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Cruising in a luxurious, award winning, Moorings 4500 Catamaran over the clear, incredibly blue water of the British Virgin Islands, one can truly experience the exhilarating feeling of escape. This playground for modern day sailors is a mere eighty miles from Puerto Rico, and flying time is only three and one-half hours from New York City.

In 1493, Columbus discovered the sixty islands, islets and cays that comprise the British Virgin Islands and, with more imagination than most of us can muster, named them for the virgins of St. Ursula. This cluster of islands is so strategically located that it is commonly called "the place to everywhere." Knowing this is why pirates of old like Sir Francis Drake, Calico Jack, Blackbeard and Bluebeard, among others, set sail for the sparkling, warm waters of this small piece of ocean. They enjoyed the facts that while in these waters the sails on their galleons easily caught the constant breezes of the Trade Winds and that there were many places to toss anchor and remain hidden from ships they wished to attack. The British, Dutch, French and Danish pirates gathered here to prey on each other, and especially to swoop down on the Spanish, whose treasure ships were laden with Mexican and Peruvian gold on its way to Spain.

The noise of cannon fire and the dash of swashbuckling have ceased, and the islands retain a serene atmosphere no longer common in many of the other Caribbean islands. There is comparatively little traffic, and buildings can be built no higher than the tallest palm trees–about two stories high. The Governor is still appointed by the Queen of England, and an air of order and decorum is evident. Even though the islanders are easygoing and laid-back, dining out in restaurants or wandering the streets shirtless or in a bikini is not considered acceptable behavior.

This ancient battleground, now playground, is sought after by people from all points of the globe looking for some of the best snorkeling, Scuba diving and sailing in the world. Many call this cluster of islands the water sport capital of the Caribbean, with one of the five best dive spots in the Western Hemisphere.

The majority of the islands are accessible right up to the shoreline, and there are enough underwater rock ledges, tunnels, caves and overhangs abundant with sea life to keep the most jaded diver interested. There are fan corals, sponges, hundreds of reef fish and stingray plus the usual crab and lobster. There are dive sites to excite the beginner as well as the most experienced diver.

One dive of special interest is the famous wreck of the Royal Mail Steam Packet Company ship, The Rhone. During a hurricane in 1867 she broke in half, sank to the bottom and now lies in one of the British Virgin Islands' national underwater parks. Rated as a two-tank dive to eighty feet, the ship is in remarkably good condition, with interior rooms, crows-nest and cargo hold intact to explore. Moviegoers would have seen this ship and dive site in the film The Deep with Jacqueline Bisset. Another interesting dive is off Anegada Island. Its massive reefs have claimed over 300 shipwrecks as its prize, and it is a diver's dream come true.

The Moorings Yacht Company

There are several ways to be in the midst of all this action and one of the best ways is by hiring a Moorings crewed yacht or by being your own captain on one of their bareboats. Living on the yacht and planning your own day's schedule to the cays, bays and secluded island beaches puts you in charge whether with crew or bareboat. You may want to catch as many dives as possible one day and the next day to just enjoy the freedom to do nothing. The choice would be yours and not one from the latest travel package.

The Moorings Yacht Charter Company launched its first ship in the islands in 1969. It now has 770 yachts in 22 locations around the world, and its headquarters are in Tortola, British Virgin Islands. One of the company's more popular ships is the award winning 4500 Catamaran. It is designed with a tall rig and shallow mini keel, making it easy to handle, a Moorings-perfected SailMate for easy mainsail handling, GPS and auto pilot, and powerful twin Yanmar, 50 HP, naturally aspirated, four-cylinder engines. However, passengers aboard her simply know that their staterooms with private heads are large and comfortable. There is a motorized dinghy for those trips to shore or for diving off into one of the crystalline coves to inspect the incredible scenery above and below the water. There is air conditioning for pleasant sleeping and a porthole over the bunk for watching the star-filled night sky or for listening to the gentle lapping of the ocean as the movement rocks one to sleep. If you hire a crewed yacht, you will be fortunate if your captain is either Roger or Penny Sparks. Once aboard a crewed yacht, they will treat you royally from morning till night with great food and drink and, best of all, great company. And as the Moorings Company likes to say, "There are no costume parties, no obligatory midnight snacks, no arts and crafts classes and no cruise director."

The Moorings with Audubon Magazine are sponsoring a joint "eco-flotilla" in December called the Audubon Grenadines Flotilla. On this diverse trip of the islands, there is a choice of bareboat or Crewed yacht. Guests will meet in St Lucia December 2nd and leave on December 3rd for the islands of St. Vincent, Bequia, and the Tobago Cays. A guest speaker and guide from Audubon will be aboard the lead yacht. The trip will be fun for the non-birdwatcher as well, with experiences like the Pitons, National Rain Forest of St. Lucia, the Falls of Baleine, hiking on St Vincent, sunning on the beaches of Bequia and Horseshoe Reef. The Moorings has planned cocktail parties and other fun surprises along the way.

Another option might be to divide your trip between living on your Moorings yacht and staying in one of the excellent resorts in the area. Some are in such exclusive locations that they can only be reached by boat.

Bitter End Yacht Club

One such resort hugs a mile of beach and waterfront in the North Sound, Virgin Gorda. It is the Bitter End Yacht Club, whose beachfront and hillside villas overlook the resort's own deep-water harbor; and if one is looking for water sports this is the place to be. There are as many water-related activities here as anyone could wish for, such as sailing, snorkeling, Scuba, sailing school, windsurfing, fishing, kayaking, and bareboating. Boat people stay here for the great sailing that awaits them, while others come to learn how to sail. The Bitter End Yacht Club is family-friendly and has a special Junior Sailing program for teens age 12-17. For non-sailors there are the beaches, the outdoor swimming pool, Champagne Cruises, and the Sunset Sail. Evening meals under the stars on the Almond Walk are accompanied by lively Caribbean music and dancing.

Anegada Island

For a change of pace and only 14 miles away from The Bitter End is Anegada Island. The Spanish called it the "Drowned One" because it is so flat that it can barely been seen even from close range. Its highest point is 27 feet above sea level with only eleven miles of land as its length and three miles at its widest. These long, lovely, uncrowded, coral sand beaches have colorful names like Cow Wreck, Windless Bight, Loblolly Bay and Flash of Beauty. This is the island with more than 300 wrecked men-of-war ships of the line and Spanish galleons waiting to be explored. Angel Fish, Trigger Fish, Grunts, Conch and lobster swim in their water-filled holds and wheelhouses. Anegada is famous in the area for its fresh lobster. If you have the urge to savor the real Caribbean flavor, then a stay at the Anegada Reef Hotel is a must. Laid out in motel fashion, the rooms are decorated in a charming island style with cheerful flowered prints and wicker furniture. Even though each room has air conditioning, all have a romantic ceiling fan. Each has an oceanfront or garden view with access to hammocks for those lazy afternoons. The Reefs outdoor beach bar is a gathering place for people staying on the island or just passing through to hear the latest news or to sample a Rum Smoothy made from Grandma's secret recipe.

Another great place for fresh lobster and typical Caribbean dishes is the Cow Wreck Beach Bar and Grill. The atmosphere is as relaxed as a grand picnic, with tables and chairs on the sand and a canvas awning overhead. The bar is lit with amber light bulbs and decorated with cow skulls much as one might see in an Old West saloon. Cow Wreck's chef, Belle, fries up tasty Conch fritters; and, in addition to seafood, one can try all the favorites including baby-back ribs and chicken.

Biras Creek Resort

For the perfect romantic escape, Biras Creek Resort should be at the top of the list. It is nestled in the hills in Virgin Gorda, with views of the Caribbean Sea, Atlantic Ocean, and the North sound and can only be reached by boat. In this idyllic setting, the emphasis is on understated luxury and on privacy. In fact, civilization is a full ten-minute boat ride away. The open-air restaurant and terrace allow one to view the harbor and surrounding hills, plus providing a front row seat for those magnificent sunsets. All guest suites are designed for total privacy, with bedroom, sitting room and a sensuous garden shower. Bicycles are an appendage to each suite for those times of exploring the gardens, marina and private white sand beach at Deep Bay, with its open-air pavilion, thatched roof huts and bar.

The Biras Creek restaurant prepares continental and Caribbean cuisine in the open-air candlelit dining room, and each meal ends with the traditional English port and Stilton. Another English tradition observed is the refreshing four o'clock tea served daily on the open stone terrace.

The hotel can arrange shopping tours, glass-bottom-boat tours, jet skiing, Scuba diving, crewed yacht charters and sunset sails. The romantic atmosphere makes it an ideal place for weddings large or small. An intimate wedding, for example, can be held outdoors in a natural setting or on the 44-foot luxury yacht. After the wedding ceremony, the happy couple might wish to be marooned on a deserted beach for the day with only a gourmet picnic basket prepared by the hotel staff.

Little Dix Bay Resort

Tranquility and elegance might be the best words to describe the old guard getaway of Little Dix Bay in Virgin Gorda, as it is one of the prestigious Rosewood hotels. It is tucked in along a crescent-shaped bay with white, soft sand beaches and surrounded by a half ring of forested hillsides. Accommodations are scattered over a well-tended garden landscape of Sea Grape, Oleander, palm trees and shaded walkways, so that guest rooms appear to be an extension of the very same garden.

The ambience created by its natural beauty and attentive staff keep guests coming back again and again. They like the atmosphere of relaxed formality whereby, when the sun goes down, men are asked to dress in collared shirts and slacks and women "in suitable evening attire."

There are many complimentary activities. Besides the usual water sports, there are tennis and tennis clinics, nightly movies, early morning coffee, afternoon tea and a daily New York Times facsimile.

The Baths

Very near the hotel is Virgin Gorda's most famous site known as The Baths. Giant boulders seam to have been tossed about helter-skelter over the water making any number of grottos and sheltered pools for snorkeling and wading. There is a maze of narrow paths to squeeze through and rocks to climb rather like some primitive Flintstone fun park.

For more information:

The Moorings, 800-535-7289; Fax, 727-530-9747; www.moorings,com

Audubon Magazine, www.audubon.com

Bitter End Yacht Club International, 800-872-2392, e-mail, binfo@beyc.com ; www.beyc.com

Anegada Reef Hotel, (284) 495-8002; Fax, (284) 495-9362; e-mail, aneghtl@surfbvi.com

Biras Creek Hotel, 800-223-1108; Fax, (310) 440-4220; e-mail, caribisles@aol.com

Little Dix Bay Hotel, 888-767-3966; Fax, (284) 495-5661; www.rosewoodhotels.com

Cape Air, 800-352-0714; www.flycapeair.com

PHOTO CREDITS: Mary Ashcraft, Moorings Yacht Company, Biras Creek, Cape Air

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