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When Nature Calls, Go to Mexico

Whale-Watching Season Hits its Peak in Baja California  

In winter, humans aren’t the only mammals trading cold weather for sunny Mexico.  Gray whales also make the trip, abandoning the freezing waters of the Bering Sea near Alaska in November each year for the warm waters of the Baja California Peninsula down the Pacific Coast. This migratory phenomenon is a delight to avid whale-watchers and curious tourists alike. 

At top speeds of five miles an hour and staying close to the Pacific coastline, the California Gray whales swim day and night without stopping, gradually make their way to the warm tranquil waters off the coast of Baja California where they mate, bask in soothing lagoons and give birth.  With pregnant females in the lead, more than 10,000 gray whales make the yearly migration, covering approximately 5000 miles each way and taking about four months to complete the round-trip journey. 

Although the whales start their migration in November, the peak time for whale-watching in Mexico’s Baja Peninsula is January through late March or early April, after the calves are born.  During these months, boat excursions are available all along Baja California for tourists to view these magnificent creatures, enjoy the blowhole water shows, and on brave occasions, even touch them.   This is not as difficult as it sounds, since gray whales are friendly and will often swim up to the boats and allow human contact.  In early spring, the calves and their mothers are the last to head back up north, and without the presence of the males, mothers are less protective, often allowing their young to approach tour boats more freely.   

Hunted for their oils, blubber and other valuable products, gray whales were once victims of massive slaughters in the 1800s and early 20th century.  The hunting continued until the numbers were reduced to only a few hundred, and the whales were subsequently placed on the endangered species list.  But thanks to an international protection agreement made among several countries in the 1940s, the whales’ numbers have grown at an incredible rate.  Today, more than 20,000 gray whales exist and although still protected, they were removed from the endangered species list in 1975. 

Whale-watching takes place all along the coastline of the Baja Peninsula, but most of the gray whales and their babies are concentrated in three major lagoons: 

Laguna Ojo de Liebre: located half-way down the peninsula (also known as “Scammon’s Lagoon”) on the Pacific side, in Guerrero Negro. This was the principal hunting lagoon used by commercial whale hunters in the 19th century.  Most tourists arrive to the lagoon by car, located 440 miles south of the border, but a national airport is also available for tourists flying in from other destinations in Mexico.

Laguna San Ignacio (100 miles south of Laguna Ojo de Liebre): access is mostly through charter air service from international airports such as San Diego and Tijuana. 

Bahia Magdalena (Magdalena Bay): in recent years this bay has become increasingly popular for whale-watching due to its proximity to the La Paz and Loreto International airports. 

A smaller percentage of whales make it as far south as Cabo San Lucas and the East Cape on the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula, particularly those who are not giving birth. 

Getting there?

Tourists can arrive by ground and/or charter plane to the lagoons. Loreto’s International airport is the closest international airport to the lagoons, but has limited service by Aeromexico and Aero California.  It is also about a ten-hour car trip north from Cabo San Lucas.  La Paz, the capital of Baja California Sur, is located approximately halfway between Loreto and Cabo and its airport is larger, offering more flight options. 

Options for Whale-watching

Gray whale excursions comprise half-day or day trips, packages based out of whale-watching camps, and cruise programs that allow tourists to sleep onboard ships.  Below are some major tour operators that specialize in whale-watching:

Baja Expeditions (www.bajaex.com): based in La Paz and one of the oldest and largest whale-watching outfitters that service both Magdalena Bay and San Ignacio lagoons.    They offer charter flights directly from San Diego to San Ignacio and five-day, all-inclusive packages, including accommodations at the camps.  They also offer seven-day combined kayaking and whale-watching programs to Magdalena Bay, meeting at the La Paz International Airport.  Programs run from February to end of March.

Baja Discovery Tours (www.bajadiscovery.com):  in the business for 20 years, it offers an all-inclusive service from the San Diego International airport, including ground service to Tijuana, charter service to San Ignacio and accommodations at the San Ignacio camp.  Five-day programs run from February to end of March.

Lindblad’s Special Expeditions (www.expeditions.com): offers nine-day cruises featuring whale-watching at Magdalena Bay along with other destinations and activities.  Group meets in Los Cabos. 

Miramar Adventures (www.miramar-adventures.com): offers three-day excursions to the Ojo de Liebre lagoon.   Tourists arrive by car.

Baja Tours (www.bajatours.com): offers whale-watching tours to Magdalena Bay, fishing, kayaking, diving and much more.

Royal Polaris (tel. 310-548-7562): offers nine-day excursions to Laguna San Ignacio aboard the 105 foot Royal Polaris. Organized by the Cabrillo Marine Aquarium.  Ship departs from San Diego.

Pronatur/Pro-Tours (www.rissalena.com): based out of Los Cabos, Pro-Tours provide three-hour whale-watching tours. 

For those not interested in signing up for a whale-watching package, Puerto Lόpez Mateos or Puerto San Carlos at Magdalena Bay are quaint sleepy villages where boats can be rented for $50 a day, skipper included, and only a two-hour drive from the Loreto International Airport. 

Gray whales aren’t the only species to see while in Baja.  Sea Kayak Adventures (www.seakayakadventures.com) also offers kayaking/camping adventures out of Loreto on the Sea of Cortez (located on the eastern side of the Baja Peninsula) with finback and blue whales, along with dolphins, sea lions and exotic fish.   Apart from paddling among islands, additional activities include snorkeling and hiking up scenic canyons offering breathtaking panoramas.

Baja California offers a wide array of attractions for visitors: lush scenery, biodiversity, crystal clear waters, countless water sports, golf, pristine beaches, historic charm and active nightlife.

Edited by Dave Shultz

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