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San Miguel de AllendeThe Cultural Heart of MexicoWalter GlaserIT'S EASY TO FALL UNDER THE SPELL OF THE OLD WORLD CHARMS OF SAN MIGUEL DE ALLENDE, A SMALL HISTORIC COUNTRY TOWN IN MEXICO. WALTER GLASER WAS CAPTIVATED WHEN HE EXPLORED THIS THRIVING CENTRE OF MEXICAN MUSIC, ART AND LITERATURE.
We were here because during our stay Mexico City, we had met an American historian, who had enthusiastically related the fascinating history of San Miguel de Allende.
As we drove into the town we noticed that its houses had, as is the norm in most of Hispanic America, plain walls and heavy, often beautifully carved doorways. These faced the street, giving little external indication of the gracious charm one would find inside. Many of the splendid doors had their lintels crowned with carved stone coats of arms of families long gone. High-grilled windows were deliberately located above eye level to hide interiors from the gaze of inquisitive passers by. They gave only a faint hint of the elegant Castilian touches and leafy courtyards within.
The history of the changes to San Miguel is, we were told, an important turning-point in Mexican history. Once one of the pivotal centers of Spanish rule in Mexico, the town had been bypassed by modernity and progress during the last century. Though the city's Mestizo (part Spanish, part Mexican Indian) citizens had often lived in incredible luxury during Spanish rule, the powers in Madrid had, at that time, refused them the right to hold high office in either church or government. Resentment smoldered as the townspeople smarted at their electoral status of second-class citizens.
In 1822, just as the nearby silver mines were almost worked out and San Miguel de Allende was rapidly losing its economic importance, Mexico won independence from Spain. This town, the very heart of Mexico's revolutionary movement, hibernated for the next century. But its churches, town plaza and gracious buildings remained intact. By the 1960s a booming Mexican economy was leading to a frenzy of construction, with new skyscrapers, factories and resorts springing up across the country. Protected by architectural legislation, San Miguel de Allende was spared from the spread of glass-box architecture. Perhaps because of this, the town retained much of its popularity with both the Mexican intelligentsia and those Americans and Canadians who had realized its potential as an outstanding retirement location.
We were told that as the arts re-emerged and flourished, the Institute Allende regained its reputation as one of the finest schools of arts and letters in the whole of Latin America. Poets, writers and artists from Mexico and its northern neighbors arrived, attracted in part by the active expatriate community, which provide funds and stimulation for concerts, exhibitions and the expansion of all facets of the arts.
It was obvious to us that, as in most Mexican towns, much of the social life here revolves around the small Zocalo. Leafy trees shaded the gossipers passing the time of day, resting on park benches and exchanging stories with their neighbors. Escaping from the hot, bright sun, they sat here as crystal air and gentle breezes drifted up from the alluvial plains below the town. As we explored farther, we found San Miguel de Allende to be perched almost at the edge of a plateau overlooking a fertile river valley. The local cottage industry, whose handicrafts we saw everywhere at ridiculously low prices, produces outstanding tinsmith work and weaving as their main specialties. Factory production and commerce were almost non-existent, which perhaps accounted for the clear, unpolluted air.
Our hotel, the Casa de Sierra Nevada, was located about one block from the city square. We had found this luxurious country style inn, created from ten separate magnificently restored colonial era houses, to be absolutely charming. Full of character and with exceptional comfort, it was a wonderful place to relax in after a hard day's sightseeing. True to the Mexican phrase "mi casa es su casa, (my house is your house) the hotel offers traditional Mexican hospitality with personalized attention and impeccable and courteous service. It was the perfect luxury hideaway for that romantic weekend or special anniversary. Each casa had its own personality, with antique colonial furnishings and hand-painted Talavera tile baths. Some sections had wood-burning fireplaces, their own courtyard patios or private gardens. We were delighted with the 60-foot heated swimming pool and when we absolutely couldn't ignore the outside world 2-line telephones and Cable TV brought it to us instantly. The restaurant here was also excellent. We not only enjoyed the best Mexican food in San Miguel, but some well-prepared international-style dishes as well. The menu changed daily, with an emphasis on seasonal produce, quality and freshness. Strolling around one of the most enchanting colonial towns in Mexico filled our first day easily. Walking and looking are what a visit is all about. We stopped at every building to admire the Spanish-style, Mexican-influenced architecture and browsed around the numerous art galleries displaying a cross-section of artistic endeavors. The shops displayed a wide variety of crafts, including hand-blown glass, textiles, wood carving, stained glass, iron work and ceramic tiles. I just wished I had thought to wear shoes with thick rubber soles. My feet were not happy at all !!! On the outskirts of town, just 10 minutes from the hotel, is the 300-acre Rancho La Loma. This belongs to the owners of the hotel and guests can enjoy horseback riding, with or without instruction, advanced Spanish dressage exhibitions and carriage riding. Picnics are provided on request. If, after all this activity, you feel in need of rejuvenation, treat yourself to a facial, body scrub, body massage, herbal algae, rose extract petal and clay wrap, or other special treatment. Our hotel was a perfect base for exploration. We particularly enjoyed seeing the Parroquia, a parish church modeled on what its builders imagined Notre Dame to look like after they had seen a picture on a postcard of that cathedral. Another fascinating visit was to the Museo Casa de Allende, the birthplace of that father of Mexican independence. The building is now filled with memorabilia and bears the inscription 'Hic natus ubique notus' (Here was born he who is known everywhere). During the next few days we also spent a little time looking (with no luck!!) for the ghosts that locals swore to be haunting the nearby mining ghost-town of Pozos. We also took time to visit the colourful, picture-book-pretty and historic city of Guanajuato. Just before leaving we heard about San Miguel Festival held, a friend told us, in the last week of September. At that time, he said, the town explodes into a cacophony of celebration that brings it alive. By the time he had described the Indian dancers, parades, Mariachis, and the Pamplonada, a Pamplona-Spanish-style running of the bulls we were fired up with enthusiasm to return. Perhaps we'll be able to make it another time. San Miguel de Allende is the sort of destination that draws one back --- again and again. Getting There:The Hotel can provide transfers by chauffeured luxurious limousine (rates upon request) from and to Mexico City Airport (a 3-hour, 175 mile drive). There are alternative and convenient air services offered between the US and Guanajuato International Airport (code BJX), which is an easy 1 ½ hour drive to San Miguel de Allende. Mexicana flies non-stop and direct from Los Angeles; American files non-stop from Dallas/Ft Worth with system-wide U.S. connections and Continental flies non-stop from Houston, also with system-wide connections. Casa
de Sierra Nevada, Hospicio 35, San Miguel de Allende, Gto 37700 Mexico. |
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Escaping
the urban pressure cooker that is Mexico City, we drove along a mostly
modern, arrow-straight highway,
He
had explained that it had been founded in 1540 by Juan de San Miguel, a
Spanish Franciscan friar, prospering and
growing to become a major supply centre for the surrounding area. For a
considerable time the nearby silver mines helped to supply the world
with its largest source of this precious metal.
We
had heard from our friend that, by the beginning of the l9th century,
many of these structures were the townhouses of wealthy Spaniards and
Creoles who owned the surrounding
mines, estates and business ventures. In 1926 the town was declared a
national monument and since then no new construction that is not
completely in keeping with the character of the old architecture has
been permitted.
All
sectors of San Miguel's society were dissatisfied and many of its
citizens plotted for independence from Spain. A Spanish priest, Father
Hidalgo incited the Indian workers to rebellion. The Creole townsfolk,
equally unhappy, were led to insurgence by Ignacio Allende, a fellow
Creole intellectual who was a friend of Father Hidalgo. The subsequent
civil war, which saw the death of both of these leaders of the
insurgency, spread into a prolonged, full fledged revolution.
As
we walked through this charming Mexican country town, it was clear that
there was now undergoing a substantial revival. Steeped in history and
art, San Miguel de Allende revealed an interesting blend of beautiful
churches, homes and a veritable
treasure trove of art galleries and specialty shops.
San
Miguel de Allende
We
could not help noticing how quiet San Miguel was, its silence only
occasionally broken by tired cars rattling
down the town's narrow and often steep streets. Walking here was made
painful by the uneven cobblestones laid by unwilling, inexperienced
Indians at the orders of stern Spanish Conquistadors in the 16th
century.