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Cozy Choices in St. Croix

By Joyce Dalton

In a region replete with mega resorts, the Small Inns Association of St. Croix offers a number of charming, cozy alternatives. Comprised, at present, of nine inns and bed & breakfast establishments, the association restricts membership to properties with 20 or less rooms. For vacationers seeking a more laid-back, intimate experience of island life, a B&B stay may be just the thing.

Since St. Croix is part of the U.S. Virgin Islands, it comes as no surprise that most proprietors hail from mainland U.S. They first came to the Caribbean for the same reasons as their guests, looking for the perfect tropical spot to relax and unwind for a couple of weeks. Each, however, became hooked and the fast pace of career advancement grew less and less attractive. Within varying amounts of time and varying degrees of searching for the right spot (in at least one case, the future innkeepers checked out possibilities as far afield as the South Pacific), each chose St. Croix. None expressed the least regret.

On a recent trip, I stayed at or visited six St. Croix B&Bs and small inns, all members of the Small Inns Association. A run-down follows:

Innparadise

Situated on a hill overlooking Christiansted, Innparadise is the type of place that comes to mind when one thinks “B&B.” Its five guest rooms are pretty and cozy, while the spacious airy living/dining/bar area is attractively, but comfortably, furnished and enhanced with nice artwork. Ample windows and a balcony provide sea views and a typically Caribbean ambience. Three guest rooms feature en suite facilities, while the others are equipped with a sink and shared bath. Each room has a mini-fridge, TV, ceiling fan and air-conditioning.

The bar is self-service and complimentary, both for alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks. Guests may also use Innparadise’s computer to access the Internet and check e-mail. Breakfasts are ample and reflect the owners’ Southern roots.

At present, the pool remains covered by a wooden deck, nice for sunning. The proprietors, Paula and Tommie Broadnax, hope to construct a restaurant on adjoining property down the hill. Other goals include expanding guest room count to nine or 10 and creating separate sitting areas and private balconies in four rooms.

Open for business about four years, Innparadise is the fulfillment of a long-held dream. While working for AT&T, Paula took a course entitled “So you want to be an innkeeper?” and discovered that her environment, a home seeped in a tradition of hospitality, had always been just that. She just hadn’t been getting paid for it. After multiple St. Croix visits, Paula became convinced she and the island were a perfect fit. When she married Tommie, he “bought into the dream and vision.”

Leaving Atlanta behind, the couple checked out numerous properties before finding a hillside spot that offered the light, airy vistas they deemed essential in the Caribbean. They set about converting the single-family home, aiming for a relaxed environment for their guests and themselves. They stripped the house, painted the dark paneling white, and replaced the carpet with large white tiles.

According to Paula, they still get excited each time a guest walks through the door. “We want to know who they are, where they’re from and what they’re like,” she said. “We want to keep our inn personal,” Tommie added, explaining that if guests want to use the kitchen or attend a function with them, that’s fine.

“We want our guests to take something of the island when they leave,” Paula explained. “We expect our guests to be wonderful and we’ve never been disappointed.”

Pink Fancy

A designated National Historic Trust site in downtown Christiansted, Pink Fancy is an eclectic array of four buildings painted in shades of pink, blue, green, yellow and pumpkin. “A Victorian paint job in Caribbean colors,” explained proprietors David Miller and Motasem Ahmed, adding that they tried out 10 colors before reaching a decision. Although they previously had operated B&Bs stateside, this is their “big venture.” 

Buildings cluster around the pool and several small but lovely courtyards complete with a fountain and lots of tropical plants and flowers. An elevated terrace offers lounges, a hammock and sea views. Some guests like to pick up dinner and eat on the terrace, David said.

Each of the 13 guest rooms is uniquely furnished and reflects a different mood. All come equipped with a good-sized bath, a kitchenette, cable TV, air conditioning, a ceiling fan, and a phone with data port. When David and Motasem took command about three years ago, all rooms received new furniture. However, “new” isn’t 100% accurate, since the majority of furnishings are fine antiques, a legacy of David’s years as an antiques dealer. Such touches include a carved West Indies four-poster bed, pictures in heavy gilded frames, a grandfather clock and Oriental carpets. Everywhere, guests find interesting art and distinctive decorator touches.

The oldest part of the complex is a Danish townhouse dating to 1780. The building later served as a private club for wealthy plantation owners. In 1948, a Ziegfield Follies star transformed it into a small hotel that quickly became popular with artists and writers, such as Noel Coward.

When the present owners took over, the property was quite run-down. As Motasem put it, “It didn’t tempt you to buy on first glance.” However, they realized the place’s great potential and undertook a total renovation, from paint to plumbing and electricity.

Within just a few years, Pink Fancy has acquired a loyal clientele, some returning two or three times a year. It has become a big hit with honeymooners and those celebrating an anniversary or other special occasion. With the romantic charm of the grounds and guest rooms and the hospitality of the inn’s hosts, it’s easy to understand why. Even the two resident dogs, whose collars identify them as Guest Services Manager and Public Relations Manager, have adopted the warm, welcoming ambience of this special place.

Carringtons Inn

Claudia and Roger Carrington arrived on St. Croix via Guyana and Brooklyn, NY. They purchased a spacious home, situated on Hermon Hill near Christiansted, in June 2000 and opened their doors to guests six months later.

Due to its hillside location and architectural design, the property benefits from cooling breezes. On three sides, the house U-shapes around a rectangular pool. The pool’s fourth side is lined with columned arches, presenting a spectacular view of sea and mountains. A comfortable living room, open to guests, and a breakfast area face the pool.

Most of the five guest rooms feature a private or shared balcony. All have ceiling fans, air conditioning, cable TV, direct-dial phones, coffeemakers, refrigerators and robes. All rooms are named for tropical flowers. My personal favorite is Morning Glory. (Guests wake to a beautiful sunrise and invariably think, “What a glorious morning!” Claudia said, explaining the name.) Its white bed is draped with lace-trimmed white cloth that billows in the breeze in true Caribbean photo-shoot fashion. The wall of windows overlooks villas and an old conical sugar mill.

Since her 20s, Claudia has dreamed of operating a B&B. “I could do this,” she would think when the couple vacationed at a particularly charming small inn. However, the corporate ladder intervened until finally, they reached a point of knowing it was time to stop. Lucky for them. Lucky for their guests.

Inn at Pelican Heights

Before Coloradans Phyliss and Fred Laue started the Inn at Pelican Heights, near Christiansted, the property belonged to a well-known artist, Preston Doan, and his wife. Over the years, Doan would build a studio, then decide to rent it out and build another. As a result, the inn’s six rooms and suites are housed both in the main building and in cottages. The inn is part of a gated community that includes a number of separately owned condos.

All rooms are spacious and equipped with private baths, ceiling fans, air conditioning with remote control, cable TV, phones, cotton robes, kitchenettes and lots of windows. Most have separate sitting areas and one features a loft. A particularly large unit boasts a master bedroom, a smaller second bedroom, a living room and a private balcony. The owners plan to add six more units on a hillside overlooking the pool.

Situated on a hill overlooking Pelican Bay, the inn is within easy walking distance of Pelican Beach. Snorkeling gear and beach towels are provided on a complimentary basis. The inn serves as a good base for hikes to check out the island’s old sugar mills or Salt River where Columbus landed in 1493.

A full breakfast is served in the Gallery, which offers views of the bay. One tasty specialty is “Peaches and Cream French Toast.” The main building also features an honor bar and a gift shop.

Villa Margarita

St. Croix is a long way from Moscow, where Victoria Finke lived before meeting her husband, Dan. Now, after a number of years in Wisconsin, they operate Villa Margarita, an attractive peach-colored home situated on the island’s north shore near Salt River National Park. Although the property stands some distance from town, a big plus is its location right on a beautiful, clean beach which guests have all to themselves. There is also a pool. The two-story home has no lack of windows and balconies to take advantage of the watery vistas. One upstairs bathroom even comes with a sea view.

Open just one year, Villa Margarita offers three large suites (studio, one-bedroom and two-bedroom). Each is complete with private bath and a kitchenette. One- and two-bedroom suites have living rooms, while the studio has a sitting area. Furnishings have been carefully and tastefully chosen. Fabrics are light and individual decorative touches such as flowers, draped material, and brightly painted wooden lizards add interest. Every room is equipped with a balcony, a dining table, a microwave, a coffeemaker, cable TV, VCR, and air conditioning plus a ceiling fan.

Because suites provide cooking and dining facilities, breakfast is not served. A rental car offers the flexibility of shopping for groceries and eating in or sampling the many interesting restaurants in Christiansted and Frederiksted. Guests without cars can take meals at the Columbus Cove restaurant in the Salt River Marina, less than a 10-minute walk, or utilize the island’s taxi service. The marina also has a dive shop and offers kayak tours. Villa Margarita operates on condo principles and there is no maid service. Guests are free to use the washer/dryer, fax and Internet. While guests basically move in and are on their own, “Of course, I’m here if they need anything,” Victoria said.

She and Dan first visited St. Croix on a cruise that called at six islands. After looking at properties on each, they zeroed in on St. Croix and have no doubts that they made the right decision.

Contact Information

Carringtons Inn. Rates: $100 to $130 per room high season, $80 to $100 low season, including breakfast. Tel: (877) 658-0508. E-mail: info@carringtonsinn.com. Web: www.carringtonsinn.com.

Hilty House. Rates: $120 per room high season, $95 low season, including breakfast. Tel: (340) 773-2594. E-mail: hiltyhouse@worldnet.att.net. Web: www.hiltyhouse.com.

Innparadise. Rates: $100 to $125 per room, including breakfast. Tel: (866) 800-9803. E-mail: info@innparadisestcroix.com. Web: www.innparadisestcroix.com.

Pink Fancy. Rates: $85 to $120 per room high season, $75 to $105 low season; one especially large room is $150 year-round. Breakfast is included for the eight deluxe rooms. Tel: (340) 773-6448. E-mail: info@pinkfancy.com. Web: www.pinkfancy.com.

The Inn at Pelican Heights. Rates: $110 to $200 per room high season, $90 to $150 low season, including breakfast. Tel: (888) 445-9458. E-mail: flaue@viaccess.net. Web: www.innatpelicanheights.com.

Villa Margarita. Rates: $ 110 to $180 per room high season, $ 90 to $160 low season. Tel: (866) 274-8811. E-mail: info@villamargarita.com. Web: www.villamargarita.com.

Images by Joyce Dalton

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