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As more and more people view wine as an integral part of the dining experience and even as a food, wineries in this country are adding chefs to their staff. These culinary professionals train other chefs and home cooks not only to cook with wine, but more importantly to make wine selection a part of menu planning. This new interest in cooking on the part of wineries not only offers the winemakers a chance to promote their products, it also provides at-home cooks with a wealth of innovative and interesting recipes which prove what chefs have known for centuries, a little bit of wine helps perk up the flavor of many dishes.

When used properly, wine is a boon to cooking. It adds flavor, thus lessening the need for salt. It binds sauces, so less fat needed. It tenderizes meat, allowing less expensive cuts to be used.

Selecting wines for cooking is simple. With the exception of most fish dishes, which usually are better made with white wine, you can ignore the old rule "red wines for red meats and white wines for white meats." Most poultry, beef, veal and other meats can be prepared with either red or white wine. You don't need to cook with your best wines. In fact, an extremely old and expensive wine would be wasted in cooking. Do, however, use wines you would be willing to drink. If you wouldn't put it on the table, don't put it in the pot.

Finally, when cooking with wine, remember, more isn't necessarily better. In most dishes made with wine, treat the wine as you would herbs or other flavorings. You want the wine to add to and round out the flavor of a dish, not overpower it. You can add wine to many of your favorite, appetizer, soup, main and side dish recipes. When doing this be sure to add the wine during the cooking process, so some or all of the alcohol can cook off, leaving the rich flavor behind. Start with a little bit, taste and add more as needed. Or, if you want a totally new taste experience, try one of these recipes created by chefs at some of this country's best wineries.

MENDOCINO QUAIL SALAD WITH ORANGE-MINT DRESSING

This recipe, which also can be made with Cornish game hens, was developed for Fetzer Vineyards by California chef John Ash. Serve it with Fetzer's Sundial Chardonnay.

4 quail or 2 Cornish game hens, split and backbone flattened
1 / 2 pound mixed salad greens
1 medium orange, peeled and sectioned
Mint sprigs
10 cherry tomatoes, halved

Marinade:
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup Chardonnay
1/4 cup fresh orange juice
1/4 cup chopped onion
4 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
1 /2 teaspoon crushed white peppercorns
Pinch of salt

Vinaigrette:
4 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
1 tablespoon chopped shallots or onion
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
6 tablespoons fresh orange juice
1 teaspoon honey
1/4 cup plain low-fat yogurt
1 tablespoon oil
Salt and pepper to taste
Pinch of ground cloves

Combine and mix marinade ingredients thoroughly. Cover quail or game hens with marinade; refrigerate for at least 2 hours. Combine and mix vinaigrette ingredients. Refrigerate.

Drain and pat dry quail. Grill quail skin side own for 4 to 5 minutes over hot coals, turn and continue cooking for 2 to 3 more minutes. Or, place under broiler for 3 to 4 minutes per side. Cornish hens required 8 to10 minutes grilling or broiling per side.

Divide greens evenly on plates. Garnish with orange slices, mint sprigs and tomatoes. Top with one quail or one-half Cornish hen and dressing. Makes 4 servings.

MARINATED GOAT CHEESE WITH FRESH HERBS AND ROASTED PIMENTOS

Serve this appetizer from Jordan Vineyard and Winery with the winery's estate bottled Chardonnay.

6 small goat cheeses, aged 12 to 14 days
2 whole cloves garlic, peeled
6 black peppercorns
2 dried red chili peppers (jalapeño or cayenne)
3 sage leaves
2 sprigs thyme
1 sprig rosemary
1 bay leaf
Good quality olive oil
Roasted pimentos (recipe follows)

Put all ingredients except pimentos in a jar and cover with olive oil. Marinate in the refrigerator for about 2 weeks. Will keep for months. Bring cheese to room temperature before serving.

To serve: Place a triangle of pimento on plate and place a cheese on the triangle. Spoon over several tablespoons of olive oil from the jar and decorate with a small amount of herbs from jar.

To roast pimentos: Place pimentos on an open flame or under broiler until black on all sides. Place them in a plastic bag or paper bag. Close and wait for 10 minutes. Peel and cut into triangles.

DEVILED HAMBURGERS

Serve this simple but delicious recipe from Sterling with the winery's Pinot Noir or a young Beaujolais.

1 pound ground chuck
3 tablespoons grated onion
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
2 teaspoons hot prepared mustard
2 cloves garlic, finely minced
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
½ teaspoon cayenne pepper
Salt

Combine ground meat and all spices except salt. Handle the meat gently and form into 4 round patties. The meat mixture should just hold together.

Heat a lightly oiled cast iron skillet or stove top griddle. Sprinkle it with salt and when the salt starts to brown add the meat patties. Sear the patties on one side; then flip with a spatula and brown on other side. Cook until desired doneness. Serve at once on toasted buns with ketchup, sliced onions or other condiments. Makes 4 servings.

WARM BREAD PUDDING WITH APPLES, PRUNES AND WALNUTS WITH CARAMEL SAUCE

This Fetzer recipe can be served with the winery's spicy Gewurztraminer.

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
6 slices good egg bread (approximately 6 ounces)
2 cups cored, peeled and sliced tart green apples
6 large eggs
2/3 cup sugar
½ teaspoon salt
2 ½ cups half and half 2 teaspoons vanilla extract 1 teaspoon ground ginger ½ cup chopped walnuts, lightly toasted 1 cup chopped pitted prunes Warm caramel sauce (recipe follows)

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter one side of the bread with 4 tablespoons butter; set aside. With remaining 2 tablespoons butter, saute apple slices quickly until light brown. Set aside and cool.

Beat eggs, sugar and salt together in large bowl. Heat the half and half in saucepan over moderate heat until scalded (A film will begin to form on top.) Slowly whisk in egg mixture. Stir in vanilla and ginger.

In an 8-cup souffle dish, layer the bread, walnuts, prunes and sauteed apples evenly. Pour the egg mixture over and allow to sit for 30 minutes. Set the souffle dish in a larger baking pan and pour in enough water to come halfway up the sides of the dish. Bake until the center of the custard is just about set, about 45 minutes. Remove and allow to sit for 15 minutes before serving with caramel sauce. Makes 8 servings.

CARAMEL SAUCE

1 ¾ cups sugar
¾ cup water
1 cup heavy cream
5 tablespoons cold, unsalted butter, cut into bits
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons (or more) rum, brandy or bourbon

Combine the sugar with water. Cover and bring to a simmer. Uncover and increase heat to maintain simmer. Do not stir but wash down any sugar crystals clinging to side of pan with a pastry brush dipped in water. Watch pan carefully, swirling it from time to time until syrup turns a golden brown.

Remove from heat and whisk in cream in a steady stream. Caramel and cream will bubble vigorously, so stir carefully. Stir in butter by bits until completely combined. Stir in vanilla, salt and rum. Store covered. Will keep in refrigerator indefinitely. Can be reheated. Makes 2 cups.

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