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From Cattle to Greyhounds
By Toni Dabbs
In the late 1800s, cattle and cowboys ruled Abilene,
Kansas. Texas drovers, having reached the northern end of the Chisholm Trail
and loaded the Longhorn cattle in their care onto the Kansas Pacific
Railroad for shipment back east, had money in their pockets, and they were
anxious to spend it at the town’s saloons, dance halls, gambling dens and
brothels. Even the legendary “Wild Bill” Hickok, who served as City Marshall,
couldn’t keep law and order.
It was a short period in Abilene’s history, but one
during which the town grew quickly. When rail lines were extended, creating
a network to the south and west, cattlemen no longer needed to drive their
herds all the way to Abilene, and the town’s role in the cattle trade
diminished. Fortunately, residents found other ways to maintain their
community’s economy.
Today, with its well maintained heritage homes and
businesses, Abilene has a quiet all-American character that I found
appealing when I stopped there on a cross-Kansas drive along Interstate 70.
I had been lured off the highway by a brochure depicting the town’s colorful
past and an eclectic list of present-day attractions.
I always enjoy touring furnished period homes, because
they reveal so much about the history of a community and the individuals who
helped create it. Abilene has several such houses, and I visited two.
The first was the modest
boyhood home of the 34th president of the United States, Dwight Eisenhower.
The simple frame house, shared by the future president, his five brothers
and their parents, is still filled with the family’s possessions, including
quilts hand made by Eisenhower’s mother.
The home is on the grounds of the Eisenhower Center, an
enclave of related structures in a park-like setting. Among other buildings
are the chapel where Eisenhower was laid to rest, his presidential library,
and a museum displaying gifts from around the world given to the president
during his two terms in office plus artifacts documenting his service as
Supreme Commander of the Allied Expeditionary Force during World War II.
The Seelye Mansion provided quite a contrast to the
Eisenhower home. Although the Seelye daughters were classmates of the
Eisenhower boys, they definitely moved in different social circles. Their
father made a fortune producing patent medicines, including talcum powder
and a camphor salve.
The Georgian style Seelye Mansion was the most
elaborate house between St. Louis and Denver when it was completed in 1905.
It was furnished with many items purchased at the 1904 St. Louis World’s
Fair, including electrical fixtures bought from Thomas Edison. It has 11
bedrooms, a ballroom on the third floor and a bowling alley in the
basement.
Located behind the mansion is a small museum containing
original equipment from the Seelye Medicine Company. It is just one of
several specialized museums in Abilene. The town also claims an Antique Doll
Museum, Fashion Museum and Museum of Independent Telephony.
The last is part of the
Heritage Center, a sort of collection of collections ranging from license
plates and barbed wire to wagons and buildings. There’s even a National
Historic Landmark carousel made in 1901 by C.W. Parker, a manufacturer of
“amusement devices” based in Abilene from the mid 1890s until 1911. The rare
“carry-us-all” has 24 hand carved horses that rock rather than going up and
down. Converted long ago to use electricity, it was being powered by its
original steam engine the day I visited.
Other specialized attractions are the State of Kansas
Sports Hall of Fame and the Greyhound Hall of Fame. Running low on time, I
had planned to give the latter a pass, when I was drawn to the entrance by
the soulful expression of the resident greyhound. The dog was the unofficial
greeter for the museum and a living advertisement for the adoption program
that finds loving homes for retired racers. I soon discovered why Abilene is
known as the “Greyhound Capital of the World,” with the National Greyhound
Association headquartered on the edge of town.
I wasn’t in town at the
right time of year to see the Wild Bill Hickok Rodeo (held the first full
week-end in May) or to take the Abilene and Smoky Valley Railroad excursion
(running Memorial Day to Labor Day), so I headed back to Interstate 70.
There, on the outskirts of Abilene, I spotted one of
the town’s major employers, the Russell Stover Candies factory. I decided
that I had time for a quick stop at the company’s candy making demonstration
kitchen and factory outlet store, where I picked up a selection of
chocolates to enjoy on my journey.
FOR MORE INFORMATION
Abilene Convention and Visitors Bureau
201 Northwest Second Street
Box 146
Abilene KS 67410
Ph: 1-800-569-5915 / 1-785-263-2231
Photos by Toni Dabbs
Copyright 2003 by Toni Dabbs. This work, including
photographs, is protected by copyright and may be used only for personal
non-commercial purposes. All other rights are reserved, and commercial use
is prohibited without permission of the author.
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