Before crossing the boca from the placid Rio Sierpe into the sea, we don our life jackets. People can drown here if the boats are too small or too full, if the capitán catches the wave wrong. But the waves are smooth, our captain is good, and we pass through without any problem. All the hotels in this area make sure their boats have powerful enough motors for the boca crossing, and they always go at high tide. Twenty minutes to the south we head in towards the shore, where two men appear, wading into the water to hold the boat as we arrive. As we slosh onto the beach, six scarlet macaws fly overhead. A good omen.

After we settle our things in the newly constructed cabins at Delfin Amor Eco-Lodge, we set off along a trail that skirts the tiny, rocky coves called Las Caletas. Sometimes we have to climb down onto the beach and up the rocks again, so we are thankful for low tide and high boots. Monkeys accompany us on the 45-minute hike to Cocalito Lodge, a friendly, Canadian-owned place right on the beach. We stop there for a refresco and the monkeys have some bananas. Ten minutes more along the trail is the polished jungle elegance of La Paloma Lodge, where we have a delicious arroz con pollo for lunch overlooking the Bay. Later that day, Sierra, the owner of Delfin Amor, Shawn Larkin, another dolphin expert, and Villa, our captain, pick us up to go in search of dolphins.

Because it is about 3:30 in the afternoon, and the tropical sun always sets quickly around 5:30, we do not go far. If we had started earlier in the day, we would have gone out past Isla del Caño, where there are thousands of dolphins. But now we are visiting "The Homeboys", a smaller group which hangs out about 20 minutes offshore.

The folks at Delfin Amor believe that the dolphins should never be pursued, but should come and go from human encounters freely. As soon as we spot them, Villa cuts the motor and Sierra stands in the front of the boat, beating a steady rhythm on the bow. Shawn starts whistling and calling to the dolphins in a wild, high-pitched song. Soon the shiny, dark gray backs of the dolphins are bounding through the water on either side of the boat. In the distance smaller dolphins leap and twirl high in the air. At one point, three dolphins arc out of the water in perfect unison.

Shawn, Sierra and Villa are trying to get to know individual dolphins, in order to form relationships with them. They catch things that our uneducated eyes cannot see, like the different curves of the dolphins' dorsal fins, which indicate different species. They see that the Homeboys are entering feeding mode, and predict that soon some seabirds will join the group to share a feast. Sure enough, birds and dolphins soon converge on a school of fish. We keep a respectful distance while they are feeding. Then they are back, with an incredible feeling of love and joy in the way they surround us, the way they seem to want to be with us, to lead us, to share their world with us. It is late, and storm clouds fill the southern horizon. Shawn and Sierra see no indications that swimming with the dolphins would be the thing to do now. We head back to shore. On the way back, Shawn and Villa troll for fish. Sierra explains that the dolphins' sonar keeps them from going for bait on a hook. We catch a huge mackerel that Jerry, the pirate chef, makes into a delicious dinner as we relax on the terrace enjoying a lovely sunset over Drake Bay.

The Delfin Amor Wild Dolphin Encounters ($95 for a full day, including lunch) are available through the Lodge or to anyone staying in the Drake Bay area. Visit them at DivineDolphin.com

Read about more of Beatrice's adventures in the new 15th edition of the classic guidebook, TheNew Key to Costa Rica. She can also save you time, money and worry by helping you plan your trip. See www.keytocostarica.com.