Roughing it Smoothly on Little St. Simons Island:

A Haven for Shell Seekers and Bird Watchers

By Murray D. Laurie

The fifteen-minute boat ride from the Hampton Point Marina to Little St. Simons Island was just long enough to begin to unloose the bonds of our hectic everyday life and unkink our frazzled souls. Thirty minutes later, in the cozy living room of the Lodge, the process was nearly completed. As our assigned accommodations were explained to us, it sank in that we had traveled a longer distance in a quarter hour than we could have dreamed of.

As promised, there really are no TV's or phones in the rooms, no locks on the doors, and no parking lots on Little St. Simons Island, a coastal preserve off the southern coast of Georgia.  Cottages of a variety of styles and vintages clustered near the dock house no more than 30 guests at a time. Soon everyone is on a first name basis and the gathering takes on an all-in-the-family atmosphere at mealtime as newcomers are welcomed and introduced by those who arrived the day before, by now seasoned islanders who have already explored the seven-mile beach or observed the nesting eagles on the north end.

At lunch Chef Charles Bostick ambles in through the swinging doors to the kitchen to see if everyone is happy with the selections of the day, to be greeted with glad cries of appreciation and questions about what=s on the next day=s menu. Serving dishes empty quickly as they are passed around the table: a tureen of sweet potato and roasted red pepper soup, a basket of hot hush puppies, and platters of grilled chicken over mixed greens. Famous for his artful blending of Southern low-country cooking and Mediterranean cuisine, Charles graciously invites us to join him later for a cooking demo as he prepares tomorrow=s seafood chowder.

While the culinary acolytes gather in the kitchen, others pick up bikes at the tackle shed and head down the two-mile path that winds through forest and marshland to the deserted beach. Some kayak through the meandering creeks, and a pair of anglers takes a Carolina Skiff out to try for trout. The wise soul who opts for a nap in a hammock instead has no reason to apologize: on Little St. Simons, time is a friend, not a foe to be conquered.

Three resident naturalists lead a series of excursions tailored to the seasons, the interests of the guests, and the variety of ecosystems on the island.  Summertime is family time and the children delight in netting sea creatures and looking for shells on the beach. Birders from all over the globe have heard of the extraordinary variety of resident and visiting birds and come to add to their lists. We found ourselves adventuring one dark and starry night after dinner, bouncing along in the back of a pickup truck, seated on snug planks, as our guide Tyler used a powerful spotlight to pick out nocturnal creatures, including the green glow of alligator eyes.

Don=t think that all this back-to-nature activity and rustic charm means roughing it like your long-ago summers at Camp Iwannagohome. Not a bit of it. The fluffy towels, scented soap, and soft white guest robes rival those of the finest hotel, the bar in the Lodge living room is always open, and the gift shop carries a sophisticated selection of clothing, books, and designer jewelry.

But instead of a sterile, overwhelming lobby, guests gather informally in the cozy Lodge living room, around the fire if it=s cold enough, for drinks and hors d=oeuvres before dinner. We were treated to a wine tasting by Ed Travis of Southern Slopes International, five vintages from around the world, complemented by scrumptious grilled quail and chutney dipping sauce one evening. Browsers can borrow books from the library shelves or view with amazement the displays in the adjacent small museum, crammed with stuffed animals, shells and Indian artifacts, and other curiosities collected over many decades by the family that owns Little St. Simons Island.

And that is the key to the mystery of this pristine island reserve. It is still owned by the family of Philip Berolzheimer, a New York pencil manufacturer, who bought it in 1908. The Eagle Pencil Company needed cedar for its pencils and the islands along the Georgia coast were then covered with cedar trees. But when those growing on Little St. Simons  proved to be unsuitable, Mr. Berolzheimer bought the 10,000-acre island for himself.  Each year he and his cronies, the Eight Bandits, as they called themselves, traveled from New York City to hunt and fish and have a marvelous time. Like boys in a secret hideaway, they devised a flag, still the island=s ensign, a band of eight ducks and a running deer, "the one that got away."

Family pictures and memorabilia, keepsakes, and certificates of achievement hang on the walls, friendly reminders of good times in years gone by. Over time, other buildings, including a large stable, were built. In addition to the Lodge, which has two guest rooms, there is Michael=s Cottage at the edge of the woods, a secluded retreat much prized by honeymooners. More formal, and perfect for a larger group, is Helen=s House across the lawn from the Lodge. Built in the 1920s of tabby, the shell-studded concrete much used on the coastal islands, this three-bedroom house has the original period furniture and a captivating private patio. The newer River House and Cedar House have broad verandas and breathtaking views of sunsets and salt marshes.

Earlier inhabitants left their imprint too. Native Americans hunted and fished here, evidenced by their mounds or middens. All that is left of an 19th century resident is the solitary brick chimney overlooking the salt marsh, discovered along the Old House hiking trail. Like most of the barrier island off the coast of South Carolina, Georgia, and Florida, cotton and rice were grown here before the Civil War. English actress Fanny Kemble, wife of the plantation owner, vividly described the untamed coastal wilderness in her Journal of a Residence on a Georgia Plantation. Like a time capsule, Little St. Simons Island preserves these human and natural treasures, a rare gift for the future.

"We'll be back," is the wistful, heartfelt wish of everyone who visits Little St. Simons Island. It was judged to be the "Best Small Hotel in North America" in the year 2000 reader's poll conducted by the Condé Nast Traveler's magazine, so lots of others agree that this is a very, very, very special place.

FOR MORE INFORMATION: