Small Inns and B&Bs Loom Large in MontanaBy Joyce DaltonMontana may be our fourth largest state but when it comes to lodging in this land of soaring mountains, fish-filled rivers, vast plains, Old West ghost towns, Native American culture and Big Sky, small is definitely the way to go. Across Montana’s 147,046 square miles, small inns and B&Bs, rich in ambience and frequently occupying historic dwellings, surround travelers with history and local culture. And of course, they provide comfortable accommodations enhanced by congenial hosts. Since covering the entire state would bring the word count to astronomical heights, I’ll stick to seven very special properties, primarily in the northwestern region known, in tourist office jargon, as Glacier Country. While Glacier National Park is the region’s top tourist draw, there’s no lack of additional attractions. These include A Carousel for Missoula, arguably one of the world’s most beautiful hand-crafted carousels; the Fire Jumpers Visitors Center, also in Missoula; Flathead Lake, the largest freshwater lake west of the Mississippi and great for fishing and boating; the National Bison Range, where close to 500 bison roam 19,000 grassy acres; St. Ignatius Mission, a 19th century church housing murals painted by Jesuit priests; numerous art galleries in the sports- and culture-oriented villages of Bigfork and Whitefish; 19th century Conrad mansion in Kalispell, built by a Montana pioneer and Missouri River trader; and a seemingly endless array of superb spots for biking, hiking, skiing, fishing or passively taking in nature at its grandest. Missoula, a logical starting point for exploring Glacier Country, is home to Goldsmith’s Bed & Breakfast, a brick structure built in 1911 for the University of Montana’s second president. Originally standing a mile from its present site, the house passed through various hands over the years, serving for a time as a fraternity house and later, as a Department of Zoology annex (two kinds of wildlife, some say). By the late 1980s, it was in such disrepair that plans were underway to raze it for a parking lot. Outraged citizens convinced the university to donate the house to anyone who would move it. Dick and Jeana Goldsmith took up the challenge. A crew of four literally sawed the building in half and transported it to the current location on the banks of the Clark Ford River.
Route 93 north leads to Flathead Lake. Just beyond the lake’s northern tip, the town of Kalispell, a booming railway center in the early 20th century, boasts two properties so special that a stay might be divided between them.
Renowned western artist Charlie Russell frequented the Grand along with various literary figures. Ownership of the hotel changed hands several times and the property fell to taking in monthly, weekly, even hourly tenants. In 1989, however, an owner who respected the Grand’s history and potential took charge. Two years of renovations converted 51 rooms to 40, all with private baths. The fine oak staircase and the high, pressed tin ceiling in the lobby were restored. On-site, the Painted Horse Grill specializes in homemade soups, salads and such entrees as salmon encrusted with roasted pine nuts and rosemary-lingonberry rack of lamb. The Grand's recently opened LaSpa offers a number of skin care treatments and massage. Keith House, a brick mansion situated in a historic residential district, was built in 1911 in colonial revival style with such Queen Anne elements as a wraparound porch and stained glass transoms. In 1887, Harry Keith, the original owner, left eastern Canada to seek his fortune in the Montana Territory. Succeed he did, rapidly becoming a prosperous businessman as Kalispell grew, thanks to the Great Northern Railroad which chose the town as its division point.
Early morning coffee is set up in the former nursery, conveniently located near guest rooms A full breakfast, attractively presented with fine china and silver, is served in a dining room highlighted by a massive carved white oak Belgian sideboard dating to the late 1800s. In the evening, guests enjoy a glass of wine amid the elegant, yet comfortable, furnishings in the living room. Cable TV and a VCR, along with a collection of old movies, are available in the library. To put yourself right in the midst of some gorgeous wilderness scenery, follow Route 93 northwest from Kalispell through Eureka, where a sign picturing fishing bears greets travelers. Dip south, crossing the bridge over Lake Koocanusa, then head north again until the turn-off for Yaak. This forested road follows the Yaak River through the Kootenai National Forest. Chances are, you’ll not meet another car, so it’s easy to think you’ve missed a turn somewhere. Eventually, the road passes through the tiny town of Yaak, home to the Dirty Shame Saloon and the Dirt-T-Shame Yaak-O-Mat (a laundry). Farther along, you’ll meet the road to Troy (Route 2), where the Kootenai River winds through 176 miles of pine forest.
A large deck overlooks the river, as does a wooden swing for two. Hummingbirds fan their tiny wings as they drink sugar water from the many bird feeders, while wind chimes add to the tranquil ambience. Teeming with rainbow and cutthroat trout, the fast-flowing Kootenai River attracts fly fishermen. There’s no doubting Marsha and Fred’s passion for this sport as fish pictures, models and memorabilia abound. Furthermore, names of fish identify each guest room. In winter, the region attracts cross-country ski enthusiasts. As a former fireman in Oregon, Fred has installed 21 sprinkler heads and nine smoke detectors. In addition to an emergency generator and air conditioning, an Energy Recovery Ventilator exchanges the air every three hours throughout the house. While in the area, don’t miss Kootenai Falls, a short drive along the road toward Libby. A wooded trail leads to the falls where swirling water races along to cascade over multiple boulders. A narrow swinging footbridge crosses the river. Scenes in the 1994 film, River Wild, starring Meryl Streep, were filmed here. Leaving Troy, return to Kalispell via Route 2 or follow Routes 56 and 200 back to Missoula. East of Glacier Country, Russell Country (another designated vacation region) stretches north to the Canadian border. Great Falls, Montana’s second largest city, is here. Located on the Missouri River, Great Falls claims strong associations with explorers Lewis and Clark, who spent a month portaging around the falls on their early 1800s expedition, and famed cowboy artist Charlie Russell. Utilizing living history demonstrations, guided walks, film and exhibits, the Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail Interpretive Center brings history to life while the C. M. Russell Museum Complex houses the artist’s original art and personal objects, as well as works by his contemporaries. Russell’s log cabin studio also is on the grounds. As a base for visiting the city’s attractions, Collins Mansion is hard to beat. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the mansion was built in 1891 by Timothy Collins, who followed the gold rush to Montana but gave up that dream in favor of law and politics. Architectural embellishments include gables, a verandah, paneled chimneys, bay windows, stained glass, moldings, a covered porte cochere and Queen Anne style wood finishings of quartered oak, dark cherry and ash.
During a tasty breakfast of baked apples followed by blueberry Dutch babies, similar to German pancakes and each baked in an individual oven dish, Diane likened the mansion’s restoration to a pregnancy, saying, “It was nine solid months but when it’s over, you forget the pain.” From Great Falls to Bozeman, follow Route 15 south to Route 90 east, a total distance of 177 miles. Called Montana’s fastest-growing city, Bozeman claims museums, art galleries and quite a few good restaurants. The major tourist attraction is the Museum of the Rockies which houses an excellent dinosaur exhibit, Native American artifacts, historical memorabilia and the Taylor Planetarium. The Pioneer Museum, housed in a former jail, is well worth a visit. Bozeman is part of Yellowstone Country, which includes portions of the great national park. In Bozeman, yet another historic home has become a B&B. Lindley House, built in 1889 by an early pioneer, is listed on the National Historic Register. Situated within walking distance of downtown, Lindley House has been painstakingly restored in comfortable, rather than grand, fashion, yet always true to its Victorian origins. Stained glass, bold wall coverings, antiques and a fir staircase are among the touches visitors notice. Each of the eight guest rooms and suites features down comforters, feather pillows, terry robes and custom soaps and bath oils. Some have TVs and all but two have private baths.
The present owner, Stephanie Volz (“Steve” to guests) devoted more than three years to restoring Lindley House. In 1996, the Bozeman Historical Preservation Advisory Board presented her with its Historic Preservation award for excellence. A short drive from Bozeman along Route 191 leads to Gallatin Gateway, an ideal center for a realm of activities including fly fishing, hiking, mountain biking, golf, white-water rafting, stagecoach touring, ice skating and wildlife viewing. A scenic 30-minute drive through Gallatin National Forest brings visitors to Big Sky ski resort. Another 45 minutes, and you’re at the western entrance to Yellowstone. At first glance, Gallatin Gateway Inn seems huge. In reality, the property, which opened in 1927, houses just 34 guest rooms. In those days, trains were kings and the inn, designed as one of the West’s grand railroad hotels, served primarily as a base for visiting Yellowstone. Today, it joins other selected properties as part of the Historic Hotels of the Rockies. It also is on the National Register of Historic Places. Framed copies of the Bozeman Daily Chronicle detail the inn’s opening, complete with pictures of guests arriving in grand touring cars. Before the present owners, Catherine Wrather and Bill Keshishian, purchased the property, it had known the ups and down of grandeur and disrepair; in the ‘80s, it was a roadhouse for rock & roll. “From glory to white elephant and back again,” as a spokesperson put it. Wrather and Keshishian undertook a ground-to-roof restoration. While most of the original furnishings were lost, all of the original architectural detail remains intact.
When it comes to lodging in the Big Sky state, think small for big rewards. Contact Information:Note: All rates are given for two persons and include breakfast. Low season is generally October through May. Collins Mansion. $78 to $88.40 (low season); $88.40 to $98.80 (high season). (877) 452-6798 or (406) 452-6798. E-mail: cmansionbb@aol.com. Web: www.collinsmansion.com. Gallatin Gateway Inn. $85 (low season); $120 (high season). (800) 676-3522 or (406) 763-4672. E-mail: gatewayinn@gallatingatewayinn.com. Web: www.gallatingatewayinn.com. Goldsmith’s B&B. $79 to $119 (low season); $99 to $139 (high season). (866) 666-9945 or (406) 728-1585. E-mail: dickgsmith@aol.com. Web: www.goldsmithsinn.com. Kalispell Grand Hotel. $68 to $115 (low season); $81 to 125 (high season). (800) 858-7422 or (406) 755-8100. E-mail: grand@kalispellgrand.com. Web: www.kalispellgrand.com. Keith House. $135 to $220 year round. (800) 972-7913 or (406) 752-7913. E-mail: keithbb@digisys.net. Kootenai River B&B. $90 to $115 year-round. (406) 295-1501. E-mail: rodding@libby.org. Web: www.mtbba.com/html/glacier.html. Lindley House. $75 to $275 year-round (discount for multiple nights). (406) 587-8403. E-mail: lindley@lindley-house.com. Web: www.avicom.net/lindley. For tourist information: Travel Montana. (800) 847-4868. Web: www.visitmt.com. (See TravelLady’s Montana: Perfect for All Ages for a look at additional attractions and lodgings.) Images by Joyce Dalton |
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Goldsmith devoted half a year to remodeling, opening the B&B in 1989. Four of the seven bedrooms are suites with separate living rooms and balconies. All rooms have private baths, individually controlled heat and air conditioning, phones and period wall coverings, while some feature fireplaces, reading nooks and Victorian iron or brass beds. Guests enjoy easy chairs, a fireplace, TV and a library in the downstairs common room. Next door, Goldsmith’s Waterfront Pasta House, under the same ownership, is open for all meals with both deck and indoor dining. Downtown Missoula lies four blocks away. 
Situated in the heart of town, the Kalispell Grand is a small hotel with a big history. When it opened in the early 1900s, the Grand’s room rate of $2 per night was twice the going rate of the town’s other lodgings. For that, the well-to-do guests received such unexpected amenities as door locks, running water and wake-ups. In addition to these perks, today’s clients enjoy Victorian touches including fringed lampshades, wing chairs and moldings, while the requisites of the present age, such as phones with dataports and cable TVs, aren’t neglected. 
After the Keith family relinquished ownership, the mansion suffered decades of disrepair, including years as a boarding house and as a home for the disabled. In 1995, Don and Rebecca Bauder purchased the property and began a 22-month, $1 million top-to-bottom renovation, converting it to a six-room B&B as well as a home for themselves. Each guest room has its own distinctive touch with down comforters from the well-known Montana firm 3 Dogs Down, vintage linens, Gilchrist & Soames toiletries, period wallcoverings and antiques. Some feature fireplaces, canopy beds, bay windows and clawfoot tubs. All have a spacious private bath, while in at least one room, the hair dryer rests in an antique china bowl. A carafe of ice water, accompanied by crystal glasses and cookies, stand in each room. 
In Troy, the Kootenai River B&B, a western-style log home, stands on the banks of the Kootenai River. This is a relaxed, welcoming place, perfect for those looking for a peaceful and serene setting, as proprietors Marsha Armstrong and Fred Charlton put it. The entire ground floor is set aside for guests whose four bedrooms are furnished with peeled log beds. Half offer views of the river and forested mountains. In keeping with the wooded setting, lampshades, sheets, comforters and curtains feature bears, moose, fish and pines. Each guest room has a private bath, hair dryer and telephone. A spacious common room, which doubles as a breakfast room, is equipped with microwave, refrigerator, TV, stereo, VCR, videos and magazines. 
After Collins “crossed the divide,” as an obituary phrased it, the house knew several owners until Connie Romain and Diana Unghire took charge and after extensive renovations, opened their B&B in 1998. “Something old is something new,” declared a local paper. Five bedrooms, each with private bath, are housed on the second floor, along with a lounge where guests can enjoy TV, a VCR, magazines and coffee. The largest guest room features an ornate iron bed, a fireplace and a black and gold décor. My personal favorite centers around shades of lilac, blue and white with a wicker bed frame and morning glory stencils around the walls and windows; there’s even a lilac and white bath. A third room, highlighted by an antique carved wooden bed, is decorated in tones of wine and rose, while its long, narrow bath claims a clawfoot tub. 
The Edelweiss suite, which is more like a small apartment, boasts a cathedral blue-pine ceiling with skylight, an antique canopy bed topped by a brass crown, a walk-in closet, kitchen facilities, even a washer/dryer. Highlighted by a carved oak fireplace, the Marie Antoinette suite is furnished with a king-sized bed and has a sitting room, balcony, large clawfoot tub and a fireplace. Smaller rooms have their charm, as well, The Garden’s French Provincial décor includes a wrought-iron queen-sized bed, a wicker loveseat and a private entrance off the deck. Guests can take a glass of wine or cup of tea by the living room’s cozy fireplace, enjoy a stroll around the enclosed English garden or relax in the hot tub. .
Carved beams criss-crossing the 23-foot ceiling, Philippine mahogany woodwork, high arched windows, a fireplace and an array of plants turn the long, rectangular lobby into a sun-filled collection of cozy sitting areas. The dining room, winner of the DiRONA award (Distinguished Restaurants of North America), seats 72 in casual comfort. Guests enjoy a tennis court, hot tub and swimming pool. Guest rooms, no two alike, are comfortably furnished, offering good lighting and drawer space, both ceiling fan and air conditioning, coffee makers, TVs, air dryers and quality toiletries. Continental breakfast is set up on the long sun gallery, just off the lobby.