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Vietnam

An Unspoiled Escape

By Sylvia Seschel

People's first thoughts of Vietnam would probably be that it's a war-torn country. That was 25 years ago. But the country remained quiet, isolated from the rest of the world until the late 1980's, when Vietnam opened its doors for visitors. It isn't a hopping tourist trap. Yet.

If there were a time to visit, now would be it. A few years ago even some tourists were being hassled by the authority. But the young people say enough is enough. The war is over. Time to move on. And they know which side their bread will be buttered. Tourism will bring in money for the economy.

Rex HotelEven the natives call it Saigon; Ho Chi Minh City is used to tourists and caters to them. There's even golfing and bowling. Internet Cafes are here like in most cities in Vietnam. There are plenty of hotels to choose from at all cost range. Rex Hotel is worth a look if not staying there as it has a history in itself. Once a garage, a couple transformed it into a six-storey hotel. It served as a hotel for the US military officers. Now it's a four-star hotel with the usual amenities like a gift shop, beauty parlor and has a swimming pool on the 6th floor.

Mui Ne is known for its sand dunes. Hiking can be done but not in the heat of the day. If you do hike during that time, make sure, as always to take a water bottle plus wear closed shoes. The sand is hot!

Phan Thiet is a beautiful town where fishing is the mainstay. Cameras can be clicking away at the colourful fishing boats.

Jun Village is a unique experience since we were one of the few tourists lucky to stay here and experience a village life for the day. But on the other hand, a lot of locals here don't like tourists coming. At times I don't blame them as we're invading in their space. While a local woman was preparing supper outside her house, one of the ladies on my tour asked if she could take a picture. The local lady gave her a stern look as if to say "don't you dare". The lady on the tour backed away and apologized wishing she knew how to say it in Vietnamese.

The animals roam freely in Jun. An elephant meandered down "Main Street". The next day we took elephant rides outside Jun to visit other villages and admire the mountains surrounding this beautiful area plus rice fields abound here.

Hoi An was untouched by the war. This picturesque town has many tailor shops to choose from. And the buying is cheap. This city is worth spending two or three nights. Even that many not be long enough. Plenty of sites to see within the city such as Japanese Covered Bridge (built 1593), Tan Ky House (built two centuries ago), Pagodas, Churches, Chinese Assembly Halls.

And plenty of sites to see outside Hoi An. Made famous in the American TV series, China Beach is a popular seaside area that has plush resort hotels. But the stretch of the oceanfront is known as China Beach but each area of 30 km has is known for another name. One area, My Khe Beach, is where the American soldiers did their rest and relaxation.

Hué, the last imperial capital of Vietnam, was no so lucky during the war. The bombs destroyed most of the area inside the Citadel. Over 10,000 people died during Tet Offensive. Today, Hué is one of Vietnam's main cultural, religious and educational centers. Hué is a beautiful city of visit with its history, lively markets and street-line cafés.

This city is set on Perfume River. Cruising down the river, our boat made its way to Thien Mu Pagoda. Built high, it overlooks the river. Founded in 1601, here sits the car used by a man driving to Saigon in 1963 and set himself on fire in protest against the government.

Hanoi, known as the Paris of Vietnam, is a beautiful city with a combination of lakes, Chinese architecture, French colonial buildings and tree-lined lanes. French influence is display from the buildings such as the Opera House, a magnificent 900-seat built in 1911.

This capital is not as touristy feeling as Ho Chi Minh City. But golf lovers can find a nine-hole golf course, King's Valley, 45 km from the city. It's the only golf course in Northern Vietnam.

the Old QuarterThe Old Quarter has over a thousand years of history. The 36 streets bear a name of the products sold. (Cha Ca street means roasted fish). And you can buy anything from shoes to food to herbal medicines.

Water Puppet Theatre is a 1,000-year-old art form. There are a variety of stories on how it started but the work in phenomenal. The people that guide the puppets behind the bamboo screen also stand in water. These puppeteers are trained for a minimum of three years. The stories are told in Vietnamese but it's well worth the hour-long entertainment. Cameras and videos can be used but for a small fee extra from the admission fee.

Halong Bay means, "where the dragon descends into the sea". Some locals here still report sightings of a dragon. In the movie Indochine with Catherine Deneuve, the scenes were shot on a misty day. But the misty, cool day didn't put a damper on our spirits as the boat cruised among some of the 3,000 limestone rocks jutting out from the sea. They say on a sunny day they sparkle like jewels.

Roads are being paved. More hotels are being built. Internet cafés are here. But the progress has not made life easier for many Vietnamese. People still wash themselves and their clothes in the river, workers bent over rice fields under the blaring sun, young and old women carry water buckets on heavy baskets suspended on sticks across their shoulder.

The signs are there that Vietnam is planning to boast the tourist industry. Now is the time to go before it gets to be "Westernized" like everywhere else. At least there are no McDonald's. Yet.

© 2000 Sylvia Seschel

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