Italy, according to Erica Jong, is a place where the seven deadly sins seem somehow less deadly. It�s a country that understands every kind of passion, including enraptured romance, the adoration of art, "sweetheart shopping" and every other form of �la dolce vita�.

You will find the city of Milan an excellent place to pursue your lover, with or without committing any sins. For a weekend of pure joy, check into The Four Seasons Milano, one of the most romantic hotels in the world. Your every need will be catered to by a staff that is composed of about 200 attentive, well-trained and genuinely nice people.

This boutique hotel was once a nunnery, but don�t let that little thought dampen your ardor or appreciation of your surroundings. It was also a private residence palazzo, but in 1993 the elegant colonnaded structure was rebuilt as a 98-room luxury hotel. Hand-blown glass lamps from Murano and terracotta vases holding dark green box-tree plants provide shapely accents to the understated elegance of the public rooms.

And, oh, what a public! Pavorotti, Domingo, Carreras, Sophia Loren, and anyone else who happens to be in town, whether for art, opera, pleasure or the business that makes Milan famous—style shows for fashion, fabrics, furniture and so on—fill these entertaining ground floor lobbies, reception rooms, bars and restaurants.

It�s a perfect hotel—really more like an inn—for lovers. The textures of the spaces create an epicurean atmosphere. Decor is understated, elegant and brilliant to the touch, including pale yellow walls, Irish wool rugs, carved pearwood furniture that feels like silk and sycamore tables the color of virgin olive oil. The sheets, the finest Frette linens, are changed and turned down twice a day. From floor-to-ceiling windows, you can gaze below at the lovely courtyard garden and cloistered paths.

Some of the suites have whirlpool tubs and fireplaces; all rooms have VCRs with a large library of video titles, a hifi system, well-stocked mini bar, fresh fruit, flowers and, of course, a plate of home-made chocolates.

Bathrooms are elegant: Carrera marble, heated floors and towel racks, multi-directional shower and a separate bathtub with a foot-wide surround. No worry about your wine glass falling off!

Don�t ever want to leave the beautiful evocative room? Naturally room service is available, but if you prefer to watch your special food cooked to order, a chef will come to you and create meals of bliss—lobster, duck, truffles and trifles. Whatever you desire, including Champagnes and fine wines, will be served.

When you and Lover Boy are ready for outings, remember that during a weekend of passion, there is a moment in time when "nothing is too good for my honey". It�s called "Sweetheart Shopping Time": act on it.

Get thee away from the nunnery and towards a passle of Italian designer stores that line the streets between Four Seasons, the Opera House and the Duomo. You�ll find shoes, handbags, hats, scarves, jewelry, lamps, furniture, fabrics and of course beautiful Italian haute couture, for men, women and (think about this) bambini.

You are sure to find many loving mementoes in the Golden Quadrangle, the collective name for Milan�s four most expensive shopping streets. Here is an arpeggio of famous names: Armani, Buccellati, Crottini, Diego Della Valle, Ferragamo, Gianni Versace, Krizia, et cetera et cetera.

For an adventure, ride the green trams through the spiderweb-shaped city (the elaborate Duomo, with its myriad spires is at the center). Invaded twice by the Austrians, Milan, city of style and design, tries to out New York New York. Avenues radiate from the center, crisscrossing streets and buildings of many styles, from medieval, baroque and Secessionist to modern chrome and glass, skyscrapers of Italian big business. Explore some of the colorfully named neighborhoods: Magenta, Porta Venezia, Brera, and especially Navigli.

The Navigli neighborhood of trendy (and yet-to-be-discovered) clothing and furniture shops is named for the canals that were once as important as those in Venice. The original canals were the pathways for the marble that was shipped to make the elaborate cathedral. Now the banks of the canals are dotted with restaurants and nightspots and jazz clubs (some on moored canal boats). Shop here at antique and art stores for more baubles, more tokens of love.

Go for long walks with your lover through neighborhoods of palazzi that are grey and yellow, passing squares that are round and circles that are pentathlons. Be sure to visit Santa Maria della Grazie, the hidden away church that houses one of the most famous paintings in the world, The Last Supper. (Before setting out on these journeys, ask your concierge for a map and directions to churches, museums and art galleries.)

Back closer to your hotel, stop at the Cafe at the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele and enjoy caffe coretto (with �tears� of your favorite liqueur) or a Campari and soda. The flavorful aperitif was invented here, where all the world—or at least, Tutti Milano—promenades to see and be seen. Watch beautifully coiffed Italians meet and airkiss, their shoes and clothing, and even their calm English bulldogs� clothing, planned and pretty down to the last stitched detail.

In the evening at the Four Seasons, dine in at Il Teatro, named one of the top restaurants in Milan. Classic, nouvelle, vegetarian and even low-fat Italian dishes please everyone from Pavorotti to Kate Moss. When Richard Muti is not conducting at La Scala, he often can be found here.

Indulge yourselves in fanciful meals—try a rich Italian red wine and the osso buco, risotto all milanese, zabaglione and end with some grappa, Italian brandy—to be followed by any other great passions that you care to pursue.

You�ll always remember Milan, and chances are eccelente that the simpatici people at the Four Seasons Milano will remember you when you and your lover return. And you will.

RESOURCES

Contact The Four Seasons International at 1-800 332.3442, or visit their site online. Alitalia Airlines has frequent connections to Milan and all parts of Italy.