Islas Secas: A Total Island Escape Off the Coast of Panama

Islas Secas is a privately owned archipelago of 16 small islands in the Gulf of Chiriqui off Panama’s Pacific Coast. Adventurers and beachcombers are invited.

By Mary Ashcraft and Rod Lopez-Fabrega

If you’ve ever thought of being shipwrecked on a romantic island in the serene blue Pacific, with gentle breezes, swaying palms, lazy afternoons in a hammock and brilliant sunsets, then it is possible that your wish may have come true in a tropical Eden off the coast of Panama.

Islas Secas is an archipelago of 16 islands located in the Gulf of Chiriqui off Panama’s Pacific Coast. In pre-colonial times the main island, Cavada, was populated by an isolated Indian culture, and pottery shards and stone tools may still be found on the hillsides. Since that time, the islands have been mostly uninhabited except for Iguana, Coati, tropical birds and scurrying land crabs. The ocean surrounding the islands is chockfull of colorful and edible sea life.

Several years ago, Linda Klein, an adventurer, spent a blissful three months exploring the islands in search of clear water and solitude. She was so impressed with Islas Secas that she alerted her brother Michael who saw them, loved them and bought them to be enjoyed by himself, his family and his friends. After spending “magical days” there snorkeling in clear waters, and having a close encounter with a breaching mother whale and her calf, he knew that these islands were to be his to care for. Michael is the president of Core Wealth, a hedge fund manager, and previously was the founder of MIBEK Corporation, developers of financial analysis and modeling software and CEO of eGroups with over 50 million users. Michael knows what he wants and wastes no time making decisions. He soon realized that he wanted to share this unique atmosphere with others of like mind, so he is generously offering to share this paradise with any adventurous beachcomber eager for a genuine castaways experience.

On Cavada, the largest island, he would build his shelters for guests. In keeping with Michael’s love of the islands and his commitment to the environment, he decided to forego building the usual island cottages, and opted instead to assemble extraordinary pre-fabricated casitas. These round structures, manufactured by the Pacific Yurts Company, are basically very elaborate semi permanent tents set on base of concrete. Interiors are simple and elegant using the natural colors of the earth with wood Windows encircle the structures in order to catch gentle ocean breezes from any and wicker furniture, beds covered with white quilts printed with swaying palm trees, and a romantic functional mosquito net over the bed, all resting on a floor painted the color of a ripe peach. Everything else is crisp white, and in the ample bathrooms, showers are painted the colors of warm tropical flowers. The approach is sensuous and earthy. Michael thinks of them as akin to the Arabian pavilions of fable. What could be better on an island that was overlooked by the passage of time?

There are only six of these casitas, and they are situated so that surrounding tropical landscaping provides each with total privacy from its neighbors, plus views of beach, sky and sea. Each casita sits beside its own thatched open-air ranchito with hammocks and seating for those lazy afternoons of simply meditating, reading or staring at the clouds.

Hosts, Guy and Debra Bunting know islands well, as they are real boat-based adventurers, having for many years explored islands in the Pacific as well as many countries in Central and South America on their own boat. They live in a casita on shore, but the place they call home is their boat anchored off shore in the bay.

Your day on the island is exactly as you wish it to be. There are no scheduled activities, but, naturally, sea sports are dominated by the tides. Guy Bunting describes it: “This is a place for someone who really wants to get away. To me that is the largest draw—and if you are really adventurous, the diving is truly spectacular, the sport fishing around here is world class, and snorkeling and kayaking are steps away from your door. The ocean waters here are not depleted from too much tourism. It’s not a Galapagos that has been over exploited. Basically, there’s NO ONE HERE. There are NO FOOTPRINTS ON THE BEACHES.”

Hold that thought if you want an unforgettable day on nearby Pargo. This island is even more isolated than Cavada and you need the resort’s launch to take you there, and pick you up five or six hours later. On this island, there are no other people in the world. In this time warp, there are only water, white sand beach, palm trees, and birds flying overhead where the only footprints will be yours, and time seems to disappear. Of course, if you would like kayaks, Snorkel gear, towels, colorful beach umbrellas, and picnic lunch to sustain you on Pargo, the staff will make it so.

For the serious fisherman, the resort has arrangements with Pesca Panama, a noted charter fishing operation. At additional cost, guests can be picked up for a day of world-class sport fishing around such famous fishing holes as

Hannibal Banks. Surfers also have the option of finding challenging surf at Morro Negro, a short ride away.

After a day of swimming, snorkeling, kayaking, or fishing in the island clear waters, it is probably the time to call on Mikela in her hideaway spa in order to calm those overworked muscles. In her quiet spa station, she offers a varied number of options for relaxation and skin treatments. Choices include the Essential Wave Massage, Pineapple Puff facial, Un Cafecito body rub, and the After Sun Soother Vino Tinto.

Every afternoon at five o’clock it is time to gather at La Terraza, a beachside terrace, for a refreshing drink and to mix with the other guests to exchange stories about the days adventures. Deborah and Guy host the gathering, bringing their special talent for putting everyone at their ease while server and bartender Jose mixes cool concoctions like Long Island Tea and Panamanian Punch.

All meals are served al fresco on La Terraza. The branches of spreading Mango tree protect diners from the rays of the sun, and a two-foot stone wall separates them from the beach and the hypnotizing sounds of neap and ebb tides. Two young capable chefs are co-rulers of the kitchen, creating Nouvelle light and Classic cuisine. Maurice Belanger has wide knowledge of Northern Italian and Thai cuisine, and Jenny Guerra has expertise in Mediterranean and Panamanian cuisine. Maurice, with no sweet tooth, shies away from desserts, while for Jenny creating new desserts is a challenge she loves. The dishes are always a savory surprise, and the artistic presentation is food for the eyes. Examples from the repertoire might be a delicate Cold Cream of Carrot with Lemon soup, salmon filet served over romaine with cherry tomatoes, roasted yellow peppers, Manchego cheese and roasted garlic aioli, and ending the experience with a lemon pie with freshly picked fruit from Islas Secas lemon trees. As it turns out, Islas Secas is not only good for the soul, it also is good for the palate.

Jenny’s Islas Secas Cold Cream of Carrot Soup
Yields 6 cups

2 lbs. carrots, peeled and chopped into chunks
5 cups chicken broth
2 tablespoons butter
1 yellow onion, chopped
½ tablespoon ginger, peeled and julienned into strips
1 tsp. Curry powder
2 cups heavy cream
juice of 2 lemons
zest of one lemon, julienned into strips for garnish
salt to taste

1. Place the carrots in a large pot with the chicken broth and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce to low heat and simmer until the carrots are very tender.

2. In a skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the onions, ginger, and curry powder. Sauté until onions are soft but not brown. Add this mixture to the simmering carrot broth. Add1-1/2 cups of the heavy cream to the broth as well.

3. When the mixture reaches a simmer again, remove from heat. Puree mixture in a blender and then pass the soup through a fine sieve. Add the lemon juice. Refrigerate.

4. When cold, adjust the salt to taste.

5. Whip the reserved1/2 cup of heavy cream to soft peaks.

6. To plate, serve into chilled soup bowls, add a dollop of the whipped cream in the center and garnish with the lemon zest julienne strips.

Getting there from Panama City is easiest on Islas Secas’ private plane, leaving from Tocumen, Panama’s International airport or Albrook Field, formerly an American Airforce base in the days of the Canal Zone occupation. Secas flights can be coordinated with International arrivals at Tocumen. However, the transfer on the resort’s aircraft is an additional $400 roundtrip from Panama to Islas Secas and back. An alternate way is to depart from Albrook Field on either Aero Perlas or Turismo Aereo, both regional airlines flying 20 passengers to David, the closest city on the Panamanian mainland to Islas Secas. Expect a two hour ride to the islands on a trusty little boat called Betty La Fea. With tongue in cheek, Betty the Homely was named after a plain but totally dependable Soap Opera character on Spanish speaking TV stations. The ride may be bumpy across open waters, but an interesting one that passes many other islands and mangroves along the way.

A stopover in Panama either to or from Islas Secas is recommended. Since the United States officially turned over the canal, the country has blossomed into a modern city with skyscrapers and luxury office buildings. The East Indian boutiques, the infamous Chinese section of the past, and its unique and colorful Kuna Indians are ever present. The Kuna ladies are the ones that make the skillful and traditional Molas that are a part of their native dress. The country is stable and safe and you can drink the water from any tap (thanks in part to U.S. sanitation standards established during the Canal Zone days). You can find anything you are looking for in Panama including some of the brazen old Panama of bygone days if you look hard enough.

For prices, reservations and scheduling, contact Islas Secas directly at http://www.islassecas.com/is_request.html

Or contact Islas Secas Worldwide Reservations Office (Santa Barbara, California) Phone: 805-729-2737 (West Coast time=9am to 5pm, Monday-Friday)

Photo Credits: Islas Secas, Rod Lopez-Fabrega & Mary Ashcraft