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A Part of Bavaria Few Americans Get to See

Romantik Hotel Gut Schmelmerhof in Eastern Bavaria

By Joel Chusid

It is snowing outside as I write this, with big fluffy white flakes coming straight down silently as there is no wind today in this beautiful place. Walking outside is magical, which is what the Romantik Hotel Gut Schmelmerhof indeed is. Located in the hamlet of Rettenbach, just four kilometers from the excellent ski resort and tourist center of Sankt Englmar, this hotel is the best base to explore nature, pursue well being, and oh yes, to sample gastronomy at its finest – and without busting your budget. For this is a part of Bavaria few Americans venture to, yet it is not that far off the beaten track. Regensburg and Deggendorf are nearby towns definitely worth exploring, but they are not widely known abroad. But coming here IS worth the trip, no matter the season.

This is Eastern Bavaria, not the better known Black Forest or higher Alps. We are in the Bavarian forest, only a few kilometers from both the Czech and Austrian borders.  Last year about 80,000 visitors, 90% of them German, stayed overnight in St. Englmar or nearby hamlets like Rettenbach, but according to Josef Nicki of the Sankt Englmar Tourist Office, this number included only 75 Americans, and probably all of those were resting at the Romantik Hotel Gut Schmelmerhof after world famous spinal surgery by a prominent doctor.

Yet the area is not that hard to get to, only a little over an hour by rental car from Munich, mostly via autobahn, or under two hours by train from Munich to Plattling, where the hotel will arrange to pick you up. But you feel as if it’s much further, in fact, it’s a trip into tradition and Old World culture. After all, records show that parts of the hotel building were initially constructed in 1305. Americans tend to consider something built in 1900 as old, or 1800 as really old. But for Europeans, those are new. The town of Rettenbach itself has fewer residents than hotel guests, and not even a post office or a shop.

The building itself was actually a large farmer’s house and barn, but it has been totally remodeled as a hotel in 1972, and subsequently updated several times, most recently as 2005 with the addition of the new spa and 11 more rooms. It is indeed a special place. Family owned since the 1300’s, the Schmelmer family can trace their ancestors back that far, although only to 1630 with the same name. Josef and Hildegard Schmelmer and their son, Markus, and daughter-in-law Sonja, treat you as family, greeting guests at every opportunity. They radiate true Bavarian hospitality, and in a few more years grandson Thomas, now two years old, will no doubt enter hospitality training to carry on the tradition. Rumor has it that he’ll have a new sibling arriving this summer to help him when he is old enough! Personable son Markus went through twelve years of training after high school, which included learning how to be a waiter, bartender, and chef, and that was before he returned to help manage the hotel. Markus and Sonja speak English well and are most accommodating.

The hotel has 52 rooms, and even when full, is peaceful and relaxing. It is as comfortable as you can get, with large rooms, well furnished, with beds laden with eiderdowns and fluffy pillows. Every room has a terrace, a desk, comfortable chairs, and a bathroom with various features such as an adjustable cosmetic mirror, bathtub or shower, and some have delightful heated towel racks. Of course, the rooms are modern, with amenities that include cable TV and wi-fi internet.

Rettenbach has one small church and barely 60 full time residents. Then why would one want to come here? Actually, all the action is barely 3 miles away in Sankt Englmar, a regionally well known ski resort and winter vacation spot. St. Englmar itself has a year round population of only 1,500. Depending on the season, St. Englmar, offers skiing, snowboarding, tobogganing, bowling, horseback riding, Nordic walking (hiking with poles on trails, all year), hunting, mountain biking curling, kayaking, white water rafting, fishing, plus there are a variety of nature parks and the area is known for the handmade glass factories in the area that welcome visitors. Rettenbach’s laid back atmosphere and comfort is a great place to stay and enjoy all the area has to offer. One can even walk to Sankt Englmar on a country lane or on hiking paths.

But the Romantik Hotel Gut Schmelmerhof offers a sanctuary from your typical ski resort. It is a place where people come to take walks in the forest, no matter what the season. In winter right from the hotel there is cross country skiing, Nordic walking, snowshoe walking, and so much more. While I visited in winter, summer, spring, and fall each have their own particular attraction. The hotel has a wellness center that offers massages, facials, exfoliation, manicures, pedicures, and a variety of other treatments for both men and women. There are three saunas (2 indoor and one outdoor), a therapeutic infrared cabin, and an indoor and outdoor pool and a Jacuzzi.  In the conservatory you can relax and marvel at the snow. Americans should take note that the spa is European style, which means it is quite normal for men and women share saunas au naturel. It’s not as difficult as it sounds.

The public areas are tasteful and quiet, with special Old World touches like an old sleigh, wooden chests, and local artwork. Rustic wood rafters are on the ceiling in the lobby, along with an unusual Czech clock that daily at 17.30 depicts events associated with the 12 apostles and the Last Supper; it dates to 1890 and was built by a German clockmaker. Ask the Schmelmers how they obtained it! There is a “chimney bar” room and an elegant dining room, both of which feature unusual vaulted ceilings and fireplaces. One of these dates back to 1664 and the other 1870.  The Florianstube is another smaller room, formerly where the farmer served meals to travelers, and it is the only one which you can smoke in at dinner, and it serves lunch as well. (The dining areas are otherwise smoke-free.)

But the food sets the Romantik Hotel Gut Schmelmerhof apart, and is a very pleasant surprise. It is hardly only sausages and sauerkraut, but true gourmet Bavarian and international food. Breakfast is a treat, with lots of choices including smoked fish, creamy yogurts, a dozen cereals (think muesli), eggs, sausage, juices, platters of cheeses and smoked meats, and best of all, crusty breads and rolls, including my favorites, the salt sticks and pretzel rolls. Dinner is true gastronomy, with fine wines and a variety of marvelous dishes. My dinner started with a small portion of Thai curry soup, and I was able to sample cream of mussels as well as cream of mushroom (mushrooms from the forest!) soup, both delicate and delicious.   A large salad bar offered far more than lettuce and tomatoes, with marinated vegetables, shrimp, sliced meat, herring, and more. I also was served another green salad, with rare slices of beef. As a main, I had tournedos of beef, with gratined potatoes and creatively arranged sliced vegetables. Dessert was cherry flambé, served with straciatelli ice cream. The second night there were 3 kinds of soup, pumpkin cream, game broth, cream of basil, then Coquilles St. Jacques. The main course was tender slices of lamb, noodles, and pepper vegetables. Dessert was chocolate mousse. The third night I was treated to a platter of Bavarian appetizers, including meat loaf (different than what Americans call the same), three kinds of sausages, pork neck, and fresh baked bread with different toppings, one of which was quite delicious but I was stunned to learn it was lard! There are a variety of beers available, including the wonderful local Tegensee, and many delicious German and international wines. The white wines are light and refreshing, and the reds are excellent as well. Prices are per glass, and are very reasonable for the quality.

The rates here are quite reasonable and except for holiday weeks, do not vary seasonally. People come in winter for the skiing and winter sports, in summer for the usual warm weather activities. In autumn, the leaves are changing, and the brisk air invites walks in the forest. Springtime is well, springtime, with flowers and blooms all over, although be warned that early spring can be muddy from the melting snow. The spa is a welcome treat year round, and no matter when you come, you will leave feeling rejuvenated. About four or five days would constitute a proper stay, and if you are traveling around Europe, you can do this as part of a long weekend or take a few week days off from touring as a respite.

There are several types of rooms, but they do not vary enormously. The best rates are packages that include the sumptuous breakfasts and four course dinners. Rates don’t include a small tax or alcoholic beverages.  For example, for a Sunday or Monday arrival, a rate of about $500 per person covers 4 nights accommodation, breakfast, gourmet dinner, and four different spa treatments. (That’s a fraction of what similar accommodations would cost elsewhere.) Weekends are higher. There are honeymoon packages that include amenities such as a private moonlight swim. Tipping is optional, and there are little piggy banks at reception, with the proceeds divided among staff.

It is hard to criticize anything in the hotel. Well traveled Americans will have no problem, but indeed German is the lingua franca of the hotel. There are no English TV stations and no English magazines or newspapers. But most of the staff speaks English, and so do many of the guests. Most of the German guests have dogs, so it’s easy to strike up a conversation by starting with the dog! The food is international, and there’s always the internet if you must have news from home. Bavarian hospitality is contagious, and while Europeans tend to be more reserved, everyone, guest or staff member, greets you with “Gut Morgen” or “Guten Ahben” every day.

The Romantic Hotel Gut-Schmelmerhof is perfect for singles, couples, families with small children, although those with older children may find it a bit quiet unless they have a car to explore the surrounding area. Nightlife revolves around relaxing in the chimney room. There is one disco in St. Englmar, but this is not Las Vegas or anything close. Dogs are welcome for a small charge, and there is a modest fee for parking. The hotel has an elevator and does not have too many steps so physically challenged guests are welcome, although bathrooms are not specifically designed for such. While it varies seasonally, the average age of guests during the week tends to be in the 50’s and on weekends in the 30’s.

This is a very special place. If you want to visit someplace different and “very European,” yet be well taken care of, try this place. And ask Markus Schmelmer to show you his “piston bully.”  I had never seen one before!

Getting here:  From Munich Airport, rent a car and it’s 1:15 hours via mostly autobahn, Or take the S-Bahn to the Munich Hauptbahnhoff. It’s a 45 minute ride and trains go every 10 minutes. There, change to German Rail and take the regional train to Plattling From there someone from the hotel or a taxi (40 euros each way), often one of the Schmelmers themselves, will pick you up and take you the 35 minutes to Rettenbach.

The Facts:

Romantik Hotel Gut-Schmelmerhof
Rettenbach 24, 94379 Sankt Englmar (Bavaria), Germany
Telephone: +49-99-65-1890; fax +49-99-65-189140
E-Mail: hotel@gut-schmelmerhof.de
www.romantikhotels.com
www.gut-schmelmerhof.de (an English translation is in the works)
www.sankt-englmar.de (there is an English translation available)
www.ostbayern-tourismus.de

Romantik Hotels & Restaurants were founded in Germany in 1972, since then the group has grown to 194 small hotels and country inns in 12 European countries. Romantik is committed to offering travelers outstanding quality, tradition and luxury by adhering to stringent admission requirements for new members. Every Romantik Hotel is in a historic building, personally operated by the owner, offers outstanding cuisine, and consistently meets the highest standards of service.  After going through a thorough selection process, the successful hotel is awarded the title "Romantik Hotel & Restaurant."

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