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Idyllic Mendocino
By Margaret Deefholts
Try
to remember the kind of September, when life was slow and oh, so mellow…
Try to remember and if you remember, then follow…follow, follow, follow,
follow…
(Lyrics: Tom Jones from “The Fantastiks”)
Yes, follow. Follow
your imagination to a place where time moves gently and the song of the wind
in the trees lulls you to sleep at night; to a place where the rhododendrons
bloom scarlet in the spring, and the redwoods soar against the summer sky.
Can you remember what it was like to sit in a shady garden with a book in
your lap and watch the trees throw a shiver of dappled light and shadow
across the lawn? Do you recall the smell of hot, freshly baked scones and
taste of a home-made pecan pie?
Nostalgia
doesn’t have to be folded away in a scrapbook of the past. Not if you are in
Mendocino. Not if you are at the Joshua Grindle Inn. Like the haunting
melody of The Fantastiks, life here is still tender, and tranquility
dwells in the morning mists, the pine-laden fragrance of the evening breeze
and the glow of a fireside hearth at dusk.
Mendocino, perched on a
bluff overlooking the California coast, is a small town where the tang of
the sea drifts across the rocky headlands, and curlews drift on the wind. In
the early spring, the lilies, iris and wildflowers splash the hillsides, and
gray whales on their annual migration to the Arctic pass by in stately
procession. Hiking trails through forest glades wind past gurgling creeks
and inquisitive squirrels. Beyond the pebble-strewn beaches, the Pacific
ocean stretches to the horizon of the western sky.
The
town itself was once the site of a lumber mill, and the early settlers who
hailed from the east coast brought with them the architectural heritage of
New England. Even today, visitors strolling past the churches, store fronts
and homes of Mendocino, may be forgiven if they fancied themselves in the
midst of a little town in Maine or Massachusetts rather than one situated on
the California coast.
Joshua
Grindle, like his contemporaries, arrived in Mendocino in the latter half of
the 19th century and worked as a raftsman at the Mendocino Lumber
Company. On his marriage to Alice Hills, the bride’s father deeded a
two-acre estate to the young couple, and Joshua commenced construction of
their home 1877. Sadly, Alice died in childbirth before this was completed,
but Grindle eventually remarried, switched careers and became a wealthy
banker. The house that he finished in 1879 remained in the family’s
possession until 1968.
Today
the owners, Charles and Cindy Reinhart, rekindle memories of a more spacious
era as they welcome guests to the Joshua Grindle Inn. With its two-storied
white façade and green gabled roof, the Inn is reminiscent of the American
Foursquare architecture so dear to the hearts of Victorian New Englanders.
In keeping with that old-world tradition of elegance and hospitality, the
rooms are filled with Early American furniture, antiques and paintings set
against the backdrop of vaulted ceilings, four poster king or queen size
beds and wood-burning fireplaces. Blended into the ambience of yesteryear
are the luxurious accoutrements of today’s world—whirlpool tubs,
cabinet-concealed TVs VCRs and stereos have been installed in some of the
rooms.
Grindle
Inn’s main building and adjacent saltbox cottage are complemented by another
addition: a three-storied historic water-tower. Back in the mid-1800s the
town erected storage reservoirs—some towering to a height of sixty feet—so
that its residents could avail themselves of a piped-in supply of water to
their homes. The water towers have fallen into disuse now, but Grindle Inn’s
reconstructed tower (surmounted by a widow’s walk) is an emblematic tribute
to Mendocino’s early years. Country pine furnishings and a Vermont casting
fireplace lend an air of nostalgia to the lodgings in the water-tower. The
rooms on the upper floor, overlook cypress fringed lawns, and beds of
flowers drowsing in the afternoon sunlight.
Somewhere in the frenzy
of today’s world with its commuter-choked freeways, its technology-driven
tumult of beeping cell-phones and its tyranny of deadlines, we have
sacrificed the gift of the unhurried moment. Yet there was a kindlier time
when housewives prided themselves on the art of cooking; a time when we
peeled, chopped and stirred our apple chutneys or strawberry jam into bubbly
thickness and the wild honey which we dribbled over our waffles came from a
neighbor’s farm.
Relive those memories
when you join Charles and Cindy at breakfast—although at the Joshua Grindle
Inn, this isn’t a mere homespun meal. It’s an experience. The Reinharts are
gourmet chefs who offer their guests such gastronomic delights as Mandarin
Almond French Toast (served with maple syrup, a dollop of sour cream and a
twist of orange), or nutmeg spiced Baked Pears with vanilla yoghurt. Their
culinary repertoire includes Cider Braised Apples smothered in walnuts and
dried cranberries, Apricot Scones and Spinach Mushroom Pesto Quiche. In
response to the enthusiastic reaction of guests over the years, these
recipes are now available in a book called Mendocino Mornings.
Apart
from the splendor of Mendocino’s natural surroundings, the town plays host
to several writers and artists whose creations are to be found in craft
shops, boutiques, art galleries and bookshops along its Main Street. After
browsing through them, follow your way to Little Lake Road and Joshua
Grindle Inn. Step over the threshold into soft-edged serenity. A basket of
home-baked cookies and a split of local wine set out on a side table in your
room, awaits your arrival.
IF YOU GO:
Getting There:
From the San Francisco
Bay area the shortest route (approx. three-and-a-half hours) is along
Highway 101 to Cloverdale, and thence along Highway 128 through the Anderson
Valley. The alternative (five hours’ travel time) is to take Highway 1 which
curls along the California coastline.
Approaching from the
North along Highway 101, turn west on Highway 1 at Leggett, or follow
Highway 20 from Willits to Fort Bragg.
Things to Do:
Visit historic Fort
Bragg; ride the Skunk Train Railroad which still uses a vintage steam
engine. Drop into the Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens, or hike through any
one of four State Parks in the vicinity. Other activities include canoeing,
bicycling, horseback riding, golf, tennis, scuba diving and chartered
fishing trips. Several companies offer theatre, opera and concerts
throughout the year. The town also boasts a variety of fine dining
establishments.
The
Joshua Grindle Inn:
Rooms:10 rooms all with
private baths, six with fireplaces, 3 with whirlpool tubs/separate glass
enclosed showers, 3 with deep soaking tubs, 3 with ocean views. Queen or
King beds, parlor and breakfast room.
Amenities: Full
breakfast, afternoon high tea in the parlor, complimentary wine, luxurious
robes, concierge services.
Address: 44800 Little
Lake Road, P.O. Box 647, Mendocino, California 95460.
Phone: (707) 937-4143; Toll free 1-800-GRINDLE (474-6353)
e-mail: stay@joshgrin.com
For further information
about rates and policies, special promotions, Mendocino events, and a
selection of breakfast recipes from Mendocino Mornings, visit
http://joshgrin.com
IMAGES: COURTESY JOSHUA GRINDLE INN AND
FORT BRAGG CHAMBER OF COMMERCE.
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