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Travellers in some countries may find it hard to believe, but in North America the romance of the train is alive and in surprisingly good shape. Pioneer railroads opened up the United States well over a century ago when they carried hundreds of thousands of settlers west, allowing the country's great natural resources to be exploited. No US citizen then lived more than twenty miles from the tracks and this powerful folk memory still cuts deep into the national psyche. Lines with such evocative names as the Union Pacific, the Baltimore & Ohio and the Santa Fe continue to operate and trains still sound a long, mournful horn as they round the bend at midnight.

The Iron Horse and its successors have inspired countless legends, films and songs but you don't have to be a rail buff or nostalgia freak to fall under their spell. You just have to take a trip on one of Amtrak's many spectacular long-distance routes. The corporation was set up by Federal government in 1971 to rescue America's long-distance trains after mass car ownership, interstate highways and increasing air travel had brought decades of neglect and decline. Passenger services almost disappeared but the last twenty years has seen a remarkable transformation as new rolling stock was brought in, lines reopened and running times improved. Staff morale revived as stations were either spruced up or completely renovated.

The one in Washington, DC, for example, is now restored to its original ornate grandeur, with dozens of shops, restaurants and a nine-screen cinema. Union Station in Chicago features a splendid marble and brass waiting room as big as many a cathedral. Not surprisingly, more people travel by Amtrak than ever before. Some do so because they fear flying, others because trains seem glamorous, ecologically sound or more agreeable than the bus. Ticket prices can be amazingly low, often costing less than half the air fare, and Amtrak's array of 15 or 30 day passes are among of the world's great travel bargains. The nationwide version gives you freedom of the entire rail network for around $295, off season. Other passes give 15 or 30 days in the Northeast (from $185), the East ($210), the Far West ($190), the West ($200), or the Coastal Regions ($235). Peak season is from June until early September. You are permitted to stop off en route as often and for as long you wish, although it's best to allow at least an hour between connections in case of delays.

Over long distances it's usually faster to go by plane, even with the often tortuous journeys to and from airports, but for anyone not in a tearing hurry trains have many advantages apart from economy. The atmosphere on board tends to be relaxed and the speed is just right for sightseeing, so it's a great way to explore the landscape and meet the natives. You have plenty of space to stretch or walk about and instead of racing above the clouds you can watch a whole continent as it unrolls outside the wrap-around windows. Even occasional glimpses of city backyards can be fascinating and trains generally arrange to pass through the less repossessing areas by night. Amtrak's 25,000 mile network takes in almost every state plus Washington, DC, giving a choice of 500 destinations and access to such tourist essentials as San Francisco, Niagara Falls and the Grand Canyon. Like many other places, the Grand Canyon can also be visited by steam train.

Amtrak's gleaming aluminum twin-decked coaches boast air-conditioning, observation cars and uniformed attendants who seem to imagine themselves in a 1930s Hollywood movie. The reclining seats are thick and soft and have leg rests so you can snooze after a meal or sleep through the night (a good way to save on hotel bills). Free pillows are provided by the attendant but you should take a coat or blanket in case the air-conditioning becomes over-enthusiastic. Sandwiches, snacks and coffee are on sale in the lounge car at almost any time and this is an ideal place to become better acquainted with your fellow passengers. Americans like to talk and on trains will often tell you their life story in hair-raising detail. Video films are shown in the evenings and the bar becomes lively with impromptu parties and poker games which can last till dawn.

Overnight trains are equipped with traditional sleeping cars housing cozy bedrooms that range from single 'roomettes' to family size affairs, although some are snug to the point of being cramped. Accommodation includes breakfast, lunch and dinner in the dining car as well as complimentary tea or coffee and a newspaper delivered each morning. Otherwise meals cost around $15, with lunch being best value. Standards are high, even if chicken and steak can become monotonous after a while. Luckily, the menu often includes a regional special such as freshly-caught trout or barbecued spare ribs. Some passengers arrive on board loaded with their personal supplies of food and sodas but this is not encouraged.

Among the best trains to ride is the Southwest Chief, which takes the fastest route between Chicago and the Pacific by following the Santa Fe Trail first used by Native Americans then by Spanish conquistadors, wagon trains and stage coaches. At Dodge City you can look left and see Boot Hill, burial ground of many an outlaw and gunfighter. Beyond Albuquerque, the train crosses Arizona's desert country to Flagstaff, from where you can travel to the southern rim of the inspiring Grand Canyon. In summer, steam trains journey to a station situated just a few yards from the canyon's edge. You continue to Los Angeles by way of the San Gabriel Mountains and the Mojave Desert, often registering America's hottest temperatures. Luckily, the Southwest Chief, like all Amtrak trains, will keep you splendidly cool.

The Sunset Limited lets you ride from coast to coast on a single train, using a 3000 mile route between Miami and Los Angeles. This epic, three day journey takes you across central Florida and Louisiana to New Orleans, where the train makes a dizzy crossing of the Mississippi River by way of the Huey P Long Bridge. Before this 4.4 mile monster was built, trains had to negotiate the river on barges. You travel on through a land of bayous, white egrets, pretty plantation mansions and fields of sugar cane. Spanish moss drapes itself over oak trees and you are more than likely to glimpse an alligator or two basking in the sun. After San Antonio, the train goes west along the Rio Grande, taking a whole day to cross the sagebrush and mesquite prairies of Texas to the Sonora Desert in Arizona. A second sunset lies ahead as you cross the Columbia River into southern California. Other favoured trains include the Maple Leaf, running between New York and the French-Canadian city of Montreal via New England's forests - a big draw for autumn 'leaf peepers'. Silver Star and Silver Meteor trains go from New York to the beach resorts of Florida by way of Washington, Savannah and Orlando (for Walt Disney World).

In fact, you should find that the train will take you almost everywhere you wish to go and perhaps to a few places you hadn't expected to see. With so many choices it's easy to work out an itinerary which lets you appreciate more of this diverse country in a short time than would otherwise be possible. Some places can't easily be visited by any other means. And as the bell clangs and the conductor calls out 'All aboard!' you quickly discover why the railroad experience remains so addictive.

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Further information and travel tips can be found on the website at USA by Rail, where you also have the chance to win two free 30-day Amtrak passes worth $1,100. The latest edition of John Pitt's guidebook, USA by Rail (Bradt, ISBN 1-84162-032-7), includes comprehensive route guides as well as all the practical information you need to make reservations, buy tickets and find your way about strange train stations. It's available in book shops or direct from Bradt Publications, 19 High Street, Chalfont St Peter, Bucks, SL9 9QE, UK.

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