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Wine is so old, no one knows for sure where or when it was first made. A product of yeast, like cheese and bread, it has long been considered a food by Europeans and as such always has a place on the dinner and sometimes lunch table. In the l20 years or so, more and more Americans have come to see wine as part of the dining experience.

As interest in wine has grown, so has the availability of wines from around the world. That's fine for wine experts, but confusing for many others. Deciding which wine to serve with a simple meal or at an elaborate dinner party can be intimidating, especially for the uninitiated or casual wine drinker. Often, people opt for a wine they've had before and liked rather than take a chance on something new.

While there's nothing wrong with that approach, it does tend to limit your wine horizons. To fully appreciate wine's nuances, you need to try new varieties. When pairing wines with food, some general guidelines can be very helpful. But, you don't have to stick to the rigid old rule that says you can only drink red wines with red meat and white wines with fish and poultry. Above all, never ruin your dining with wine experience by drinking something you don't like- not even in restaurants when the snobby wine steward of maitre d' is looking down his nose at you.

In general, it's best to match the body, or the weight of the wine in the mouth caused by its alcohol content, to the food. With really great steaks and other red meats, you may want a more robust wine. Fish and poultry often pair better with fruitier, softer wines. Grilled foods have a character of their own. Often they too are better matched with fruitier wines. And, many grilled white meats, fish, and vegetables go nicely with red wines.

Here are some specific examples of good wine and food matches. They should be used as guidelines, not rules. Selecting wines is like planning menus. The best choice is your choice.

Chardonnay. America's favorite white wine, Chardonnays vary in flavor significantly. They pair well with most poultry, fish and shellfish. They handle herbs well and can be served with broiled or grilled beef accompanied by a fruit salsa.

Gewurztraminer. An excellent match for foods with spicy Asian or Indian seasonings, "Gewurz" is also a natural with the holiday turkey or turkey in any form.

Pinot Gris and Pinot Grigio. This crisp wine pairs well with pasta, grilled poultry, seafood and mild fish. It's also good with dishes served with pesto sauces.

Sauvignon Blanc and Fume Blanc. Also generally crisp, dry and spicy, these wines go well with poultry, fish, especially salmon, and shellfish dishes. They're a natural with oysters and good matches for foods seasoned with tarragon. They help cut the richness of creamy sauces.

Viognier. Grilled shrimp, scallops, mild flavored fish and poultry dishes will complement this white well. Keep the seasonings mild.

Rosé wines come in many forms. Some are quite dry. Others are nearly as sweet as soda pop. They lend themselves to many food pairings and seem to go especially well with grilled foods. A dry rosé is a good match with many fish dishes, smoked poultry and Southwestern seasonings. Try a sweeter White Zinfandel with burgers or anything eaten with ketchup or a tomato-based barbecue sauce.

Cabernet Sauvignon. A natural with a great steak, it's also good with lamb seasoned with rosemary, venison and other game and duck. Lighter, younger cabs pair well with burgers, chuck and flank steak dishes and roasts.

Chianti. Italy's most well known wine, naturally goes with tomato-sauced pasta dishes. Pair it also with broiled, grilled or roasted meats flavored with Italian herbs and garlic. Caesar salad with grilled steak is a good match. It's also a great burger wine.

Merlot is one of the softer red wines. Serve it with steaks (but not the $20 variety), burgers, duck, lamb, and pork. It also goes well with rare tuna and foods flavored with balsamic vinegar.

Rhones and other reds from the South of France also vary enormously. Most lend themselves to a wide variety of foods, ranging from burgers to game hens and rich fish.

Shiraz is widely produced in Australia, but California makes some good ones, too. Most love robust foods. They hold up really well with filet mignon and other grilled red meats and game. Herbs, like rosemary, blend nicely with Shiraz.

Zinfandel is a great red meat wine. Pair it with beef, venison and other game. It's also good with pork with Greek seasonings, spicy sausages, rare tuna, duck and grilled peppers, eggplant and tomatoes.

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