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While downtown Denver is just a frenzied freeway hop away, the Inverness Hotel & Golf Club moderates city life to a mere memory. Gazing out from the mountain wall of glass at the classic peace of the golf course, ponds, and fountains lends a gentle sensation of escape. Relaxation, golfing, and dining were our dedicated pursuits.

The Garden Terrace is the solid, three-meals-a-day restaurant that gives a resort the reputation for consistency and a real place to enjoyably dine. Their upscale Swan—4-diamond, reservation only and dress-to-the-nines, New American Regional cuisine—is worth the trip for a special occasion. Conversely, the Garden Terrace is remarkably upscale casual with enough variety to dine for an entire vacation.

On a cold blustery day; after an invigorating round of golf, we chased off every bit of "starvation" and cold with the house-specialty, salmon chowder sporting rich chunks of salmon and red potatoes caught in a lively tomato and cream based soup. The appetizers are so inventive that one is cautioned not to order too many—or to make a serious commitment as an entire tapa-style meal. Little fish tacos richly stuffed with seared mahi mahi is accompanied with creamy avocados plus fresh cilantro with a bright dash of lime with a side of ginger and soy dipping sauce. Culturally these taste-teasers are closer to a coastal Mexican fish taco wedded with an oriental dipping sauce. The crispy eggrolls, also influenced by oriental fusion, start with all American smokehouse chicken and go oriental by rolling up with sprouts, mushrooms, ginger, and cilantro in the light case sided with full sunshine mango coulis and tangy Asian slaw.

If restraint was entertained and the starters did not finish you off, do not miss one of the most exciting adventures a chicken breast every enjoyed. The theme is decidedly Mexican with the mysterious depths of roasted poblano chilies and pumpkinseeds, crème fraiche, and a tangy tomatillo sauce. The exotic nature of the stuffed breast is brought to familiar reality with black beans and a bit of Monterey Jack cheese.

The familiar boosted up with exotics exemplifies a culinary staff that seems to love their work. The double-thick, manly-man pork chop is perfectly grilled and matched with (what else) mashed potatoes gone uptown with garlic and Parmesan cheese. The fruity apple raisin compote seems recognizably comfortable, while braised greens zipped with ginger pulls everything together for a dining experience.

The sesame crusted rare tuna loin tickled my fancy especially since shiitake ginger sticky rice (reminiscent of my last trip to Thailand) matched so exotically with cilantro slaw and a mild green onion beurre blanc. Sashimi quality tuna is a rare indulgence.

In addition, since this is the proverbial, fun return-again-and-again dining experience, there is the traditional half-pound burger with the usual favorites and Caesar salads harmonized with choice of grilled chicken or tuna or shrimp. In a pasta mood--either a grilled chicken penne fashioned with roasted pepper, creamy goat cheese, Kalamata olives and an herbed garlic broth or fusilli with shiitake mushrooms and radicchio teamed with marinara sauce and Parmesan cheese could indubitably fill that essential need.

Diners who played sufficient golf—remember this course is open almost year around--or shopped themselves exhaustion, should now freely submit to the triple fudge walnut brownie sandwich with warm Jack Daniel's chocolate sauce, or the peach cobbler with a buttermilk biscuit, or the creamy coconut crème brulee with caramelized bananas.

Those who took a brisk walk, at least through the treetops of the lobby, have no excuse for not having the house-made ice creams in flavors reflective of the chefs' inventiveness. Anyone else, especially those wandering in from the Inverness Hot Lava Basalt Stone massage with aromatherapy, needs no excuse for just ordering enough fresh spoons to taste every dessert that lands on the tabletop.

Dining here is a happy experience-one deserving of numerous repetitions. You might find yourself doing laps in the indoor pool or putting in a little time on the Stairmasters so you can order your own full dessert tomorrow night!

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Images by A. L. Scaggs, ©2001 SearchWrite

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