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Suspended in the turbulent Atlantic waters flanking Scotland's remote western coast is the rugged and awe-inspiring Isle of Skye. Famous the world over for its rich heritage and stunning scenery it is also home to one of Scotland's finest restaurants—The Three Chimneys. It takes around four hours to reach from either Edinburgh or Glasgow and as you trundle along the single track roads which wind through the wild landscape it does seem hard to believe that any restaurant could actually survive here. It's difficult to imagine people being persistent enough to make the journey, but they do. In fact, each year multitudes of gourmets from all over the globe flock here to taste the internationally recognized cuisine. Perhaps to reward these ardent fans, or possibly to attract others, six sumptuous bedroom suites have been added in the 'House Over By' (next door) providing luxury accommodation only a stones throw from the restaurant.

The Three Chimneys is owned and run by Shirley and Eddie Spears. Leaving London behind sixteen years ago they embarked on an exhilarating adventure to set up an essentially Scottish restaurant that utilized basic traditions and fresh local produce. They found the cottage for sale after a long hunt for the perfect location. Their patience paid off. Nestling amongst the mossy green landscape, tinged with lilac and golden hues, sits this classic whitewashed croft. Views over the sea sweep past extending along the shores of Loch Dunvegan and west to the Outer Hebrides. Clad in a slate roof the cottage is topped with three white chimneys giving rise to its distinctive name.

Inside the restaurant the chrome fittings and polished beech floors found in city restaurants give way to stone, charcoal and dark wood that are as genuine as the landscape outside. Crofters' chairs and wooden benches seat up to forty diners at tables decorated with fine white china and elegant glassware. The natural stone walls are home to local art depicting shoals of coppery fish and other images of the sea. Cosy warmth exudes from recessed hearths, lavishly filled with candles, as guests peruse menus mounted on slate boards.

Shirley, a self-taught cook, is one of Scotland's top chefs and has been the recipient of countless awards. Perhaps the most meaningful to her was the recognition from her colleagues in the Scottish Chef's Association who presented her with the 'Special Award' for outstanding contribution to Scottish cuisine. The three red rosettes awarded by the AA are also testament to her considerable culinary skills. Skye seafood forms the basis of most of her menus with Highland beef, lamb and game always making an appearance too. Local ingredients are the basis of the traditional dishes, which are done with a twist. Her husband, Eddie, is said to have the finest selection of wine in the Highlands and is the perfect host.

The menu is composed of four courses. Loch Dunvegan, across the road, provides one of the starters—langoustines with organic leaves and herbs. Pulled from the sea only an hour or so before you eat they are plump and juicy and well complemented by the salad. The lightness of a hot mussel tart served with saffron cream is a popular alternative as is the stronger tasting pan-fried breast of wood pigeon, which is served with a sherry and wild mushroom sauce. Lobster bisque or six Skye oysters make a pleasant follow up in the second course.

Shirley has worked hard cultivating her suppliers to ensure only the freshest ingredients are available. The seafood is exceptional and the seared fillet of salmon with a wild sorrel butter sauce is proof of this. Roast breast of wild mallard duck is one of the most fashionable choices, served nicely under-done and accompanied by a Seville orange sauce, spiced red cabbage and a potato cake. Vegetarians are also looked after with a wild mushroom risotto cakes in a red pepper sauce.

The number one favourite item on the menu is the hot marmalade pudding served with Drambuie custard—in winter the kitchens are turned into a giant marmalade factory so that this steamed pudding can be created. If you can muster a little restraint then the rhubarb and stem ginger parfait is clean and crisp and fares a little better on the calorie front. Coffee rounds off this extravaganza and, for those still looking for a little more indulgence, can be served Gaelic style with whisky and whipped cream.

After such excess in the dining room there can only be one way to finish off such a perfect experience—a short stagger across to The House Over By to collapse in your lavish suite. Lounge on the velvet sofa and unwind as Celtic folk music filters from the CD system and sip on a Talisker malt as you savour the lingering flavours that still dance on your taste buds. Just remember to rest well because when you wake in the morning breakfast awaits in the bright dining room downstairs. Creamy porridge, island cheeses, smoked salmon and home baked bread all beg to be eaten - it's hard to resist so don't. Instead eat all you can. You may need extra strength later when you find yourself trampling through peat bogs in an inevitable Highland downpour.

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