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Magical Lake ComoBy Lauren Lombardo
“Our terrace restaurant is still open for lunch.” “Great. Will you notify me when my driver has arrived, please?” “Certainly, Madame.”
The colorful red, blue and yellow sixteenth century designed walls of the cozy bar open up to a huge terrace, the restaurant, on the first floor overlooking the serene lake. I order Prosecco, the Italian sparkling wine with a lilt of vanilla. The waiter suggests freshly made tagliatelle noodles with porcini, the delicate aromatic wild mushrooms of the season in a light brandy sauce---heavenly. I imagined how elegantly I would live here in Como by lunch’s end. George Clooney kept weaving into my thoughts. I learned he had purchased a home on the Lake not long ago. I fantasized meeting him. He’s hands down the best looking hunk in movies since Cary Grant. I could handle him, I mused. My driver arrived in the latest model of BMW, shiny and black, swank beyond measure with cushy camel leather seats. “Ciao, Cara! Piacere conoscerle!” (“Hello, dear. Nice to meet you!”) greeted Raphael, a jolly man. We spent three hours visiting the top silk factories, who manufacture for the world’s high fashion designers; and the incredibly awesome Armani showroom factory at up to 70% off retail. Raphael and I became good friends quickly. I asked him if he had ever seen George Clooney here. He replied, “Don’t tell anyone, but I’m his personal chauffeur.” “You’re kidding me. I’ve been thinking about him all during my lunch. You must tell me what he’s like.” “Very friendly, a genuine nice man.” “Does he have a girlfriend that he brings here?” “I’ve never seen him with anyone.” “I wonder why? Well, I guess he comes here to relax and get away from the Hollywood madness.” Raphael took me back to my hotel. He waved to me good-bye the Italian way: Forearms up in a right angle, hands fisted towards the face and wave backwards, grabbing the inner palm three times---“Ciao, ciao-ciao-ciao!” It’s the most precious kids’-like gesture in the world! I had two more days with Raphael who took me to the finest manufacturers and designer boutiques in the area. He opened up doors for me that I could not have accomplished on my own. This was the start of a promising business relationship. He loved my idea for my new business---bringing Americans on group tours to shop at the wholesale fashion factories. Raphael and his wife own a transportation company with a fleet of Mercedes including a van that seats eight people. The perfect size for a group tour! “It’s wonderful here starting in April when all the flowers are in bloom,” said Raphael. “Yachts come from everywhere to experience Lake Como. Until September it’s very crowded….then it’s dead all winter.” I expressed to him my dream of moving here. He encouraged me, offering to find me a nice apartment so that I would avoid paying three times the rent to an expensive agency. Raphael has the connections. But it’s unreasonable --- a small flat for $2,500 per month with few modern conveniences. Charm only goes so far, as I reflected back to my three years in Paris in the 90’s. The flimsy kitchen fawcett flying off the sink --- an ensuing geyser that my landlord didn’t deem his responsibility to repair. Romance is best left to reverie, I guess. And the taxes in Italy are up to a whopping 30%! For such “luxury” items as clothing, cosmetics, electronics and appliances that we consider absolute necessities in America! We’re just not alive without them. Luxury? These items are our basic survival.
My last visit was Cernobbio to the most palatial hotel in the world, “Villa D’Este”. How could such radiant beauty exist in this world? An abundance of fine oil paintings, marble statues and a lacunar ceiling decorate the hotel along with immense mosaic marble floors, chandeliers and period antiques everywhere. Commissioned by Cardinal Gallio, under Pope Pius IV, Pellegrino Pellegrini built the Villa in 1568 naming it Garrovo after the mountain stream that flows into the lake. The style is pure Renaissance with huge arches and tall white Carrara marble columns and balustrade. In 1784, Marquis Bartolomeo Caldrara purchased the villa, squandering a fortune on wine, women and song.
In 1868, Empress Maria Fedorowna, the wife of a Russian czar, lived at Villa D’Este for two years. In 1873, the Villa became a hotel. In 1926, the Villa d’Este eighteen hole golf course was inaugurated seven miles from the hotel. No wonder such artists, poets and musicians have been beguiled to Villa D’Este and Lake Como. Names like Virgil, Shelley, Stendhal, Byron, Longfellow, Mark Twain; and Bellini, Rossini, Verdi, Liszt, Puccini. Then such movie stars as Greta Garbo, Bette Davis, Elizabeth Taylor, Clark Gable and Gary Cooper….. Lake Como, where beauty is quintessence. Its magic will certainly endure. Telephone:713-572-9675 email: llombardo3@hotmail.com |
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TM
Ahhh…Lake Como! Its magic will beguile you forever! I
arrived by train from Florence to sunny autumn weather. The taxi driver
flashed a gorgeous smile, “Buon giorno, Signora! Benvenuto a Como. Sei
Americana?” (“Hello, Madame. Welcome to Como – are you American?”). He was
drop dead handsome. Looked exactly like William Holden in his heyday. I
couldn’t believe he was driving a cab. Rolling along the grand boulevards,
a feast for the eyes. Exquisite Renaissance villas trimmed with cinnamon
swirled frescos framed by symmetric plane trees. On the horizon, luxuriant
green hills with every type of tree: firs, pines, cypresses, magnolias,
oaks hovering over the blue lake make me dream of living here. We arrive at
my hotel, "Albergo Terminus” across the street from the lake. It’s
divine…I’m stunned that I found it on the Internet. A sculptured lawn faces
the classical eighteenth century stone palace. I check in to a hospitable
front desk, while reluctantly bidding farewell to my cabbie. I’ll
probably never see him again… 
As the bellcaptain escorts me to my room I observe
elegant old marble floors, antiques, fine paintings, and high ceilings with
decorative balconies. It must have been a royal residence two centuries
ago. I claimed it as my own. My small but beautiful room has old world
décor with glistening silk fabric on the walls and bedspread in French blue
and gold. Charming! Until late that night, I’m awakened by the clanging
crash of 300 wine bottles dumped in the courtyard bin by the vinoteca
nearby. I guess they party hard here on a regular basis. I sadly realized
I hadn’t recovered from jet lag afterall since it took me forever to go back
to sleep.
Changing foreign currency at the Como Bank convinced
me. It’s standard for banks to take a 6% commission. And the gorgeous
Greek gods smile as they request it. Then you lose against the Euro. What
gloom! The only way to avoid the commission is the ATM machine, but I
wouldn’t be surprised of a “hidden” commission there either. The cramp in
my leg was worse after spending $15 for a small tube of muscle rub cream.
Over the weekend I ventured out to explore Lake Como’s
picturesque lakeside villages. Boats leave constantly throughout the day to
the various ports. The boatmen are dignified in their uniforms as they
greet you, then kindly escort you onto the dock. Bellagio was my first
stop. Impatiens and geranium gardens on the immaculate boardwalk; a fairy
tale tiny hill village with a hundred ancient miniature stone steps leading
you to an array of boutiques and restaurants clustered with ivy and wrought
iron lanterns. Pastel wedding cake villas with roccoco trimmings highlight
the shore.
My next port was Menaggio, a lovely town, bigger than
Bellagio with tall pink rhododendrons welcoming you. An inviting town
square faces the lake. Buildings in ochre, peach and terracotta frame
bustling sidewalk cafes with the church belltower overlooking it all. I
visited the opulent Grand Hotel Victoria, a splendid ochre palace with
gardens that meet its own private beach. A luminous foyer with silk brocade
furnishings from the Directoire led me to the outdoor veranda for lunch. I ate a scrumptious creamy velvety
veal tonnata with capers. 
In 1815, the Princess of Wales, Caroline, purchased the
estate. She lived virtually in exile since her husband, the future George
IV and her first cousin, repudiated her after their wedding. He married her
simply to pay off his debts. Then Princess Caroline, Queen of England,
changed Villa Garrrovo to “Villa D’Este.” With her genealogy from the House
of Brunswick and George IV from the House of Hanover, both originated from
Guelfo d”Este who left Germany for Italy in 1504. Thus the name,“Villa
d’Este.” Caroline adorned and embellished her residence for five years.
Lavish wild parties were her reputation. Her extravagance lead to her ruin.
She died heartbroken in 1821 on a trip to London after the King filed a
scandalous divorce action.