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Hotsprings and a Holy MountainJapan's Kurama Village and SpaBy Lucy MossTucked away among the cedar forests of Kyoto's northern hills lies the tiny village of Kurama. Famed for centuries for its Buddhist temple and legendary Tengu goblin, it has also become known in more recent years for its mineral springs and traditional Japanese inn. Easily accessible from Kyoto, but seemingly remote from the modern world, the visitor can enjoy hiking over holy Mt. Kurama before indulging in a luxurious soak in the gorgeous rotemburo outdoor baths. Reclining in these beautiful cypress wood baths while gazing at the surrounding mountains and breathing in the fresh mountain air must be one of the finest ways to relax after a few days' sightseeing in the busy city below.
The mountain's forested slopes and numerous Shinto shrines are also the scene of the Kurama Fire Festival (hi-matsuri) which takes place each year on the night of October 22nd. A wild, tantric procession of local men carrying massive burning torches passes along the village street and makes its way up Mount Kurama to honor the kami (Shinto gods) which reside on the mountain. It's a spectacular, fiery event, but be warned - it attracts many tens of thousands of spectators and can be impossibly crowded!
There are separate baths for men and women, the reason for this segregation being that in Japan it is customary to bathe naked (although the ubiquitous onsen towel is often held strategically to retain a little modesty). No need to worry, however - Japanese onsen spas are steamy, drowsy, relaxing places and you will hardly be given a passing glance.
Ease yourself gently into the hot water and linger as long as you like. Not only is a visit to an onsen a marvelously relaxing experience, it is also extremely good for you as the water contains certain revitalizing and health-giving minerals. Located high up on the hillside, there are beautiful views of Mount Kurama and the surrounding forests and many visitors spend hours here, soaking, then resting on the pool's edge before slipping back into the luxurious hot water. Daydream, admire the view and let your cares dissolve with the steam that slowly rises from the water and gently wafts away… Getting there Text © Lucy Moss |
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From Kyoto's Demachi-Yanagi Station, the two-carriage mountain train takes just 30 minutes to wind up through the forested hills to its Kurama terminus. Kurama is generally several degrees cooler than Kyoto and in the summer it is delightful to leave the oppressive heat of the city. The little train finally pulls into Kurama station and stepping out onto the platform we are immediately confronted by views of steep hillsides, thickly forested with cedar and pine. The air here is clear and fresh and the predominate sound is the rushing of the swift-flowing river as it tumbles down to the city below.
Despite its remote location, people have lived in the vale of Kurama for millennia. Even now the houses are all in the traditional style - low wooden structures with wide eaves, lanterns and bamboo-slatted windows. We stop for a snack at one of several charmingly ramshackle cafés. A large iron kettle whistles on the stove and the cheerful proprietress serves us steaming bowls of Japanese udon noodles and hot green tea. The room is crammed with various knickknacks and souvenirs for sale. Shelves of small clay figures vie for attention with packets of the dark, finely diced vegetable pickles that are a specialty of Kurama.
On the wall behind the counter hangs a red mask, its huge nose quite out of proportion to its other features. This is a representation of the Tengu, the mythical creature said to live on the peak of Mount Kurama. Credited with supernatural powers, a mischievous sense of humor and extraordinary fighting skills, tengus feature in numerous old tales and legends. One of the most famous of these tells how the King of the Tengu, the ancient, white-haired Sojobo, trained the great 12th century hero Minamoto Yoshitsune in swordsmanship, the martial arts and military strategy. 
Just beyond the café, a broad flight of stone steps leads up to the lower gate of the temple, Kurama-dera. A monumental timber structure, it is guarded by two huge sculptures of divine kings. Their muscles bulge as they raise their huge weapons to strike down any evil spirit audacious enough to attempt to pass. From here it is a long steep hike up and up through the forest, past tiny shrines, waterfalls and burbling springs until eventually one arrives at the temple itself. A small cable car carries those unwilling or unable to walk. However you reach the temple, the trip is well worth the effort and the views of undulating cedar-forested hillsides are spectacular.
The temple itself was founded in 770 AD to offer spiritual protection to the newly founded capital of Heian-kyo (present-day Kyoto) against the demons and ill-luck believed to dwell to the north. Inside the temple the very air seems ancient and one can understand why this spot has long been revered as mysterious and holy.
From Kurama-dera, the path leads on up the mountain, passing further sacred shrines and sub-temples and finally descending to the village of Kibune, famous for its charming traditional restaurants and high-class inns. Here in summer one can dine on local delicacies while seated on traditional bamboo yuka platforms constructed over the cooling waters of the mountain stream. Geisha are often in attendance at these dinners and, needless to say, prices are not cheap! Instead, it is well worth retracing your steps back to Kurama for at the far end of the single village street you will find another treasure - the Kurama Onsen Spa.
As most travelers to Japan quickly learn, onsen (hot springs) are one of the country's great pleasures. They come in two forms: the more sporty, well-equipped indoor spas and the wonderful outdoor rotemburo. Kurama Onsen Spa boasts both, in addition to a small ryokan (traditional inn) and restaurant. The indoor baths are pleasant, featuring several mineral hot pools, a sauna and an icy plunge pool, but it is the outdoor rotemburo that is the unmissable Japanese experience.
Pass through a screen of thick knotted cords and along a wooden corridor to the changing room. Then, having removed your clothes and placed them in a locker, another screened doorway leads you out into the walled courtyard containing the hot pool. One wall is lined with low showers and it is customary to wash oneself thoroughly before entering the communal pool.