^TM

Eating in Seattle

By Carole Kotkin

The soul of Seattle, Washington, has traditionally been depicted by iconic images of rain, slate skies, and coffee shops. But anyone who likes food and wine should also envision wild salmon, cherries, apples, and bottles of Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Syrah wines. When it comes to eating, Northwesterners are partial to the bounty of their water: salmon, Dungeness crab, and of course, the strange and wonderful huge geoduck clam (averaging around 3 pounds). The diversity and quality of the Northwest’s seafood, produce, grains, cheeses, meats, and fowl are unsurpassed in America. Each season is marked by the emergence of the regions fine products. Spring is noted for asparagus, sweet peas, shrimp halibut and rhubarb.  Summer is awash with salmon, scallops, Dungeness crab; fresh herbs, berries and other fruits. Fall in the Northwest is a time of plentiful harvest with wild mushrooms, apples, leafy greens and chili peppers. Winter features mussels and oysters at their peak, lentils, smoked fish and aged cheeses. Seattle’s restaurants are rich with Asian influences and the combination of Northwestern ingredients and Asian flavors usually proves delicious. While Asian cuisine is prominent in the city, nearly every country of the globe is well represented on Seattle’s menus. The local appreciation of fine dining along with the huge influx of dotcom money in the late 90’s lured excellent chefs and restaurants to town.

With an estimated population of more than 570,000 people, Seattle is the largest city in the Pacific Northwest. Situated on hills and bounded by water, Seattle’s streets are perfect for visitors to stroll through on an afternoon. No wonder stopping for a latte is a favorite pastime. Seattle didn’t invent coffee, but Starbucks started here and there is one on practically every corner in the city.  The proximity to the Cascade and Oympic Mountains and Mt. Ranier, St. Helens and Baker make skiing and hiking popular activities. Although it’s a good idea to pack an umbrella, Seattle averages less rainfall per year than New York City. Seattle has a temperate climate with winter days hovering around 50 degrees and around 75 in the summer. Two industrial giants—Boeing and Microsoft—provide the industrial strength of Seattle. Besides being a city of serious foodies, wine lovers, and passionate coffee drinkers, it’s also home to many innovative cultural institutions.  In addition to a world-class symphony, art museums, and ballet and opera companies, Seattle has the third-highest number of equity theaters (after New York and Chicago) in the US.

Washington state ranks second nationally in wine production after California. There is easy access by car to the wine country, whether it’s a quick afternoon jaunt to Woodinville in the Columbia Valley or a longer getaway to Walla Walla. The Columbia Valley, about 50 miles from Seattle, has just the right combination of soils and micro-climates for producing truly significant vintages. The terroir of this dramatic valley occupies the same northerly latitudes as the great wine-growing regions of Bordeaux and Burgundy. Warm, sunny days and extra-long daylight hours during the growing season ensure sweet, fully ripened fruit, while cool nights preserve the crisp acids in the wines.  Yet, Seattle is not only the gateway to wine country but a wine destination itself, with terrific restaurants and wine bars that let visitors get a taste of the Columbia Valley without leaving the city. At some point every visitor ends up at Pike Place Market, site of the country’s oldest farmers’ market in continuous operation. It was organized in 1907 as a city council experiment with five farmers. Now, in addition to hundreds of local farmers, immigrant vendors from Europe and Asia have opened businesses; Italians started grocery stores; Japanese farmers sold produce; Greeks opened luncheonettes; bakeries opened, and fisherman brought their catch of the day to be sold. Stop by Dish D’Lish, a take-out food spot just west of entrance, owned by Seattle food whiz Kathy Casey and her husband John, for a taste of artichoke and roasted pepper salad, specialty condiments to take home, and Southern Comfort fruitcake. 

Dinner at Campagne is an elegant contrast to the Pike Place Market a half-block away. Campagne has the feel of a comfortable French country restaurant with food to match. Named “one of the country’s best chefs” by Esquire magazine; no visit to Seattle would be complete without a stop at one of Chef Tom Douglas’s four restaurants. After making his mark at Café Sport, he opened Dahlia Lounge, Etta’s Seafood and Palace Kitchen to become Seattle’s most celebrated chef.

Things to Do:

Seattle Art Museum, 100 University St., 206-654-3100

Frye Art Museum, 704 Terry Ave., 206-622-9250

Pioneer Square: Much of old Seattle was destroyed by the Great Fire of 1888. Today in Pioneer Square you can see many of the Victorian buildings that rose from the ashes. At night a lively bar scene with live jazz and by day boutique shopping.

Walk Along the Bay and visit the Seattle Aquarium, 206-386-4320.

Narrated one-hour boat tours are available through Argosy Cruises (Pier 55, Alaskan Way)

Space Needle:  The landmark tower left from the 1962 World’s Fair offers rides to the top.

Art galleries and museum featuring the art-glass sculpture of Dale Chihuly.

Cooking Classes at Kathy Casey Food Studios, 206-784-7840, www.kathycasey.com

Where to Stay:

Four Sisters Inn: 1221 First Avenue, 206-748-0973

This stylish well-appointed boutique hotel is right across the street from the Seattle Art Museum in the heart of downtown and is within walking distance of most of the sights. Guests enjoy private parking, in-room data ports and fireplaces, fitness facility and lap pool. 

Seattle Marriott Waterfront, 2100 Alaskan Way, 1-800-455-8364

Located on the downtown Seattle waterfront with views of Mt. Ranier, Elliott Bay and the Olympic Mountains. Each guest room features high-speed Internet access, feather pillows and “sleep well” beds. Indoor/outdoor pool, fitness center. Walking distance to all attractions.

Where to Eat:

Campagne, 86 Pine St., 206-728-2800, www.campagnerestaurant.com —The French-inspired food is fresh and vibrant in dishes like slow-roasted Muscovy duck rubbed with quatre-epices, watercress and potato galette. Downstairs, the recently expanded Café Campagne is less formal.

Etta’s Seafood, 2020 Western Ave.,206-443-6000—showcases the culinary flair of Chef Tom Douglas. From the classic fish and chips to live crab, lobster, pit-smoked salmon and Tom’s famous crab cakes. Located at the end of Pikes Place Market. PHOTO 5

Fish Club, Marriott Waterfront Hotel, 2100 Alaskan Way, 206-256-1040, www.marriott.com —upscale seafood restaurant featuring inspired Pacific Northwest cuisine by award winning Chef Todd English.

Dish D’Lish, 1505 Pike Place, 206-223-1848, www.kathycasey.com

Back to TravelLady Magazine