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An Encounter with the Italian IcemanThe 5000-Year-Old Man in Bolzanoby Murray D. LaurieWhen my athletically-gifted sister suggested a side trip to Bolzano in northern Italy, little did I know that I would meet, face-to-face, an intriguing mountain man, surprisingly well-preserved after spending 5,300 years frozen in a glacier in the South Tyrol mountains. Once part of Austria, Bolzano itself was a surprising city, more alpine than any other in Italy, in a lush valley surrounded by the pink-tinted Dolomite Mountains.
When we returned to Bolzano, I suggested a visit to Ötzi, the Ice Man, the star attraction of the South Tyrol Museum of Archaeology. Hikers had discovered him several years ago, imbedded in an icy glacier. At first the frozen body was believed to be another unlucky, solitary modern trekker. But it soon became apparent that the discovery was much older...in fact thousands of years older. By great good fortune, all of the clothing and weapons as well as the body itself had been preserved in the ice, allowing scientists to learn a great deal about the man, nick-named Ötzi, and his way of life.
Although we didn't have a chance to do the hiking we planned to do, the trip to Bolzano was a delightful surprise. My sister, who lives in Vail, Colorado, will have plenty of trails to cover in her neighborhood, but I doubt that I'll encounter any attractive icemen in my Florida backyard. FOR FURTHER INFORMATION:Bolzano, or Bosen, is in the South Tyrol part of northern Italy. The Tourist Office was very helpful and has a website: www.sudtirol.com/bolzan . We liked the newly renovated Hotel Figl in the center of town: www.lfigl.net , and more about the Archaeological Museum where Otzi, the Iceman, now rests can be found at www.iceman.it |
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TM
Unfortunately, an early August cold front and
relentless rain dampened our plans for long hikes across high meadows and
down the well-marked hiking trails. Settling for a few days of drizzle and
city walking, after the hurried purchase of snappy plaid folding umbrellas,
we explored the churches of the ancient city (the Roman Army set up a
garrison in the first century BC). Each one was brimming with historical and
architectural interest. The splendid multicolored roof and lofty spire of
the Dominican church next to the main square is the symbol of this
bi-lingual city, but there were others to discover down the narrow lanes and
byways, all built before Austrian Bozen became Italian Bolzano in 1927.
We discovered a varied cuisine here
too...apple strudel, Weinerschnitzel and pretzels as well as pasta, tiramisù,
and cappuccino. Grapes have been grown in the area
since prehistoric times, and we relished the local wines produced from the
vineyards that climb the slopes of the surrounding hills and fill the
valleys. A sightseeing trip on one of the three gondolas that lift
passengers from Bolzano high up to surrounding mountain tops hoisted us to
the village of Oberbozen where we ordered a hot and hearty barley soup and
later ducked into a bar for hot chocolate to get out of the chilly downpour
that cut short our excursion.
Within
the museum, the mummy of the Ice Man and his possessions are respectfully
revealed, and visitors may share some of the secrets of his life and times
through exhibits and audio tapes in five languages. The rather smart looking
fur coat he wore was protected by an ingenious rain cape fashioned of woven
grass and twine. His leather shoes were serviceable and practical for
walking in snow, with soft grasses stuffed inside for comfort and
insulation. A reconstructed model of Ötzi shows a good-looking fellow with a
dark beard and mustache who carried an impressive array of well-designed
tools and gear. Fit him today out with a rifle, hiking boots and a plaid
jacket and jeans, and he'd fit right in with a modern hunting party.