatlán. Specializing in paper maché, Dr. Lewis has been designing floats for more than fifty years, recreating moments, eras and historical situations with great mastery and beauty. According to Dr. Lewis, “Carnival represents life”.

This year, the theme of the Mazatlán Carnival will be “Glory and Splendor,” celebrating the city’s contributions to attracting tourism to the region. For more information on Carnival in Mazatlán, visit www.carnavalmazatlan.com.mx.

VERACRUZ – February 17 - 25

Known for its Afro-Caribbean-influenced culture, the port city of Veracruz on the Gulf of Mexico hosts the second-largest Carnival in the country. Parade-goers can expect to see Draculas, drag queens and women in sparkling dresses dancing to the infectious Caribbean/Spanish rhythms along Miguel Avila Camacho Boulevard. Groups from neighboring villages dance in peacock and pheasant-feathered headdresses.

A must during Carnival in Veracruz is dancing! Visitors should not miss the chance to dance at the zócalo, or central square. Salsa, cumbia, reggae and marimba are popular, but Jarochos (people from Veracruz) hold a special place in their hearts for the music and dance known as danzón, which first arrived from Cuba in 1880. For live music, visit the zócalo and/or the malecón on February 21, featuring Mexican artists.

And when they aren't dancing, there’s nothing like sitting on the banks of the Jamapa River in the nearby town of Boca del Río and enjoying succulent grilled huachinango (red snapper), or a vuelve a la vida (Veracruz style seafood cocktail) at bargain prices.
For an updated schedule of the week-long festivities, visit www.veracruz-puerto.gob.mx/turismo/.

CAMPECHE – February 7-24

Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) in 1999, the walled city of Campeche on the Gulf of Mexico is home to the country’s oldest Carnival celebration. Dating back to 1825, the city offers some of the most traditional fanfare associated with Carnival.

The Concha Acústica, in Campeche’s picturesque neighborhood of San Román, plays host to some of the key activities during Carnival. Here, you can witness the burning of the Mal Humor as well as the numerous coronations that go along with the festivities.

For those wanting to get their feet wet in the festivities, there is a paint and water balloon war at noon on February 24. And later on in the day, you can dance to live music and take part in the toro petate, a simulated dance around a person dressed like a bull.

Children have an enormous role during a festive parade specifically for the little-ones, since 1942. Kids have the opportunity to dress up and parade with adults, adding a family feel to the otherwise adult activities, held on February 20 during Carnival.
Campeche serves up some of the best seafood selections in México. Some Local cuisine includes pan de cazón, a tortilla dish of baby shark topped with fried beans, onion and an herb called epazote. Another recommended delicacy is shrimp with coconut, normally served with apple sauce.
For further information, visit www.webcampeche.com.

MERIDA – February 18-25

The Yucatán Peninsula’s capital city of Mérida is one of the many cities that celebrate Carnival. Since 1980, the people of the Yucatán celebrate the marching of “El Jacarandoso,” a popular character who was once king of the Carnival and annually displays the most colorful and amusing costume. On Monday during Carnival week, the ladies don hand-embroidered dresses and the gentlemen sparkling white guayaberas, the dress shirts typical of the region.

Each day, a parade is celebrated with a different theme, including Happiness, Battle of the Flowers and Children’s Parade. The parade route starts at the Monument to the Flag on Paseo Montejo Street and ends at San Juan Park. Good places to view the parades are the Main Plaza and Paseo Montejo. All along the route, people dance in the streets to the music of the famous Mexican bands who grace the celebration.
For more information, visit www.merida.gob.mx/carnaval/.

Other important carnival destinations in Mexico include Ensenada, Baja California; Guaymas, along the Sea of Cortez in Sonora; Tepic, Nayarit; and Carnival in Chamula, Chiapas, said to be one of the most indigenous festivals in the country.

About the Mexico Tourism Board

The México Tourism Board (MTB) brings together the resources of federal and state governments, municipalities and private companies to promote México's tourism attractions and destinations internationally. Created in 1999, the MTB is México’s tourism promotion agency, and its participants include members of both the private and public sectors. The MTB has offices throughout North America, Europe, Japan and Latin America.

Edited By Dave Shultz