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Carcosa Seri Negara

An exotic getaway in a Faraway Land

by Anne Garber

Carcosa Seri Negara -- considered to be the most historic colonial hotel in Kuala Lumpur -- encompasses two handsome, richly appointed colonial mansions: Carcosa, 103 years old; and Seri Negara, which opened its doors in 1913. Both originally served as genteel residences for only the most senior of colonial civil servants in British Malaya; from governors to British High Commissioners. The hotel formally re-opened after extensive restoration work in 1989. The hotel's first official guests were Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, in Malaysia for the occasion of the Commonwealth Heads of Government Meeting, in 1989.

The history of Carcosa Seri Negara mirrors that of Malaysia, herself:

In 1896, Sir Frank Swettenham -- then the newly appointed Resident General of the new Federated Malay States -- started constructing his official residence above the Lake Gardens in Kuala Lumpur. The name "Carcosa" was chosen by Swettenham himself, probably referring to the house in Italian as "Cara Cosa" or "Dear Thing."

The sister mansion to Carcosa, the King's House, was built around the hillside. It was to house the Governor of the Straits Settlements as well as other illustrious guests of the Malay Federation. The King's House was later renamed "Seri Negara," which means "Beautiful Country."

With independence imminent in September 1956, the Chief Minister of Malaya, Tunku Abdul Rahman, presented the deeds of Carcosa and its 40 acres of land to the British Government as a gift, a token of goodwill. Carcosa then became residence to a succession of British High Commissioners.

Carcosa was returned to the Government of Malaysia in 1987.

Internally, Carcosa Seri Negara has gone through several changes. What had been drawing rooms, studies and small guestrooms are now suites and function/ banquet rooms. But externally, Carcosa Seri Negara preserves its original outlines. The mansions, set against the manicured lawns and the Lake Gardens, show a part of Malaysia that is truly timeless.

One of Carcosa Seri Negara's trademarks is the English afternoon tea, served in the elegant drawing room, or on the charming wrap-around verandah, overlooking the beautiful gardens. It is served daily, and faithful to the High Tea style of Sir Frank Swettenham.

I visited with my dear friend, Peter Comparelli, who was working in Kuala Lumpur at the time. Peter had "saved" the experience of visiting Carcosa so that we could discover the place together.

We reclined on pillows on deep banquettes and savoured the delightful variety of teas, assorted sandwiches, hot savouries, pastries, cakes, fresh strawberries. Of course there was also the quintessential English tea fare of scones served with clotted cream and homemade strawberry jam.

In the hotel (we had a full tour) all suites are furnished in distinctive Regency style with Malaysian objects d'art. Butlers present amenities including scented bath oils, freshly sliced fruits and assorted chocolates.

A butler also meets each guest at the airport and is on personal duty throughout the stay. But you do have your privacy. Romantic doesn't say half of it!

Carcosa Seri Negara
Taman Tasik Perdama

50480 Kuala Lumpur
Malaysia
(P)03-2821888
(F)03-2827888
E-mail: csnhotel@mol.net.my

General Manager: Leo Kuscher
Resident manager: Kai Hoffman

Words and Pictures © Worldwide 2002, Anne Garber/Recent Developments

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