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The Story of Two Wineries
By Darryl Beeson
Becker Vineyards- Texas on the Wine Map
Located in the Texas Hill Country between
Fredericksburg and Stonewall, not far from the LBJ Ranch, Becker Vineyards
was established in 1992 by Richard and Bunny Becker. Ironically, the first
vineyard was planted on a site of native mustang grapes, prized by their
German neighbors and the frontier ancestors for winemaking. Later, the
Beckers planted a large field of lavender to capture something of the wine
country of Provence, France.
They produce a European inspired red called the Becker
Vineyards Claret, the first Texas wine to contain all five red Bordeaux
varietals. It was carefully matured in French and American oak barrels for
18 months. Rich and complex, there are essences of raspberries,
blackberries, cassis, chocolate and spice ($17).
In November of 2001, President Bush and President Putin
were served Becker Vineyards' Chardonnay Reserve and a Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon at The Crawford Summit in Texas. Subsequently, the Becker Viognier
and Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon have been served at White House dinners.
Becker Vineyards is located ten miles east of
Fredericksburg and three miles west of Stonewall, off Highway 290 on
Jenschke Lane. Call before visiting at 830-644-2681.
www.beckervineyards.com
Cooper Mountain- East Meets West
The Cooper Mountain "Five Elements" Old Vines Pinot
Gris 2001 ($19) benefits from an Eastern insight. "There are five seasons,
not four." says Cooper Mountain owner/founder, Dr. Robert Gross. "Spring,
summer, late summer, fall, then winter. This is more of an Eastern
philosophy that better reflects what the vine experiences." The five
elements in the wine's name are derived from the five season philosophy.
Late summer is when the complexities may develop. Late summer is when rain
may destroy everything before the harvest can be accomplished.
This is the only winery in the Northwest that produces
from all estate grown fruit that 100% certified Biodynamic and organic. They
also offer a chardonnay and a pinot blanc as additional white wine options.
Cooper Mountain offers a pinot noir for those that prefer a red wine.
Organic farming has been associated with geeky, tie-died results. The entire
wine industry has discovered that sustainable farming practices can result
in wine that just tastes better.
Only 150 cases are made of this white wine each year.
This wine exhibits a very special mineral component. The aroma is subtle and
refreshing. A sip offers crispness grounded in earthy, expansive flavors.
This is the most limited offering from Cooper Mountain, and certainly is
their finest pinot gris. Though hard to find, call the winery and they will
help you find a retail source.
If visiting the area, the tasting room is open every
day from 12-5pm (503-649-0027, closed January), situated about a half hour
southwest of Portland . The website has links to a map for directions to the
winery, plus many other things about elusive and tasty Cooper Mountain
wines.
www.coopermountainwine.com
Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine
values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion
on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or
secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee
sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for
numerous publications.
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