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Beijing is one of my favorite cities because it offers the best of two of my favorite pastimes, shopping and eating. The trip is long, but take a few guidebooks to read en route and dream of all the money you will save in the markets. Walking and bargaining will work up an appetite, but you will find fabulous gourmet restaurants at surprisingly reasonable prices. And casual, local restaurants are cheaper than fast food at home.

BEIJING BARGAIN SHOPPING

Shanghai Xu
The minute you land in Beijing, go directly to Shanghi Xu. Their stylish Oriental clothing in lush silk and contemporary cuts are popular with locals as well as tourists. My clothes were made in 24 hours with one fitting and then pick up the next day. But you might want to allow a little more time in case you need an extra fitting as my mother did.

This was my big splurge. I bought two jackets, an Oriental vest and two reversible scarves. Jackets are about $200, vests $175 and scarves are $50. Maybe this doesn't sound like a bargain but it is an exceptional value for the quality. They also have gorgeous pillows, and purses, coasters and other household items. You can maybe bargain a little.

SHANGHAI XU, LEVEL B1 CHINA WORLD SHOPPING MALL

Friendship Store
A good place to get an overview of the market. A whole range of all things Chinese can be found at rather reasonable prices. No bargaining here.

The Pearl Market
Don't even think of buying pearls until you shop here. These shops used to be the "flea market types" that hugged the outer perimeter of the Temple of Heaven but are now housed in a low-rise building. Strands of freshwater pearls start at about $3. They will make anything you want in any size. The key word is bargain. I found it easy to ask "what do you have for $10" and was offered wonderful things for gifts. I also bought stands of crystals for $10. It seems to work best if you find one vendor and work with them. On my last two trips I have gotten most of my jewels from Rupeipei at #163 on the third floor and #4323 on the fourth floor (the more upscale items are on the fourth floor)

Take time to look around the building while they not your special pearl order. The basement level is a wet market with a variety of goodies. If it moves, and is edible, it's there. Fabulous bags of every description flood the 2nd floor, while the 3rd floor is home to fresh water pearls and semi-precious stones, curios, antiques and handicrafts. For more serious jewelry, go directly to the fourth floor

Silk Alley
This Tourist Friendly market has great fake knock offs. Everyone speaks English and the prices reflect their skills. Bargain like crazy and get some casual clothes with labels from the Gap, Ann Taylor and Banana Republic. Who knows if the labels are right but the prices certainly are. Try to slip clothes on over your own as sizes seem to be smaller. On my first trip to Beijing, I bought lots of silk scarves for $3. This time I got some printed polyester ties for $2 (the label said silk but I know they were polyester)

THE WEEKEND DIRT MARKET

Jinsong Market
Open only at weekends, the best time to go is when everyone else is in dreamland. But this is still fun at a reasonable hour of the morning or afternoon. Prepare to elbow your way through the rows of vendors sections laid out on the concrete flooring, and get covered in dust while sourcing for the best bargain of your life. I think the great deals are found around the perimeter of the dust area so I always start there. Last time I got a covered jade bowl for $20 that I saw in a "tourist store" for $300. Hope you find the same kinds of deals. Lots of jewelry, small antiques and ethnic clothing.

Beijing Curio City
Perfect for old or antique artifacts. Anything from gold buttons to restored bridal beds. If you've seen a piece of Chinese furniture in a glossy magazine or high-priced home décor shop back home, you may well find the same item here for a fraction of the price. (you can ship things home, too)

Yuan Long Silk Store
For the widest range of silk material, this the most well known place to check out. However, silk is now widely available at most department stores' textile sections.

Dragon House
Locals shop and rave about Dragon House. Their prices are not cheap but their jewelry is wonderful. There are inexpensive things for gifts like earrings and cufflinks that say Good Luck in Chinese characters. Many small things are $15 or less.

BEST AREA FOR ANTIQUE SHOPPING

According to Dr. Usha Haley, expert on China at the University of Tennessee's College of Business, the best place to shop for Chinese antiques is in Hong Kong, because of restrictions placed by the Chinese government on the removal of antiquities and the presence of so many fakes. However, few places in the world offer the atmosphere of IULICHANG JIE (Liulichang, Xuanwu District in Beijing) which occupies both sides of a narrow street that has been carefully restored to its Ming-era grandeur. Its classical architecture, in modern Beijing, is as much an attraction as the art and antiques shops. Artists come here for the selection of brushes, paper, and ink stones. You can also find a great selection of antiques here -- some genuine and some not in the side stalls. Please remember to bargain.

BEST UPSCALE SHOPPING MALL

If you want to splurge you will find 40 high-end stores at the Palace Mall.

CONTEMPORARY CHINESE ART

Check out the Red Gate Gallery at the Dongbianmen Watchtower. This ten year old gallery specializes in the contemporary work of young Chinese artists who have been shown widely in China and the west. The gallery is located in the spectacular Ming Dynasty Watchtower on the east side of the city just ten minutes from the Friendship Store. this building is worth the visit by itself. 6525 1005. 10 am - 5 pm. Closed on Monday

CHINESE CUSTOMS

Try to keep an open mind about anything that seems initially appalling, whether it's dog meat or Chinese toilets.

If you are having difficulties, be friendly but stern. Raising your voice and threatening will only embarrass you in front of the Chinese, who feel that "face" is extremely important.

It helps to learn a few words in Chinese, even if all you can say is thank you (shee-yeh, shee-yeh) and hello (nee how)

Bowing the head together and pressing the hands together is a sign of deep gratitude.

If you are stared at, simply smile back or treat it humorously.

GREAT GUIDEBOOKS

FOR MORE INFORMATION

Shangri-La Hotel, Beijing
29 Zizhuyuan Road, Beijing 100089, China
Tel: (86-10) 6841 2211
Fax: (86-10) 6841 8002/3
Email: slb@shangri-la.com

China World Hotel, Beijing
No. 1 Jian Guo Men Wai Avenue, Beijing 100004, China
Tel: (86-10) 6505 2266
Fax: (86-10) 6505 0828
Email: cwh@shangri-la.com

The Kerry Centre Hotel, Beijing
1 Guang Hua Road, Beijing 100020, China
Tel: (86-10) 6561 8833
Fax: (86-10) 6561 2626
Email: hbkc@shangri-la.com