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"Personally, I believe I'm going to die," FeFe, our young Chinese guide, moaned as we swayed and bounced over the torn-up road leading from Panzhihua to Butuo. Seven and a half hours later, we reached our lunch stop at Xichang, capital of the Yi Autonomous Region in China's Sichuan province. After chicken soup, the bowl adorned with a real rooster's head perched on the rim, and a birthday-type cake complete with rosettes and "Welcome to Visit China" trim, our group was back in the bus for the remaining five-hour drive to the cell-like rooms and filthy pit-toilets of the Butuo Guesthouse. A poster showing a smiling policeman reminded visitors that there was "no gambling or prostitution" and to "be careful of your things."

Next morning, we knew that the rough journey and zero-star accommodations were worth the effort when a short drive brought us to the Yi Torch Festival and a few hundred of the most exotically garbed people any tourist could hope to see.

Women in heavily pleated full skirts and colorful appliquéd tunics sported towering black hats measuring close to two feet in diameter. Equally bright bags—appliquéd in intricate designs and edged with fringe and a multitude of cloth strips—hung from shoulders. If we hadn't already been told that black, yellow and red were significant colors to the Yi, one glimpse of their costumes would have made it clear. Some women boasted massive silver necklaces that could double as breastplates and a few wore hats awash in silver ornaments, including one style with thin silver chains hanging over the forehead.

Men wore heavy woolen white capes with stiff shoulders or a blue variety trimmed in long fringe. Many had brought along curved-horned rams shaved to a poodle cut while others led bulls or held fighting cocks. Circle dances and a flag-draped procession rounded out the day.

Back in town, single-file lines of young Yi women promenaded, each protected from the sun by a large yellow parasol. In the evening, people lit bundles of tall dry sticks, then threw them into bonfires which glowed along the streets. More dancing and singing ensued, this time around the blazing fires.

If the Torch Festival produced the trip's most colorful spectacle, other minority groups we visited were no slouches either, even in the course of their daily routines.

Starting with our first night in Kunming, capital of Yunnan province, the Golden Dragon Hotel's dinner show offered a glimpse of various groups that inhabit the area. In fact, 24 of China's 55 ethnic groups live here. Several dances focused on the careful placement of elaborate headdresses; one emphasized the woman's long, flowing hair while many featured stylized hand movements, reminiscent of Thai or Indonesian dances.

A visit to the Stone Forest, 79 miles southeast of Kunming, introduced the Sani people. Sani women favored three-layered skirts of red, black and white, tunics, embroidered fringed cloth bags and colorful headwear. Unlike Butuo, the Stone Forest is heavily touristed so it was inevitable that groups of Sani appeared at strategic spots to sing or be photographed as visitors followed a path through the 200 acres of karst limestone pillars which time and water have eroded into fantastic shapes. Tourists could pose for photos in rented costumes and stroll through a small Sani village near the exit.

Bordering Myanmar and Laos, Xishuangbanna is Yunnan's southernmost region. Tropical and lush, it is home to rice paddies and diverse ethnic populations, including Dai, Hani, Jinuo, Bulang and Lahu. The market at Jinghong was the perfect place to find most of these groups.

Hani women favored black dresses held in place by one diagonal shoulder strap covered with large coins while the Dai wore long tubular skirts, closely-fitted short bodices and silver belts. Thick cylinders of hammered metal fitted through their ears. Many heads were covered turban-style, sometimes with a bath towel. Purchases were toted home in woven reed baskets suspended over the woman's back by ropes attached to a wooden yoke which curved halfway around the neck. A number of men puffed tobacco through two-feet-long tin tubes.

A walk through a Dai village found friendly people and clean surroundings. Homes were topped by a double set of tiled eaves and several featured a peacock's tail design over the entry. Sharp pieces of glass and bamboo spikes were embedded in the walls.

After several village visits, we wound up the day at the Southern Minorities Singing and Dancing Restaurant (yes, that's the name). Gongs were struck and young girls gently shook leaves to sprinkle a few drops of water on our heads as we passed. As we sampled at least 20 tasty dishes, traditionally garbed dancers demonstrated that the eatery is well-named.

The Sunday market at Menghun, a two-hour drive from Jinghong, was frequented by Bulang, Aini and Lahu people. The Aini wore rich helmets festooned with silver balls, much like the Akha of northern Thailand, to whom they're related. Bulang women's black garments set off their earrings of silver or tin coils from which multiple strings of beads or yarn dangled. Leg wraps with elaborate designs and colorful shoulder bags were everywhere.

To reach the Aini village of Ba La, we stood on a primitive bamboo raft propelled across a narrow river by a man and woman who tugged on ropes attached to an overhead cable. The reward was a village-worth of smiling young women sporting rows of silver disks from neck to waist over their black dresses and helmets completely covered with silver balls, enlivened here and there by tuffs of colored wool.

Twelve hours on the old Burma Road brought us to Dali, capital of the Bai Autonomous prefecture. With 19 mountain peaks, numerous streams and 30-mile-long Erhai Lake, this region is frequently called the Chinese Switzerland.

Once part of a great temple complex, the Three Pagodas of Saintly Worship remains a Dali landmark. Built to invoke the Buddha's protection against all too frequent floods and earthquakes, the temples house ashes and bones of saints. A visit presented yet another chance to dress up in rented costumes and pose for photos in a sedan chair. There was no shortage of vendors, primarily selling marble objects. Fine quality marble has been quarried here for 1,200 years. In fact, the Chinese word for marble is dalishi, or Dali stone.

A 30-minute drive led to Xizhou, considered the best-preserved town in traditional Bai nationality style. Entryways of once-grand homes showed lavish use of marble, while carved wood and marble panels adorned doors and corridors. Some men wore cloaks of palm fibers while woolen disks, brightened by red circular designs, hung by embroidered straps on women's backs.

Traveling over mountains and scenic valleys, we reached Lijiang, home of the Naxi, a matriarchal people who follow the Dongba religious culture. Scriptures and other works were written as an elaborate series of pictographs.

Lijiang quickly became a favorite, due both to the charm of the town with its many canals and old structures and to the unique culture of the Naxi. This group's most striking element of clothing was the so-called "firmament cape," made of sheepskin and held in place by wide cloth bands which criss-crossed over the woman's chest. Worn furry side in, the exterior skin featured seven embroidered leather disks, representing the seven stars of Ursa major. Two leather strings hung from each disk, symbolizing the stars' rays. A few older women proudly displayed prized family heirlooms, silver earrings highlighted by jade disks.

In addition to several pagodas and temples, Lijiang sight-seeing included the Dongba Cultural Research Institute, established to study, document and preserve the ancient culture. Another preservation effort was begun a number of years ago by a group of elderly musicians. Playing ancient instruments, they presented a concert of Taoist, Han and Naxi melodies along with explanations of the music and a bit of cultural history. In the nearby village of Bai Sha, Dr. He, an herbalist, welcomed visitors and offered insights into traditional medicine.

Straddling the Yunnan-Sichuan border, Lugu Lake epitomized such adjectives as "tranquil" and "idyllic." Getting there, however, was anything but. Its 8,500 altitude meant driving over curving mountain roads along what, at the time of my trip, was a combination of dirt, mud and rocks. Our bus broke down somewhere around midnight. About 3:00 a.m., a lumber truck came down the narrow road and instead of plowing into our parked vehicle, gave our driver a lift to the nearest settlement. Perhaps five hours later, he reappeared, miraculously accompanied by several mechanics and replacement parts.

If we hadn't fully appreciated how potentially dangerous the road was, daylight clearly revealed it. Worse was yet to come. On the final four-hour stretch, we twice had to vacate the bus so the driver could maneuver over the worst spots. "Rest stop" meant the best available bush. Some time after 6:00 p.m., we reached our guest house at the edge of Lugu Lake.

True to the nature of exotic travel, our first glimpse of the lake, surrounding mountains, and the Mosuo people who inhabit its shores put everything into perspective and we were glad we had come.

Colorful blouses, trimmed with gold braid, were worn over long, white pleated skirts and wide bands of striped cloth were wrapped around the waists. The women's ultimate fashion statement, though, came from artificial hair pieces, measuring up to 10 feet in length, which topped their own already-long hair. Beads, sequins, fake flowers and other shiny ornaments added color.

While lacking indoor plumbing and electricity, our accommodations were surprisingly attractive and comfortable and meals were great. The highlight, and one of the entire trip's most special moments, came as we climbed into traditional "swine-trough" canoes. Constructed from whole tree-trunks, the boats definitely resemble their namesake. As we glided across the lake, Mosuo women sang high-pitched, haunting melodies.

The peacefulness of the lake, the beauty of the scene, the grace of our rowers and their otherworldly songs combined to create the best of travel memories, enough to sustain us during the follow day's drive back the way we had come.

Recently, a good asphalt road has replaced the one we followed and several small hotels have been built around Lugu Lake. Infinitely more comfortable, for sure, but would we trade our experiences? Not likely.

If you go:

Asian Pacific Adventures offers itineraries visiting all places mentioned except Butuo. This operator, which pioneered travel to several of these destinations, will arrange independent trip extensions to Butuo.

(800) 825-1680
E-mail: info@asianpacificadventures.com
Website: www.asianpacificadventures.com

Photographs by Joyce Dalton

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