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Brilliant Baubles, Sexy StreetscapeIt's Not Just Brazil's Beaches That Will Dazzle YouBy Marguerite JordanIn Sao Paolo, Brazil, at H. Stern s jewelry store, I noticed a woman shopping purposefully, as if she were on a mission. I decided to follow her around.
"I had never seen anything quite like it," she said later. It had at least 100 sapphires. She took her time as she tried it on: it could be worn long, or doubled up as a choker. Her blonde hair, already one of her prettiest features, seemed to take on champagne-colored tints. Her cheeks became rosy, her skin luminescent. She smiled with a look of passion in her deep sapphire-colored eyes. Later I asked Madame X, "How much was it?" "$25,000," she replied. "Earrings to match?" "$5,000". As for the sparkle, we both agreed, "Priceless." FINE JEWELS MAKE FOR HAPPY TRAVEL MEMORIES
It also has some top jewelry stores; H. Stern is the largest and best known. Hans Stern, an immigrant from Germany, began as a typist for a stone exporting company. Now he owns 180 stores in 40 countries. Early on, Stern hired some of the world's best artisans to design settings and pieces that compare favorably with the world's other top jewelers, Cartier, Tiffany and Bulgari. He knew to locate his stores in five-star hotels and airports in the bigger cities. He hires staff fluent in the language of his best customers: French, German, English, Portuguese and Japanese. At the main headquarters in Rio de Janeiro, there is a store and also a museum of jewelry, where it is possible to follow the entire process from the original mining of the stones, to the selection of those to be cut, on to the creation of the design and finally the arranging and polishing of the necklace, earrings, bracelets and rings. But it is within the showroom that you the shopper, like Madame X, come alive. In this carpeted softly lit room filled with dozens of neatly arranged cases, the atmosphere is similar to that of a fine hotel. Well-trained, worldly staffers treat all shoppers with the same regard, whether you are merely pressing your nose to the glass in longing, or whether you'll be carrying out gifts for your entire extended family. I watched another shopper, Ginny Guiterrez, make several purchases. "I bought aquamarine earrings to match a ring my in-laws had bought for me 20 years ago on one of their many trips to Brazil. It was a sentimental act, as I had always worn the piece knowing I wanted to come and buy a companion article. Having the opportunity to actually see the craftsmen do the work was a thrill." The museum shows a great deal of Brazil's early mining history, as well as the process of creating designs. "I'm comfortable buying jewelry at H. Stern. It has craftsmanship that is guaranteed. I know I will find great advice and a lot of choice. I also bought two stunning rings, one for my daughter and one for myself," Ginny continued. The rings are set in 18K gold, and they contain citrons, golden topaz, amethysts, aquamarines and garnets. I too was dazzled by certain outstanding pieces. I focused on a pair of emerald-cut emerald earrings, which had a price tag of $48,000. Although I am sure the salesman heard me gasp at the price, he continued to wait on me as if I were a real customer. I know that he knows that I am not necessarily a buyer today, but that I may be some day. Taking the jeweler s loop and looking closely at the stones, I was able, with his guidance, to see the features that make these stunning green rocks worth the high price. Cut, clarity, the art of the stone and its setting, these are all important, he explained. He walked me through some of the store's extensive emerald holdings. As Arnold Schwarznegger is fond of saying, "I'll be back!" Of the company's 3600 employees, 600 are artisans; consequently, you can choose between many different styles, from old-fashioned almost Victorian settings to the most asymmetrical piece of post-modern design. The artists produce about 20,000 pieces a month, in about 2500 models. H. Stern s knows woman does not live by baubles alone. In a gracious marketing move, from a pretty little 'stage set' of a bar in one corner of the showroom, the staff serves customers brilliantly colored drinks in cut crystal glasses. The bartender starts with a kind of Brazilian firewater made from sugarcane, chachaca. Then he mixes in fruit juices and sometimes, vodka, the results being the colored visual echoes of the aquamarines, sapphires and rubies. The drinks, called batidas, soothe the husbands and make the wives giddy. BRAZIL BEGAN WITH RUMORS
Over time, other groups of workers and settlers followed: Italians, Japanese, Germans, Poles, Ukrainians, Jews, Lebanese and many others from countries around the world. In both land mass and variety of nationalities, Brazil is equal to the continental United States. In economic terms, it is the leading country of South America. Two of its cities, Rio and Sao Paolo, are among the most populous in the world, and each is known for features that set them apart from each other and other great cities of the world. Rio, on the coast of the South Atlantic, boasts one of the most beautiful natural harbors in the world. A ring of mountains surrounds the undulating coast, home to a spectacular statue, Christo Redentor, atop the hill of Corcovado. Grandiose city parks, 18th-century architecture, and a relaxed culture give this downtown the feel of a European capital, but one that is much more lively and informal. Everyone knows about the 56 miles' worth of beaches, that to just say a name -- Ipanema, Copacabana -- conjures up graphic images of bikinis and babes. People in bathing suits meet for business lunches on the beach. With its 17 million residents, the inland city of Sao Paolo is, on the other hand, the skyscraper capital of South America. It is bigger, more congested, has more huge buildings than any other city I have visited, and that includes Hong Kong, Rome, London, Mexico City and New York City. From atop a tower in the middle of the city, I photographed in every direction as far as I could see, there were thousands and thousands of skyscrapers. It would take a speeding cabbie (and there are plenty of those) four and a half hours to cross the city. Brazilians call Sao Paolo the engine that powers the economy. About 300,000 American business people visited here last year, many in the export-import field. Anhembi Convention Center hosts dozens of conferences, retail and wholesale fairs, and expositions every week, for products as diverse as cosmetics and make-up, industrial gadgets, bananas and coffee. The city has hundreds, if not thousands of top restaurants, many located in the Jardins district. Most popular ethnic cuisines are Italian and Japanese, a reflection of the influence of these immigrants. DARLING, IT'S THIS AMAZING BODY BEAUTIFULExploring both of these cities in the world s fifth largest country, you experience some mighty outstanding things: beaches, dramatic scenery, food, soccer, culture, historic sites, dancing, polo, natural wonders, etc. But, trust me, these are not the features you will notice first. Unh-uh. Primeiro, segundo and terceiro, what you notice is the Brazilian body. Darling, it is different from ours. Think Sonia Braga in "Dona Flor and her Two Husbands", think Carmen Miranda, think Pele, the world's greatest soccer player. And, when you see the people on the beach in Rio your eyes widen so far you need eyedrops. Think Thong. Think glistening bodies. Think folks who have found The Life. Roller-blading, doing aerobics, surfing, playing their world-famous brand of volleyball. For some "Cariocas", playing and sunning become a full-time activity. It is not just the thong that makes you notice their bodies. There s a rhythmic style that transcends age, income or even body type. It is in their posture, their pride, their attitude that makes you realize that Brazilians are special. Watch people in the cities botanical parks, on the busy sidewalks, at the art museums, or in the clubs where many dance the night away. Brazil s most popular novelist, Jorge Amado, got it right in his many books when he showed the spark, the color, the beauty, the high emotions of the Brazilians. Decorative, bold touches are everywhere: party colored shirts, big red polka dots , stripes, on both men and women; embroidered sleeves, mini-skirts, floral hip-huggers, high-high heels. If People magazine ever changes its headquarters, it will choose Brazil. FEELING FREE TO BE WHOEVER YOU WANT TO BEMinutes after arriving in the world s third largest city, Sao Paolo, I found myself in the middle of the city s Third Annual Gay Pride Parade, consisting of a group of about 200,000 people marching down the city s fashionable main street, Paulista Avenue, on and following three-storied floats. Another three or four hundred thousand lined the streets, often joining in the celebrations. From their elevated stages, costumed dancers put on one of the liveliest floorshows I have ever seen. (Is this stuff legal?) For one brief moment, I considered worrying about advice given me prior to the trip about pickpockets and petty crime. Surrounded by thousands of half-dressed people wearing over-the-top eye-make-up, curvy body suits, revealing costumes, I photographed the would-be Carmen Mirandas and sailor-boys. Since they were all only too pleased to mug for me and hold their poses, I stopped worrying about theft. These guys, and it was mainly guys, only they sure looked like girls, were so happy. Think New Orleans with a jeweled overlay. Headdresses resembled glistening bowls of fruit; dance steps made the lambada look innocent; the music's heavy beat, pounding on the pavement, carried me a couple of miles along the main drag. Brazil is a way of life, a sound, a glint of gold, a smile. You have no doubt heard of Carnival and its gorgeous costumes and dances? Then, it shouldn't be a surprise that Brazilian daily life is just a yearlong rehearsal for the world s biggest Lenten festival. People here do not WALK along the street or beach they saunter, swivel, sway, sashay or else they dance, with a beat of Africa, salsa, merengue, lambada, capoeira (almost a martial dance), whatever. I found the beauty of the Brazilians, like that of the jewels, mesmerizing...I'm not necessarily a buyer, but I sure like to look. You will too. PLAN A GREAT TRIPIt is impossible to see the whole country in one visit. To get the most out of your trip, put yourself in the hands of companies that specialize in Brazil, such as Varig Airlines and Bass Hotels. (Bass includes Inter-Continental, Holiday Inn, and Crowne Plaza, all well-maintained and located near tourist attractions.) They, the tourist boards of the various cities and regions, and your travel agent can all help you create the perfect vacation. Select more than one overlay of your trip -- cultural, beachy, business, adventure, big city, natural wonders, etc. and mix and match. I found Brazil Handbook, by Ben Box (a Footprint/Passport guidebook) to be crammed with useful information. CONTACT INFORMATIONVarig Airlines
http://varig.com.br |
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TM
Madame X stopped in front of a large case full of brilliant jewelry.
Her eyes fixed on a necklace of uncut sapphires. Her hands trembled a bit
as the salesman handed it over to her. 
Of all the countries in the world to indulge your jewel fantasies and,
let's face it, every woman has them, Brazil has to be number one. It is a
country blessed with great natural resources, including an amazing supply
of the precious stones-- sapphires, rubies, diamonds, emeralds, as well as
of course gold. Naturally, it has a selection of the less expensive, but
no less beautiful ones: tourmalines, garnets, aquamarines, topaz, opals
and amethysts.
In the 1500's, having heard rumors of a fantastic land of precious
metals, the governments of Portugal and France sent settlers to claim as
much of the territories as they could. These earliest Europeans then began
what was to become a backbone industry of the country, mining. They soon
discovered not just precious stones, but also tin, manganese, copper and
iron ore. Even today Brazil mines a third of the world s supply of iron.
African slaves were imported to do backbreaking work in the mines,
alongside the various indigenous peoples.