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Bethlehem: From Steel to Style

Revival of an American City

By Terri Botkins

Huge black vats of molten lava. Sooty men in goggles and thick gloves performing a primeval dance with tons of liquid metal. In darkened classrooms, we watched films on American Industry, and I was fascinated by the people and the process of Bethlehem Steel. When, after 140 years of production, the giant was failing due to foreign competition and a changing market, I felt a sense of loss – an American icon was fading away.

But the town of Bethlehem lives on, and once I brushed the coal dust from my mental picture of a depressed industrial center, I found that the heart of this city glows like a gem.  Bethlehem is much more than steel, starting with a history that goes back to the founding of our nation. The Moravians, a protestant sect that originated in Czechoslovakia and migrated to Germany, came to America as missionaries to the native peoples of this country. They created Bethlehem in a wilderness that’s hard to imagine today, and their buildings still stand; some have been in continuous use since 1741. The Gemeinhaus, Central Moravian Church, and Burnside Plantation are fascinating monuments to the American spirit that took root here so long ago.

In the spirit of revival, Radisson Hotels has recently completed a $7 million renovation of the Hotel Bethlehem, and the success of this endeavor is reflected in the lovely floor-to-ceiling palladium windows that look out onto Main Street. The lobby is full of cozy sofas and chairs -  a perfect spot to meet with friends and have a drink from the bar, or curl up with a book and watch the passers-by. Enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner in the 5-star Collonade Restaurant, where you can gaze upon seven murals that tell the history of Bethlehem, and be sure to make time for their award-winning Sunday Brunch buffet.

Bethlehem takes full advantage of their Christmas connection, and a December visit to this town is a festive, wintry experience. The old-fashioned streetlamps glow on the snow-covered streets, but they can’t compete with the star of Bethlehem, which shines down from South Mountain during the holiday season. Take a tour of the historic sites on a warm bus with a guide dressed in traditional Moravian costume, or brave the elements snuggled up in a horse-drawn carriage. Stop in at Granny McCarthy’s tea room for some tasty Irish treats, or try Bethlehem Brew Works for some great beer and brats.

Once you’ve gotten your fill of lunch, it’s time for a walk down Main Street for a little sightseeing and shopping.  The architecture is a blend of old and new, and quaint shops are tucked in between historic buildings like The 1758 Sun Inn (where Martha Washington dined, and so can you) and oddities like the old water fountain that urges you to forego alcohol and imbibe the pure water (sentiments left over from Prohibition). One shop that’s not to be missed is the Moravian Book Store. When I first walked in, I had a hard time finding the books for all the wide variety of items for sale – temping chocolates, stationery, cooking utensils, and a wide selection of books; I finally found them once I realized the shop sprawls across three store fronts.

The real shopping at Yuletide is at the Christkindlmarkt – a craft fair with lots of extras under a heated tent, just around the corner from the center of town. There are rides for the kids and, when I was there, a gentleman sculpting ice with a chainsaw. Most of the other 175 or so craftspeople have somewhat tamer talents on display, and you can enjoy your meal selections seated at a table at the food court while you listen to a local choral group or a storyteller on the stage by the big Christmas tree.  I found some hand-carved wooden Santas, a felted wool hat, and a reasonably priced print of a famous photograph while I was there.

But it’s not just all about Christmas in this little town. There’s something fun going on all year round, including the Concours d’Elegance in June – a classic car show with 200 of the most elegant antique autos on display, Musikfest in August – a 10-day extravaganza of mostly free music on 15 stages, with good food and lots of activities for the kids, and the Celtic Classic in September – the largest Celtic Festival in North America. Bethlehem has many fascinating museums, including my favorite, the Kemerer Museum of Decorative Arts, which had lovely Christmas displays in all of their rooms. The 1810 Goundie House, right on Main Street, has guides in period costume, and the Moravian Museum has exhibits that depict the lifestyle of the early settlers of this area.

One of the country’s newest museums is in development in Bethlehem. The National Museum of Industrial History (an affiliate of the Smithsonian) will be located at the Bethlehem Steel Works, and will showcase the industries that built this country.  Exhibits from the Smithsonian’s Arts and Industry museum, including a re-creation of the 1876 Centennial Exhibition, will be combined with original displays that tell the stories of America’s industrial achievements.  The museum is scheduled to open mid-2004, and is presently in the fund-raising stage.

Industry still thrives in this area, and there are many factories nearby that have intriguing tours, including the Crayola Factory in Easton, PA, where I found that I hadn’t lost my skills with colors -  and after you make a few crayons or markers, you can walk over to the National Canal Museum, which is in the same building and has lots of great hands-on exhibits that are fun for kids and parents. The Martin Guitar Factory in Nazareth, PA, takes you up close to the artists who make some of the best guitars in the world – and to continue in the musical line, Allen Organ has a factory in Macungie, PA with an interesting tour that includes some history on digital music. A must-see for big and little guys is the Mack Truck Factory, also in Macungie, where you can see how the big rigs are manufactured in a one-million square foot facility.

Bethlehem is less than two hours north of Philadelphia and about the same distance west of NYC.  Nestled in the Lehigh Valley of PA, it’s not too far from the Poconos or Hershey Park.  You can’t see them making steel here anymore, but you can see the spirit of American perseverance and persistence, and the style in which Bethlehem has progressed past the closing of one of the country’s biggest industries.

Internet Resources:

www.bethlehempaonline.com is a great site that has links to almost anything you need to know about the Lehigh Valley. www.concourseast.org will tell you all about the classic car show. www.christkindlmarkt.org gives you the dates of operation of this craft show, as well as a list of performers and crafters. www.celticfest.org/index-celticclassic.htm for information on the Highland Games and all the other festivities. www.musikfest.org lists data for this musical extravaganza. www.radisson.com links you to information about the Hotel Bethlehem, including rates and availability. www.historicbethlehem.org – has links to information about Bethlehem’s museums, including the Kemerer Museum and the Moravian Museum, and also has a map of some of the historic sites in this area. www.nmih.org has an innovative interactive web site that explains the exhibits. www.mguitar.com is the site for information on a tour of Martin Guitar, and www.allenorgan.com is the place for information on the Allen Organ Factory tour.

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