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Well-Seasoned at the Four SeasonsBy Liz Berger
And yes, the restaurant entryway art is actually of art gallery quality—a rare joy to find the expression of good taste both on the table and on the wall.
A variety of appetizers are outstanding—particularly the Roasted Corn-Ginger Chowder with Five-Spice Smoked Duck, which amusingly marries Texas with the Orient in a sultry pairing. Also sensational is the Black Angus Beef Carpaccio with Sweet Chili Bell Pepper relish, Cilantro Drizzle, and Roasted Garlic Herb Crostini. But let me not neglect the Soy Marinated Salmon Sashimi with Pickled Cucumber, Golden Beets, and Sesame Ponzu Dressing.
Domestic and foreign wine selections are numerous and varied, and the young persons in black were helpful and entertaining at every juncture, rendering excellent recommendations.
As one carries on courageously to the finish, the twelve desserts include a Cranberry Pear Tart with Honey Walnut Ice Cream, the Café on the Green Tiramisu, a Banana Tart Tatin with Vanilla and Chocolate Ice Cream, and a Daily Variation of Crème Brulee—the variation du jour that I sampled presented an exceptionally delicious and creamy interior. There were some witty mutterings among the staff regarding the restaurant’s “Laura Ashley image” of some years previous. I hasten to assure the reader that there is nothing at all quaintly countrified the Café on the Green at this time. The atmosphere is elegant, relaxed, and of-the-moment; the food is superb, and the experience is one that remains gracefully for all seasons. The Café on the Green |
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The Dallas Four Seasons Resort and Club, true to their
exalted name in restaurant lore, offer at the “Café on the Green” a small
but masterful menu in a sophisticated setting. The café indeed looks out on
grassy wooded vistas, and this pleasant exterior greenery would be visible
to most diners. The eating areas themselves form a curved space under a high
glass ceiling—sufficiently dimly lit to cast a mysterious mood, but
sufficiently bright to rescue the actual food from mystery. 
Long pale drapes, dark rattan chairs, marble table
tops, and excellent background jazz harmonize to create a witty, elegant,
and casually haute ambiance. A massive arrangement of bamboo stalks reflects
German-born executive chef Christof Syre’s sojourns in Asia, a theme which
is mirrored in the food as well. 
Pressing on diligently, one discovers the Chef’s
Selection of Thai Flavored Rock Shrimp, with Soba Noodles and Asparagus in
an Orange Ginger Reduction— fragrant and tender, with more gingery than
fiery overtones. The Oven Roasted Tandoori Marinated Rack of Lamb with
Marsala Spaghetti Squash in a Kaffir Lime Reduction is a magnificent
offering, redolent with subtle spices and savory complexities. I passed up
with some regrets the recommendation that our waiter informed us that he had
made to his mother: the Ginger and Cilantro Steamed Grouper with Fragrant
Jasmine Rice and Braised Shiitake Mushrooms.
Those who seek (as the menu states) “nutritionally
balanced healthier fare” will find several appetizers and one dinner item
with these specifications. Altogether the meals—although hearty and generous
as to portions—have a nouvelle-esque freshness and appear as though they
might be kinder to one’s arteries than many high-end repasts.