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Lose yourself in love and escape to the Moana Beachcomber Parkroyal. Long idolized by dreamers and romantics alike, the island of Bora Bora offers more than just romance and sugary white sand beaches. It also offers excitement and adventure.

Bora-Bora's exotic name alone makes the journey here worthwhile. Its unique geography lives on in the minds of anyone who has visited. Mount Otemanu sits at the center of the island like a giant tombstone in the sky overlooking its main feature: the world-famous, turquoise blue—multihued lagoon that shimmers radiantly. Huge reef and a protective strand of offshore motus ring the entire lagoon scattered along large corals, making it easy for couples to lay claim to a private islet for a day. Bora Bora's palm-lined white sand beaches offer a vacation setting that is hard to top anywhere on earth.

Our first glimpse of Bora Bora did nothing to dispute James Michener's opinion that this is the most beautiful island in the world. We were ecstatic, and we weren't even in the water yet.

The green mountain's craggy features came clearly into view, becoming recognizable as Mt. Otemanu, a ragged remnant of a massive volcano that juts 2,400 feet out of the Pacific, dramatically defining the island of Bora-Bora. This island's stunning beauty resulted from an ancient volcanic erosion, resulting in shark's teeth ridges rising above a narrow lagoon. Several ultra luxury resorts line these shores, many featuring over-the-water bungalows.

For a week we plied the sea lanes of French Polynesia onboard NEMO Polynesia, a charter that offers the ultimate stress-free sailing vacations to some of the most beautiful island settings. Yacht charters not only make an exceptional vacation, they also bring you island treasures accessible only by boat. Catamaran yachting offers comfort, space and at the same time the flexibility to discover French Polynesia intimately and at your own pace. It is also a great value for your money in these islands and a fresh approach to cruising, making it a nice alternative for those seeking a new experience.

For our first wedding anniversary, I conjured up something magical and managed to keep it a secret from my husband Rob: a weekend at the devastatingly romantic Moana Beachcomber Parkroyal Hotel in Bora Bora. Set on the white sands of Matira Beach, it is just a four-hour sail from Raiatea or 45-minute flight from Papeete. Often referred to as "The Island of Dream," this small island is the perfect romantic escape.

We arrived on this secluded oasis late afternoon just as the sun was setting in. This paradisical island defines the word "splendor" with its seductive Polynesian style ambiance. As we stepped into the gracious lobby, the staff greeted us with Polynesian Mai Tais, warm hand towels and a gentle Ia orana!

Since I had already checked us in from the Nemo, a chatty hostess showed us our breathtaking accommodations. We meandered throughout the blue lagoon, lush with tropical foliage throughout this tiny village of 102 suites (41 are over-the-water-bungalows) surrounded by tiare and bird of paradise.

Our spectacular, secluded "fare" over-the-water-bungalow was an unabashedly romantic retreat. These thatched suites seem to have been designed with honeymooners in mind. We have a sweeping view of the lagoon from the simple but elegant sitting room, and double Pandanus doors open onto a bedroom with a bamboo-trimmed, king-for-a-day bed covered with hundreds of freshly cut flowers. A dressing room and bathroom decorated with live vanilla plants scenting the air ensured that our every creature comfort was met.

Built in authentic Polynesian style, the suites are a jewel of traditional Polynesian architecture. Designed with the finest materials and finished in exquisite tropical wood, they are topped with elaborately hand-tied thatch roofs made of paeve. The bungalows, raised on stilts a few feet above the sand in the quiet serene lagoon, keep out some, but not all, wandering Polynesian crabs. The deck opens eastward, displaying dramatic South Pacific sunrises and spectacular moonrises above the placid water. These brilliant sky scenes will be forever sketched in our memory.

The luxury accommodations are located in quiet, secluded areas for couples seeking privacy. We appreciated the hotel's honeymoon signature welcome: delicately sweet fresh coconut, a white polo for Rob, and for me, a beautiful white pareu—the wraparound, sarong-like garment worn in several different styles by both men and women here. We also received two mouse pads picturing our bungalow in the glow of a gorgeous Polynesian sunset. Who could complain?

Shortly after our arrival and with our appetites ravenous after our four-hour sail from Raitea to get here, we were ready to dine. We strolled to the restaurant, for an ultra romantic, candlelit dinner. All the way enjoying the scent of tropical flowers scenting the cool night air, tiare (Gardenia taitensis, the Tahitian national flower), a profusion of bougainvillea, hibiscus, ginger, croton, frangipani, ferns, jasmine, and exotic species of orchids, closed in, surrounding us with their heady perfume. Reality seemed suspended here.

In the main dining room, scanning the menu, we unanimously decided on a local spiny lobster. As we raised glasses of sweet vahine & Mai Tai, our dinner fit for Polynesian kings was served. The resort's French chef creates the finest meals, indulging all the senses with his sublime and imaginative blend of French culture with native Polynesian influences. An essential experience is dining on fresh-from-the lagoon fish in the understated elegance of the restaurant.

Menus here feature something Polynesian, grilled parrot fish or Mahi-Mahi caught fresh from the seas surrounding, lobster shrimp; something vegetarian, like sautéed vegetables with a Tahitian sauces; exotic, poisson cru, baked salmon and a variety of local seafood's. The cuisine created is excellent. Lunches and hors d'oeuvres served al fresco facing the lagoon. Nightly dinner specials and the nightly grill, set up around the lagoon, which feature seafood. Every menu seems to revolve around the abundant seafood. The resort offers two dining venues decorated in beautifully designed and relaxing Polynesian décor. adjacent to the beach and gracious landscaped terrace, both venues overlook the majestic lagoon of Bora Bora.

During dinner, musicians played to the rhythm of Tahitian Teore and ukulele with a passionate beat and dancers began their percussive, unabashedly sensual dances. Stunning Tahitian women with their dark eyes and welcoming smiles undulate to the music, with brilliant red hibiscus in their hair and sarongs slung low around their hips. They performed brief dances throughout the dining room, while rubber-legged male dancers rapidly shifted their weight from one foot to the other. It doesn't surprise me that the missionaries banned these native dances. A fitting way to end such a memorable day in Bora Bora.

While waiting for dessert, I took a good look around the room and realized all these love-or sun-struck couples weren't here to see and be seen, as in many top restaurants. Indeed, they only had eyes for each other. We felt like spies in the house of love. The Moana Beachcomber Parkroyal is appealing to honeymooners and anniversary celebrants like ourselves, who especially enjoyed midnight skinny-dipping in front of our bungalow with uttermost privacy. The suites have a ladder off the terrace that allow you to swim in the lagoon just outside your bedroom.

We chose a very special place, where a lover is suggested and a very good book advisable to solo travelers.

Once or twice in the night, we stepped out to marvel at the stars, mountain and white-sand beaches, where gentle waves lap on the sand and breakers crash on a reef. The fresh air and brilliant days and nights make swimming under a blanket of stars a bit like heaven.

Fabrice Bohbote, the hotel GM and another French expatriate, had traveled to Bora Bora 12 years ago and still finds himself here. He called our first evening to welcome us to the hotel and asked, "Have you turned on your Polynesian TV yet?" We almost laughed at him, as TV would be the last thing on our minds while in heaven. He then explained: the coffee table in the living room had a removable top so that we could feed the fish in the water just below. We were mesmerized by our personal aquarium, which was illuminated at night and gave us a clear view directly into the lagoon below.

The next morning we slept in late, then slipped on our new Moana pareus over our swimsuits and padded our way straight into the lagoon. We spent our second day in the bungalow, not wanting to leave our romantic new home. To surprise your love one, have breakfast delivered by a flower- decked outrigger canoe after your first morning dip with the hotel's long trumpet fishes. Organize it the night before. You can also have a romantic sunset dinner delivered to your balcony.

Their regular breakfast buffet is served in the thatch-roofed dining room nestled between the dining room and over-water bungalows. Offerings include: mango, pineapples, bananas, papayas and watermelons. There was also a variety of freshly baked breads, omelets and other egg dishes, coffee and tea, and fruit juices to satisfy your early morning thirst.

Most guests spent their days snorkeling among the stilted bungalows and surrounding coral gardens. When you need a break, you can also slurp on fine fruit shakes at the "thirst aid" station.

The next morning, we left early to meet our group of sailing buddies for a snorkel. We tackled a gullied, red-dirt trail, overgrown with vegetation, partially paved and lined with flamboyant trees dripping with red blooms. You can wander the dramatic emerald isle for hours without seeing another soul. You can explore the island's 19-mile ring road by moped, bicycle, auto, horseback or foot. The road around the coastal plains of Bora Bora around the jagged, verdant mountains climb almost vertically from the lagoon. Mt. Otemanu is considered unclimbable from any angle.

In town, we could hear the buzzing sounds on doors marked "Salon des Tatouges." Tattooes originated in Polynesia, and before colonization men wore an assortment of them and were considered less than desirable without many of them decorating their bodies. A man's family origin was tattooed on his right side while his victories and awards on his left. Officially banned by the missionaries and government, tattoos have experienced a resurgence in recent years. Modern tattooists use an electric needle, but the original way was a shark's tooth and mallet. A foaming reef encircles the 80 km. multi-colored lagoon, three times larger than its land mass with luminous blue-green water that varies with depth. Bora Bora is dotted with motus—tiny islets that look like cartoonists' stereotypical desert islands. In the middle, Nemo sits at anchor, stone-still in the bright sun.

My eyes scan to devour the scene greedily, savoring this precise moment in our lives, never losing sight of Mt. Otemanu. As we motored in the cat, beckoning views called from every angle. Bora Bora's green peaks soared into the wispy clouds. We crossed the lagoon, heading toward a palm-studded reef islet. After slowing to a sandy anchorage, we eased ourselves into the water and followed our captain towards the lagoon's tidal channel. Although some people consider it inundated with tourists, we hardly noticed anyone. I wanted to savor every moment in this magical island.

We sailed off to a Motu ( the word for the tiny, palm-studded islands that dot the region) and snorkeled around various clusters of coral, searching for underwater delights. At the spectacular Bora-Bora Lagoonarium. We were content to snorkel in the clear, warm water and shallow reefs that created an aquarium teeming with colorful tropical fish. Snorkeling slowly, we saw droves of fish in myriad colors, and gasped with wonder at these beautiful creatures.

We also swam with well-fed reef sharks and large manta rays. Several rays glided effortlessly toward us, lazily flapping their six-foot-span fins. They circled us, awaiting a squid snack. Taking care to avoid their long tails, we enticed them and black-tipped reef sharks with bits of raw fish. We approached and stroked the rays' velveteen backs, their large gill spiracles pulsing behind searching eyes as they gobbled handouts with their flat, narrow mouths. We had not imagined that these magnificent animals were accustomed to humans in their eons-old environment and that we could snorkel with those prehistoric looking creatures.

With a gentle attitude, strong legs and a good pair of fins, you will be allowed to approach and even accompany them in their daily patrols. Past the most beautiful and colorful coral cluster formations with numerous butterfly fish, tangs, urchins, parrot fish, and sea cucumbers swim along.

Our visit here was made more memorable when, to our surprise, we came face to face with six black-tip sharks. We hastily swam back when along came a five-foot gray reef shark—more dangerous than the common black-tips. We just couldn't stop marveling how lucky we were to experience a brief encounter with these beauties and the rare opportunity to see the natural behavior of this unique animal. Only when they flapped out of view did we realize that the nearby coral formations and huge colorful fishes were also deserving of our attention. Rob surfaced with his mask on and said angel fish!

Aqua Safari

At 4:00 p.m., our time in paradise was running out, and a friendly French expatriate/guide from Bora-Bora Diving Center had set a final afternoon dive just a five minute boat ride from our bungalow. And our first Aqua Safari. The experience was like jumping into a private aquarium where schools of tiny fish of every color and configuration surrounded us. Our guide gave us each a baguette, but we protested, saying we had just eaten a tasty Poisson Cru. "Good joke," he said. "It's not for you to eat but for our fish friends, and being French they want baguettes." Some, like the parrot fish, looked they'd flopped around for a time on Gauguin's wet palette, becoming underwater works of art. With 82-degree water and visibility of 70 feet, we weren't complaining. This was the perfect cap to an unforgettable week in French Polynesia.

It's common knowledge that these bungalows are pricey, and yes, for such an amount we could have stayed longer at a lesser resort. But on your honeymoon or anniversary, why not experience the ultimate luxury in paradise? Of all the members of the "Small Luxury Hotels of the World" where we've been, with money no object, we'd pick the Bora Bora Moana Beachcomber Parkroyal again and again.

Reality unfortunately had to surface. Our flight home was up in an hour, and it was time to leave this insular paradise we had found. As our plane lifted into the heavens, Rob whispered to me, "Little one: this is my idea of paradise." And who could possibly argue? We watched Bora Bora disappear, surrounded by aqua blue waters that are transparent even from the air. That evening, so ended for us a week in the unspoiled paradise that is French Polynesia—where coconut palms and pandanus still stand taller than the Bora Bora Moana Beachcomber Parkroyal.

"There is something truly magical about this secret pocket of the world. If you can't be romantic in Polynesia, you just might not have that gene in you. Come and see for yourself that there is truly paradise on earth.

Sailing around this enchanting piece of the world

Yacht charters not only make for an exceptional vacation, they also bring you island treasures accessible only by boat. Catamaran yachting offers guests comfort, space, and at the same time the flexibility to discover French Polynesia intimately and at their own pace. Also a great value for your money in these islands. You can select either Monohull, Power or Catamaran available for charter by the leaders in crewed yacht chartering, offering over 500 yachts worldwide in the most exotic destinations. Yachts ranging in size from 56 feet to 85 feet and their crews are dedicated to serving the luxury crewed charter market, offering unparalleled cuisine, water sports equipment & amenities. This fresh approach to cruising as a vacation option makes a nice alternative for those who have already tried the cruise line experience.

Ready to sail

VPM Richleigh Yachts P.O. Box 550070
Ft Lauderdale, Fla 33355
Toll Free: 1-800-578 4348 / Local: 954-236 8800 / Fax : 954-236 8822 www.tahiticharter.com

Booking the Charter: you can go directly to their Internet site to obtain information, sailing dates, and pricing for Tahiti. Unlike cruise lines, VPM encourages customers to call them directly to book charter. The charter crew of three is bilingual—English and French—though the majority of passengers are American.

Prices: The Tahiti charter starting at: $1288 low season: June 1- Sept. 30 dual occupancy on yacht, $450 plane ticket from Oakland or LA (plus taxes), $150 internal air .High season: Oct. 1- May 31 $1433, $500 flt., $150 internal air. Single rates available on request. Price includes: round-trip air fare, charter rental and land lodging, two nights hotel in the Beachcomber Parkroyal in Tahiti, airport transfers, internal air Tahiti/Huahine and Bora Bora/Tahiti, ferry transfer and tour of Moorea, seven day cruise aboard the yacht, all meals including table wines, jeep safari in Huahine and dinner and show in Tahaa.

Getting there

Airlines serving Tahiti: more accessible than many Americans imagine. The flight from the West Coast takes just two hours longer than that to Honolulu. Air Tahiti Nui is the long-distance carrier, flies from L.A. to Papeete. Owning only one aircraft, their plane is booked well in advance. Excursion fares from the West Coast start at about $505. Island-hopping is simple: Air Tahiti offers frequent flight service to all the main islands (ask about the Air Pass if you plan to do a lot of island-hopping). Ferries are loads of fun-and inexpensive.

Staying there

We suggest an overnight near LAX before continuing your travels: Four Points Hotel Sheraton at Los Angeles International Airport, 9750 Airport Blvd., Los Angeles, CA, 90045
Telephone: 310-645-4600 / Fax: 310-649-7047
Le Montrose, 900 Hammond Street, West Hollywood, CA, 90069
Telephone: 310.855.1115 / 800.776.0666 / FAX 310.657.9192 / Reservations 800.776.0666

French Polynesia offers the traveler a wide variety of hotel accommodations from full-service to first-class luxury resorts. No matter where you stay, you will be embraced by Polynesia's abundant natural beauty and genuine hospitality. There are more luxury hotels in Bora Bora than elsewhere in French Polynesia, and the luxury standards are a notch or two higher as well. We opted for the Beachcomber Parkroyal Hotel chain in each island, Polynesia's premier resort and member of the "Small Luxury Hotels of the World"

In Tahiti, the Beachcomber Parkroyal Hotel is a magnificent low-rise Polynesian style resort set amongst fourteen hectares of lush tropical gardens on the edge of the lagoon. With spectacular views across the Sea of Moons to Tahiti's sister island, Moorea.

P.O. Box 6014, Faaa, Tahiti
Tel: (689) 86 51 10 / Fax: (689) 86 51 30
Jean-Marc Mocellin E-mail: tahiti@parkroyal.pf

In Bora Bora, the Moana Beachcomber Parkroyal Fabrice Bohbote, Pointe Matira, PO Box 156, Bora Bora 98730
Phone: (689) 604.900 / Fax:(689) 604.999
E-mail: gm@borabora.parkroyal.pf

In Morea, the Beachcomber Parkroyal, PO Box 1019, Moorea 98729, French Polynesia
Phone: (689) 55 19 19 Fax: (689) 55 19 55
E-mail: moorea@parkroyal.pf

For a taste of paradise

Food onboard Nemo: these yachts offer some of the best food in the world. and a preference sheet, filled out before guests leave for their adventure, allows the onboard chef to cater to the likes and dislikes of each person.

In Tahiti: Lotus (60 120), a gourmet French restaurant with local Polynesian specialties. Offers the most beautiful surroundings for a gourmet dinner or a light lunch. The Tiare restaurant features an open grill as well as local and international cuisine's $53.00 dinner. Enjoy a cocktail at Lotus swim-up bar, or in the Tiki Bar, a $6.00 coke to the sound of the ukulele.

In Bora Bora: Noa Noa restaurant (604 900). Noa Noa's cuisine offers only the finest dishes, combining seafood subtlety with local island produce, to create an international and exotic cuisine featuring local entertainment. Vini Vini Bar offers light snacks savoring the fruity flavors of cocktails. On Monday and Friday evenings Tahitian cooking is demonstrated and on Tuesday and Thursday evenings you can experience a pareo tying demonstration. Bloody Mary's, Amanahune, (689) 67 72 86, an island institution, with its talcum-powder-soft sand floor. The legendary restaurant really does serve an incredibly tasty Bloody Mary.

In Tahaa: Yacht-club Marina Iti: $38.50 Dinner Robert Antoine / Local : (689)-65 69 27 / Fax: 65 63 87 E-mail: antoine@mail.pf.

Shore Excursions

You can literally design your own itinerary from an imaginative selection of energetic shore excursions ranging from para-sailing.

Bora Bora Parasail Mr. Pierre Phillipe Giraud (689) 676173 / 789710 and scuba diving to snorkeling, sea tours by outrigger canoe or helicopter tours. An ever-present option is to rent a car or bicycle and get around on your own. Activities include exploration by Land Rover.
Huahine's Afo Safari: $35 (689) 68 87 91, sailing, jet-ski tours, deep-sea fishing, and dolphin watching.
Tahaa Motu Pearl Farm: (689) 65 66 67 o Fax: 65 69 18.
The Gauguin Museum: Km. 51.2, Papeari (689) 57 10 58

Diving there

Is year-round, with water temperature averaging 82-84 degrees. For beginners, experienced instructors conduct PADI or NAUI introductory courses. Contact: Anne & Michel Condesse
Bora Bora Diving Center & The Aqua Safari $58.30 boradiving@mail.pf Tel (689) 67 71 84 or 67 74 83 or VHF channel 8.
Lagunarium: $30.00 fruit included after dive, Anau, (689) 67 71 34.

Shop to your heart's content

• There's no better way to revive memories than with a few well-chosen treasures from the islands. Take a look at The Tahiti Shop.
• Bringing a taste of Tahiti home a real delight for the gourmet. Vanilla beans can be found at vanilla plantations or public markets. Tahitian vanilla is exported world-wide because of its high quality. Kept in a plastic bag (not refrigerated) the beans will last 25 years. Use them as chefs do, flavoring fruit salads, custards rum punch or even rum. We bought ours in Huahine; you can also buy the extract, Tropical Tahitien vanille, at the airport. We really loved Noa Noa Rhum Brun and coconut chocolate chip cookies, Tahitian café vanille, Namata Tahiti thé. Tahitian beer, Hinano.
• The pareu, a colorful piece of cloth, is practically the national dress. There are more shops selling pareus than T-shirt stands. Most pareus are printed with designs inspired by the tropical scenery and the island's best buy starting at $10
• Nature's bounty: nearly all crafts in Tahiti are based on natural materials. Look for hats and baskets woven from pandanus, bowls, platters and ceremonial paddles carved from precious woods that grow in the islands
• Soft touch: Tahitian coconut oils are great as massage oils and moisturizers blended with the perfume of the Tiare, and sold under the name monoi
• Soundtracks: taking home some Tahitian music one excellent young star we found was Tapu Arii, whose authentic melodies are inspired by Tahaa. A popular local singer son of the owner of Tahaa's pearl, whose disc is called Cool Morning. He sings in Tahitian, French and English. A great gift idea. Tahiti compact disc co. Tel: 011-689-53-18-24 / Fax: 011-689-53-12-33
• The black pearl Polynesia is famous for, makes a perfect keepsake to take home from the islands. Of the world's 70 species of oysters, the rarest and finest-quality pearl oyster is the one that thrives on the Tuamotu atolls scattered east of Tahiti. Before the natural supply of these oysters was exhausted in the 1960s, natives would dive to depths of 90 feet to find them. Only one oyster in 300 would hold a natural black pearl; only one in 10,000 would be of significant size. Black pearls are now French Polynesia's most valuable export. You'll find black pearl shops in the airport, major hotels, throughout downtown Papeete, and in commercial centers of Bora Bora. Prices start at just a few dollars for small, irregular pearls, but climb to many thousand. During our stay I discovered that it was difficult to buy black pearls at a pearl farm—it's kind of like trying to buy a gallon of milk directly from a dairy farm. Most farms transport newly harvested pearls off island to grading centers.
  Tahiti Black Pearls
  (Note: Pearls are the only item where bargaining is expected.)

Travel Tips

• Language: although French is the official language of French Polynesia, most of the residents prefer Tahitian. English is widely spoken in the tourist sector
• Climate and clothing: cooled by gentle Pacific breezes, Tahiti's climate is sunny and pleasant year-round, with average temperatures around 80° Pareus and swimsuits are standard attire
• Cost of paradise: paradise doesn't come cheap—Polynesia has one of the highest costs of living
• Relative costs: you can pay up to $75 per person and up for an ordinary dinner without wine, hotel rooms go for $200 and $300 a night, and bungalows cost $800 a night and up). That's when sticker shock set in. A tiny jar of salsa $6.95, a can of dry-roasted peanuts $16, a six-pack of local Hinano beer $10, a 6-ounce fruit yogurt $3.60, $2 a coconut. On the bright side, the crusty baguettes were delicious and only 30 cents one of the few bargains we encountered on land
• Tipping: is discouraged in French Polynesia, but it is becoming an accepted practice in many areas
• Reading, etc. Passport Tahiti & Bora Bora Information free pamphlets in all languages.
  Tahiti-Polynesia Handbook
  e-mail: travel@moon.com
• For more information: Tahiti Tourist Board, (689) 50 57 16 Fax: 43 66 19 Olchon@tahiti-tourisme.pf  300 Continental Blvd., El Segundo, CA 90245; tel. (310) 414-8484, fax (310) 414-8490, Internet www.gototahiti.com
  www.tahiti-explorer.com

Bon Voyage !

Photos: Rob Kambach

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