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Three rivers flow through Lyon, they say — the Rhone, the Saone and the Beaujolais. As one of the cheeriest wines in the world, Beaujolais MEANS merriment, not just in Lyon, but all over France and, for that matter, all over the world.

Promptly at midnight of the third Thursday in November, millions of glasses of Beaujolais are raised and quaffed, in celebration of the year’s new wine. More than a million cases are shipped worldwide. Unlike other red wines, Beaujolais is drunk young and it is drunk chilled. Strictly speaking, the wine is known as Beaujolais primeur, but eventually it has gained a name as Beaujolais nouveau. Many credit the wine’s notoriety to the promotion and marketing efforts of George Duboeuf, who is the largest negociant in the area.

As a region, Beaujolais is one of France’s most charming...it has petite villages and beautiful scenery and an inordinate sense of pleasure.

Which is exactly what I look for each fall when I travel with my husband on our annual second honeymoons.

LOVE’S MORE BEAUTIFUL...OUT IN THE FRENCH HEARTLAND

I don’t know about you, but I was almost too tired to enjoy my first honeymoon. All the details—planning the wedding, seeing to the guests, setting up house in a new apartment—left me frazzled. Give me a second honeymoon any day. Certainly no one believes in them more than I do—I have gone on at least thirty or forty! (All with the same guy!)

When Steve and I got married, we didn’t have much money. By the time we had four children, it became apparent that if we couldn’t get away once in a while, just the two of us, we would go bonkers. My specialties became finding good babysitters and planning (good-value) honeymoons. Off we would go, sometimes for a weekend, and later, for longer, to be where we could have a romantic tryst.

It was always the best money we could spend. We would come back from the Berkshires or Italy or Newport or France with that certain glow, once again able to resume our roles as parents. Now that the little darlings are almost all out of college and some even living on their own, we continue to get away, usually trying to find the most evocative places for a week or two by ourselves.

GO TO LYON, THEN HEAD FOR THE COUNTRYSIDE

If you want to rekindle the spark and feel even better than you did on your first honeymoon, go to the Heartland of France, to the beautiful wine-growing region of Burgundy and Beaujolais. Traveling in France outside of Paris won’t break your budget, yet you will sample all the foods and wines that the country is famous for. On average, we spent about $25 per person for full meals, including wines. (We paid more than that on our first honeymoon!)

The wines are but one reflection of the richness, the zestiness, the earthiness of the region, which, up until recently, many Americans have overlooked. Located slightly southeast of the center of the country, these extensive wine-growing territories are all linked by the city of Lyon, and all hug the valleys of very old rivers, long ago settled by the Celts and then the Romans both of whom planted vines.

The best, most romantic time to visit here is in the fall. You can take long leisurely walks along winding rivers and streams, to see blue herons nearly hidden in the rushes. Enjoy the smells of wood-smoke and the shimmery sight and sounds of aspens and birches. (On brisk fall days, the yellow leaves, high up on the trees, whisper a sound, click-click-click-whoosh.)

Unlike our way of touring when we were newly married, now Steve and I take our time to really see our surroundings. It’s a pleasure to putter around medieval villages, with their twelfth century bridges and chateaux. We have found that the French guides and hosts are generous with their time when we do not appear rushed.

And then, there is leisure shopping (as opposed to power shopping). We wander into old stone fortresses that now house galleries of artisans and artists. Colorful printed fabrics and pottery liven up our rooms at home and remind us of the great times we have traveling together. Glass-blowing, weaving, painting, sculpture and other traditional art forms are part of the scene.

Can anything beat the taste of country cooking that uses the exquisite fall flavors of mushrooms, rabbit, trout, game hens, truffles, pheasant, chestnuts and apples? Even the smallest simplest village restaurant offers these seasonal items. Staying in regions noted for their wines means a new lovely vintage at every meal. Why not? On our second honeymoons, we can afford it, and, more to the point, we appreciate it. Hedonism isn’t just for the very young, vous savez?

WHAT’S THE BEST ROUTE?

Make your first stop in Lyon, about two hours from Paris on the fast train, the TGV. At some point, every French person, even the Parisians, go on Foodie Pilgrimages to Lyon, which has been called the country’s ‘Second City’. In the eastern half of France, Lyon stands out as an island of urbanity.

Recently Lyon was named a World City of Culture by UNESCO, for the wealth of its historic properties: extensive Roman ruins, including an amphitheater and forii; Baroque churches, Silkmakers passageways known as Traboules, the Croix Rousse, the "Garment District", and many other special sights.

HEAD FOR THE VALLEYS

After enjoying the city’s cultural attractions and its top-rated restaurants, especially the cozy bouchons, go by car, boat, bike or bus to explore the outlying wine-growing areas. Countless vineyards, thousands and thousands of hectares worth, fill the surrounding lands. Cruising on a self-drive cruiser in the Beaujolais and Burgundy regions is an especially enjoyable way to see the countryside, and you do not have to worry about drinking and driving.

It isn’t necessary to be an expert to find good wines. Put yourself in the hands of the vintners; then sample many varieties to find your favorites. Order cases sent home. Accustomed to paying double, sometime triple digit prices for wines, on a recent visit Steve and I were amazed by lower than expected costs for outstanding wines. In Beaujolais, for example, you will find that each of the sub-regions—19 in all—has a tasting cellar. Some of the best known are Villie-Morgon, Cuvage des Brouilly, Caveau des Deux Clochers, Caveau de Chenas and the Temple de Bacchus in Beaujeu.

At your leisure, visit these tasting houses, vineyards or some of the many wine shops to sample the various wines and see how they are made. You of course will not be alone. People come from all over France and Europe to buy their wines and to view the rich autumn colors of the countryside. Since the picking is all done by hand, you may see some of the 35,000 harvesters in the region. The scene is a bit like a New England autumn, and it is meant to be savored with all the senses. It is a honeymoon, after all.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

The Beaujolais region, which is made up of 154 villages, is northwest of Lyon, approximately thirty minutes away by car. The Beaujolais Tourist Board can plan driving tours of a few hours to several days for you, though several sub-regions. One of the very prettiest routes is called Les pays des Pierres Dorees, Golden Stones Country. Farm buildings, castles, churches of ochre-colored stones fairly glisten in the late-day sun. You can begin and end a 40-mile trip in Villefrance-sur-Saone, and stop along the way at villages such as Oingt, Bagnols, Chessy, Chatillon and Marcy. Fortresses, towers, some churches of note are interesting places to visit. In between, stop in the vineyards and celliers and enjoy the fresh Beaujolais vintages.

One of the top places to stay is the Château de Bagnols, a medieval castle that has been converted into an exceedingly comfortable hotel. Elaborately carved fireplaces, restored moat and towers, and stately grounds are a few of the features that earned this Relais-Chateau property hotel Tatler Magazines’ first-place award for small European inns.

USEFUL CONTACTS

City of Lyon: www.mairie-lyon.fr
Beaujolais Office of Tourism: paysbeaujolais@beaujolais.com 33 (0) 474072750
Air France: direct flights from NY to St. Exupery Airport (Lyon) 212 838.7800
Connoisseur Charter Boats Gray: France English-speaking reservations Connoisseur@wanadoo.fr
TGV: www.tgv.com
Château de Bagnols: www.bagnols.com

Text and photographs by Marguerite Jordan ©

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