I wiggle my toes and warm ripples of water flow over the
rimless edge of my private infinity pool. A scarlet butterfly
visits the fragrant red and orange bougainvillea shielding our patio as the
lagoon fountains begin to dance. This was my first magical day in a Lagoon Suite at the famed Hotel Villa del Sol in Zihuatanejo (Zee-wa-tuh-nay’-ho),
Mexico.
Zihuatanejo lies in the high-rise shadow of Ixtapa, just
four miles up the bayed Pacific coastline. But Zihua (Zee’-wa) as it’s
affectionately called, is a million miles away from Ixtapa in personality,
landscape and culture.
Ixtapa is a manufactured “tourista zone” patterned after
Cancun, filled with chain restaurants, tall hotels and raging nightspots. In
low-key contrast, Zihua is a working Mexican village and harbor, complete with
real locals who shop, eat, work and relax in the quiet charm of this authentic
fishing village.
As a confirmed beach hound, I have a few simple yet strict
requirements when seeking a sun-and-sand getaway. It must be a fast and easy
destination to escape to.
I want to hear the surf when I sleep, and keep cool
with refreshing sea breezes. Riding an elevator to the beach is simply not an
option. My dream vacation allows me to step directly from room to patio to
water. Villa del Sol was a great choice on all counts.
If you love a quiet place that’s off the radar screen for
hoards of charter package travelers, book an inexpensive flight to Ixtapa and
veer here. Through my research and a terrific message board (zihuatanejo.net
created and managed by the very helpful Zihu@Rob), I learned that Zihuatanejo
and nearby Troncones are growing, yet far from overrun by tourists, retaining
their true Mexican heritage.
Many people do lament the arrival of cruise ships
“ruining” the harbor view and overrunning the town for several hours each week.
However, during my high-season visit, the beaches were surprisingly uncrowded,
even at sunset, and La Perla’s ever-popular beach bar was
only half-full. Of course, this didn’t make their notoriously slow wait staff
move any faster.
The town of Zihua nestles behind picturesque Zihuatanejo
Bay, comprised of three lovely smile-shaped beaches: La Ropa, La Madeira and the
Playa Municipal, which serves as the village’s harbor for cruise ships, water
taxis (pangas) and sport fishing excursions.La Ropa Beach is widely considered
the finest beach in all of Mexico, a mile of golden sand, flanked by the Sierra
Madres. The bay is deep and sheltered so you can leave
your water shoes at home. La Ropa’s sand is soft and pristine, free of stinging
and spiny sea creatures, jagged rocks, coral or shells.
The breathtaking cliffs that fringe the bay have evolved
into architectural marvels. Many superb restaurants and bungalows are
masterfully carved into these hills, perched as close to the edge as possible to
provide world-class views and a good case of vertigo.
Zihua faces west, making every sunset a time of great
celebration and camaraderie. Grab a cerveza and a front
row palapa to catch nature’s show, with luxury yachts and fishing boats
silhouetted against the crimson sky. Or experience sunset from some of Zihua’s
exotic cliffside restaurants, which include (from moderate to extremely pricey):
Puesta del Sol, Kau-Kan, Amuleto and La Casa Que Canta, the enchanting hideaway
where “When a Man Loves a Woman” was filmed. You won’t easily forget the sight
of the sun blazing into the ocean just as the full moon rises behind you.
Zihua’s “regulars” may grouse about rising prices, too many
tourists, parasail and cruise ship obstruction. And I suppose a lot has changed
since the 80s. But for a first-time visitor looking for an authentic Mexican
holiday where nothing stands taller than the coconut trees, Zihua is an
easy-to-get-to, hard-to-find travel value.
Getting around: Taxis are government controlled from
airport to Zihua, are about $27-$30 one way. Zihua back to the airport is around
$9. From La Ropa Beach to town is about $3. From Zihua to Ixtapa is $4.50.
Always ask the rate first, before you get in.
Activities: Game fishing, snorkeling, horseback riding on
the beach, kayak tours, rainforest walking tours, golf, yoga on the beach
When to go: Zihua is protected from the south by the
mountains, and is quite temperate year-round. Highs range from 86-88Fin the
winter months, to 93-99F in summer.
The rainiest months are August and September.
Rates at Villa del Sol: Superior rooms from $270/nt. in low
season to $330 high season. Suites start at $430 low season to $550 high
season.. The meal program is mandatory in winter, $60 pp per day. Contact them
at:
www.hotelvilladelsol.com.
Best Hotel Bargain on La Ropa Beach: Bungalows Vepao.
(INSERT VEPAO PATIO PHOTO) The front rooms (units 1 & 2) are directly on the
beach, $85/night and that includes the 17% tax. The people staying on either
side of you are definitely paying almost $200 a night more than that. Rooms come
with and without kitchenettes, full patios, bottled water. Contact them at:
www.vepao.com.
TM
I wiggle my toes and warm ripples of water flow over the
rimless edge of my private infinity pool. A scarlet butterfly
visits the fragrant red and orange bougainvillea shielding our patio as the
lagoon fountains begin to dance. This was my first magical day in a Lagoon Suite at the famed Hotel Villa del Sol in Zihuatanejo (Zee-wa-tuh-nay’-ho),
Mexico.
Ixtapa is a manufactured “tourista zone” patterned after
Cancun, filled with chain restaurants, tall hotels and raging nightspots. In
low-key contrast, Zihua is a working Mexican village and harbor, complete with
real locals who shop, eat, work and relax in the quiet charm of this authentic
fishing village.
I want to hear the surf when I sleep, and keep cool
with refreshing sea breezes. Riding an elevator to the beach is simply not an
option. My dream vacation allows me to step directly from room to patio to
water. Villa del Sol was a great choice on all counts.
Many people do lament the arrival of cruise ships
“ruining” the harbor view and overrunning the town for several hours each week.
However, during my high-season visit, the beaches were surprisingly uncrowded,
even at sunset, and La Perla’s ever-popular beach bar was
only half-full. Of course, this didn’t make their notoriously slow wait staff
move any faster.
La Ropa Beach is widely considered
the finest beach in all of Mexico, a mile of golden sand, flanked by the Sierra
Madres. The bay is deep and sheltered so you can leave
your water shoes at home. La Ropa’s sand is soft and pristine, free of stinging
and spiny sea creatures, jagged rocks, coral or shells.
Zihua faces west, making every sunset a time of great
celebration and camaraderie. Grab a cerveza and a front
row palapa to catch nature’s show, with luxury yachts and fishing boats
silhouetted against the crimson sky. Or experience sunset from some of Zihua’s
exotic cliffside restaurants, which include (from moderate to extremely pricey):
Puesta del Sol, Kau-Kan, Amuleto and La Casa Que Canta, the enchanting hideaway
where “When a Man Loves a Woman” was filmed. You won’t easily forget the sight
of the sun blazing into the ocean just as the full moon rises behind you.
Zihua’s “regulars” may grouse about rising prices, too many
tourists, parasail and cruise ship obstruction. And I suppose a lot has changed
since the 80s. But for a first-time visitor looking for an authentic Mexican
holiday where nothing stands taller than the coconut trees, Zihua is an
easy-to-get-to, hard-to-find travel value.