Pamper Your Palate in MiamiFavorites of a Foodieby Madelyn MillerNew York is often thought of as the culinary capital of the United States. But Miami is giving New York a run for its money with a melting pot of Spanish and Caribbean flavors and a fusion of a diverse ethnicity of culinary techniques and traditions. On a recent trip to Greater Miami and the Beaches, I tried some exciting new restaurants and here are a few of my favorites. B.E.DNext time someone asks "would you like to go to BED with me?" they may not be making a sexual overture. Perhaps they are inviting you to the trendy new restaurant B.E.D (Beverage, Entertainment, Dining). Not surprising that a restaurant with this name would serve French food with global influences. There are no seats. So this restaurant gives new meaning to eating in bed. The first "lay" is at 8 or 8:30 pm. and the second "lay" starts at 10:30-11pm. The waitpersons (referred to as the pajama patrol) are dressed in pajamas. And the clients are dressed—or at least most of them were. One exhibitionist couple who must have reserved the front table was the entertainment for those merely drinking or waiting for a much-sought-after table. She had on fishnet stockings, and it was hard to tell what else she was wearing, since she was lying on her back with her feet in the air. Her date was wearing a big smile. I am sure he thought the food tab, which is a bit costly, was worth the price. Appetizers are $12-$15, Entrees are $32-$40 and desserts are $14. The music is loud, the smoke is heavy, and the psychic energy is hot. This restaurant truly redefines the term "bedside manner."
GAUCHO ROOM
Located in the Art Deco St. Moritz building at the Loews Miami Beach Hotel, the Gaucho Room and Bar is designed as the pampas estate of an award-winning Argentine horseman, featuring a chic lounge with wraparound piano bar and a thrilling collection of black-and-white photography. Huge banquettes in the dining room are made from material that looks like cowhide and the leather dining room chairs are decorated with coarse, mane-like tassels.
I am a little embarrassed to tell you that with these wonderful beef choices, I still chose fish. And I would be tempted to do it again, the Annatto-glazed Chilean Sea Bass with whipped boniato, sautéed jicama, spinach, and tomato in a white port sauce was so wonderful. Believe it or not, it tasted even better than it sounds, and for the rest of our culinary week, it became the benchmark for sea bass among all the food writers. After dinner, the Gaucho Bar offers fine spirits and cigars in an estate drawing room environment with a view of the ocean.
TWO DRAGONSIf I lived anywhere near Miami, this would be my local Oriental restaurant. When I get an Oriental craving, I can never decide whether to have Chinese, Thai, or Japanese. At Two Dragons, I don't have to decide—I can get all three. Actually, you do have to decide, and reading the menu can be like the Cliff notes for an Oriental cookbook. It is all here. And even before you order, you know you want to come back. And the prices are so surprisingly affordable, you certainly will.
The sushi rolls were huge and memorable. Two people could easily split one—even if they love sushi. The Thai food was the first I had after an extensive three-week trip to Thailand, and I was really surprised how authentic it was, just tastefully toned-down, spice-wise, for the American palate.
55 THE RESTAURANTA reincarnation of the popular Strand when the creative chef Michelle Bernstein went to open AZUL at the new Madarin Oriental in Miami, this restaurant is renamed 55 THE RESTAURANT and now led by Sara Mair and Jason Strom. Sara, a Jamaican who mirrors that Caribbean nation's ardor and near obsession with food, loves the very act of cooking. "Cooking comes from the heart and soul, it is the love that makes it taste good," says Mair. Strom is a Connecticut Yankee and shares a philosophy of "let the ingredients speak for themselves," the mantra of this dynamic duo. A terrific partnering of yin and yang—culinary expertise coupled with savvy kitchen management—is Mair and Strom's recipe for success. Try the Fire Roasted Lamb Chop with an herbed potato soufflé and fig sauce. Then finish up with their classic crème brulée with a chocolate garnish.
NORMAN'S
I was lucky enough to take a cooking class from Norman Van Aken. If you ever get a chance to take a class from him, jump at the opportunity. He is so much fun to watch, and takes great pleasure in teaching. But I would still just rather let him make the food so I can sit back and enjoy. If you are reading this article and your mouth is watering, order his cookbook, Norman's New World Cuisine.
The recipes are not hard to make, but finding the ingredients outside Miami can be more of a challenge. But Chef Norman can help you with that, too. His website offers ingredients, as well.
SAMBA ROOM: A CUBAN BAR & LATIN CAFÉ
"Latin American cuisine is influenced from Spanish flavors, Afro-Cuban heritage and indigenous spices, meats and fruits of Latin America," says Bulter. "Samba Room is true to those roots but expands the horizon with brighter tropical flavors made of fresh fruits, coconuts, mangos and plantains. In Latin Fusion, peppers complete the palate, adding authentic spice, but not tremendous heat. This food is fun, stylish, almost taboo."
AL CARBONI love the story of the mysterious Dona Maria al Carbon, the inspiration for the restaurant concept that bears her name. Dona Maria al Carbon was, they say, the light of the village, a gracious soul of Argentine and Mediterranean descent. She had a love once, a man of the sea who voyaged for weeks on end. Each time he sailed away, she kept the wood burning so that when he returned, he would be met by the welcoming aromas of her cooking. And so it went; he sailed, she cooked, he returned...until the day of the black storm. That morning he set sail...but never returned. Still, she continued to cook, as if the aromas would somehow bring him home again. Then something wondrous happened. Friends and family, lured by the enchanting aromas, came to her kitchen. Soon her grief was replaced by the joy of sharing her lovingly prepared chutneys, breads and grilled specialties with others. Over time, the house of al Carbon became a beloved gathering place for those who sought an exquisite repast. Although she has long since been reunited with her man of the seas, her indelible spirit lives on. Open for dinner only, this wonderful restaurant in the SHERATON BAL HARBOUR is a must return on my list.
RED SQUARE
The menu is an eclectic hybrid of Russian and French-European flavors mixed with the comfort of classic American cuisine. The food is hearty without being too heavy. Of course, no Russian meal would be complete without vodka and caviar.
I have one question that puzzled me the whole week I ate my way through Miami. How do all these gorgeous women with perfect bodies manage to stay that way with all the tempting food? If I find out the answer, I promise to share. But I am not sure I will share any of my luscious chocolate desserts with you. GREAT GUIDEBOOKS AND COOKBOOKSAdventure Guide to Southeast Florida LONELY PLANET FLORIDA
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My next big trip is to South America, and I only hope the food is as good as it is at the Gaucho Room in Loews Miami Beach Hotel. David Rosengarten wrote in Gourmet Magazine that this is where he would go if he only had one night to eat in Miami. I agree, and would like to eat there more than once on a trip. Luckily, I dined with a bunch of foodies who are very good about sharing so I got to try many of the delicious dishes.
The Argentine theme showcases excellent Argentine beef that has recently been allowed into the United States, along with domestic beef, cooked over specially designed hardwood grills to highlight the flavor of the meat. You can choose from Argentinean Meat or American Meat on the menu, in a way that made me think of choosing wines from a certain destination. I can't think of another restaurant that lets you choose the origin of your meat.
1601 Collins Avenue in the Loews Miami Beach Hotel
Overlooking an Oriental garden, the décor is elaborate yet cozy. I was with my mother, but we still enjoyed our intimate "booth." There is a great selection of creative, funky Oriental drinks. I don't mean they taste funky, but whoever made up the menu had fun writing it, and I am sure you will have more fun if you try one of the elaborate concoctions.
Norman Van Aken is one of the Mango Gang, the young chefs who put South Florida on the culinary map. He combines local ingredients in creative ways and never ceases to delight the palate of his loyal followers. All my Florida foodie friends consider Norman's one of their favorite places. His culinary philosophy is "to create a marriage of the sensual and rustic with the classic and intellectual in a celebration of the various places we live."
There are over 160 recipes in this book—for everything from cocktails and sunset snacks (Machete Colada, Calypso Calamari) to soups (White Bean, Chorizo, and Collard Greens Caldo; Cracked-Hacked Conch Chowder with Saffron, Coconut, and Oranges) and seviches, salads, and paellas. Norman's fish fare is unforgettable—Rhum and Pepper-Painted Grouper, Grilled Florida Spiny Lobster with a Spicy Cumin Seed Drizzle, Yuca-Crusted Florida Striped Bass—and his recipes for birds, such as Roasted Stuffed Game Hen with Pearl Onions and Sherry, are breathtaking. And then there are Our Just Desserts: A Cubano Bread Pudding Brûlée, Havana Bananas with Barbados Rhum, a Stir-fry of Exotic Tropical Fruits in Aromatic Spiced Crêpes.
Evoking memories of a 1960s Jet Set bistro, Samba Room rumbaed into South Beach and became an instant hit. Boss Nova dance rhythms, chile-laden, mango-infused aromas, palm trees and white tablecloths are a few of the sophisticated elements you'll enjoy here. A haven of pre-Castro Havana culture, cuisine and ambiance, Samba room combines South American traditions with a fusion of Latin flavors designed by chef Phil Butler, a 28-year old South Florida native who grew up to be a culinary genius in my book. He has been featured at the James beard House for his Latin Fusion Cuisine.
Everything works at this restaurant. Maybe the Russians should take a lesson from the management. The décor with its "Red Square" graphic is tastefully carried out throughout the restaurant. The menu is unique and a good introduction to Russian food, and the food is very good. (Maybe better than what I have heard they serve in Russia.)
MMMMiami—Tempting Tropical Tastes for Home Cooks Everywhere