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The Past in the PresentDiscovering the Real ViennaBy Janna GraberSummer mornings in Vienna are a treasure all their own. The air is filled with the smell of baking bread and rich coffee. Colorful flowers fill the window boxes that adorn each building, offering a stark contrast to the gray of the cobble-stoned streets. The narrow sidewalks slowly fill with varied pedestrians: Shopkeepers fishing keys from their pockets to open tiny shops, businessmen hurrying to the office, children playing a game of tag. These are all scenes I have often seen before, but still I watch them in wonder. Vienna has cast its spell, and once again, I’m a victim. Like most European capitals, Vienna, Austria is a curious mixture of modern technology and old-world charm. But there all similarities end, for Vienna has a nature all its own. Though now an international center for the United Nations, Vienna is a city that lives the present in the past, clinging to long-gone imperial roots.
When the empire fell after World War I, the remnants of this imperial past remained as part of Vienna’s culture. You can find this past alive and well in Vienna today. Just scratch below the surface, and you’ll discover it for yourself. Don’t be afraid to ask questions. The Viennese speak a “sing-songy” dialect of German, but most people can speak some English.
The image of St. Stephen’s reflects in the hundreds of mirrored windows in the modern Haas Haus right across the Town Square. The combination of today’s architecture next to a centuries-old cathedral demonstrates the constant conflict between old and new in this city. The Haas Haus, a three-story restaurant and café, offers the best in fine Austrian dining. But don’t let your dining experiences end there. Venture out to some of the local favorites, like Esterhazykeller on the Naglergasse, which offers typical favorites like tender veal schnitzel and roasted basil potatoes. The local Würstel (sausage) stands are often a good bet when you’re out sightseeing. You can grab a hearty sausage and thick slice of fresh bread for only a few Schillings. Almost every stand and restaurant carries a large variety of beers, the local drink of choice.
My personal weakness is the pastry shops. The Konditorei, as they are called, offer some of the most heavenly desserts I’ve ever seen. Viennese bakers have perfected the art of layered cakes. The most famous cake in Vienna is the copyrighted Sacher Torte — named for the Hotel Sacher where the cake was invented. This delectable chocolate cake is worth a sample, but be careful; it’s very rich! The Konditorei aren’t the only places you’ll find delicious pastries. The romantic coffeehouse culture is still thriving in Vienna. These Cafés are not just a place for coffee and a pastry; they are an entire institution. Some say that the coffeehouses are the “living rooms” of Vienna, where the people love to be. Coffeehouses range from the incredibly elegant (such as Café Central) to the everyday. But all serve their fair with a touch of class. Don’t take it personally if the tuxedo-clad waiter seems a bit aloof. The Viennese tend to carry this royal, melancholy air in everything they do. There can be something appealing about this – after you get used to it. The Viennese have a blessed daily tradition, which I heartily take part in, called “Jause.” The word means “snack,” and most Viennese take a daily break in the afternoon for a dark cup of coffee and a slice of cake. If you’d like to take advantage of this relaxing custom, head to the exquisite Café Demel, located in the 1st district on Kohlmarkt Street. The vast array of pastries and coffees at Café Demel is (literally) fit for a king. When the royals of the past weren’t sampling the sweets at Café Demel, they were reclining in one of their numerous palaces. The Imperial Palace, the Hofburg, is surrounded by some of Vienna’s quaint town squares. The Hofburg houses most of the Habsburg treasures, and is home to the famous White Stallions of the Spanish Riding School. Tours are available throughout the day. Schönbrunn Palace, the summer home of the Habsburgs, is only a short tram ride away from the Hofburg. This palace has over 1400 rooms, and was certainly large enough for the 16 children of Maria Theresia, one of the last Empresses. The palace gardens are even more impressive than the ornate rooms of Schönbrunn. Pruned shrubbery winds in complex mazes along the numerous sculptures, fountains and colorful flowers that fill the gardens. Feel free to wander the gardens at leisure. It’s an excellent place to take a needed break while sightseeing. If ever there was a city of music, Vienna is it. Many of the world’s greatest composers have called this city home. Schubert was born in Vienna 200 years ago, and Mozart, Haydn, Brahms, and Beethoven moved to Vienna later in their lives. Classical music is a household staple for the Viennese, and every good Austrian learns how to waltz at a young age. During the summer, the city hosts free open-air concerts in front of the Rathaus (City Hall), and in many parks. Other worthwhile cultural options to visit include the State Opera House (contact the tourist office for a schedule), and the Vienna English Theatre. The most well known cultural attraction is the Vienna Boys’ Choir. They perform each Sunday (except in June-August) at a mass at the Burgkapelle in the Hofburg Palace. Call the tourist office about reserving tickets before you go. Probably the best way to experience Vienna is to take your time. Stop for a morning cup of coffee at a local coffeehouse, and linger over the paper. Then wander through the narrow streets, browsing the small shops this city still loves. The Viennese treasure a slow pace, and take pleasure in the small and enjoyable things in life. When you’re in Vienna, try to follow their example. If you do, you may just find that Vienna has cast its spell on you too. Don’t Miss These!The Vienna Woods (Wienerwald) – The Woods are on the hills on the outskirts of Vienna. They are a quiet and lovely place to hike, and offer a clear view of the entire city. The United Nations buildings (Uno-City) are right along the Danube River. English tour guides are available. The Ring (Ringstraße) – A circular street that encloses the inner city. Most of the important buildings in Vienna are along the ring. The best way to see this street is to walk it, or take trams #1 or #2. The Danube River – River boat dining, and river cruises are available. Naschmarkt – An open air market with numerous food and merchandise vendors. Resources:Austrian National Tourist Office Official Austrian Tourism Web Site Vienna Tourism: |
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Vienna is well known as the city of music, and for its
famous coffeehouse culture, but most visitors forget the town’s royal past.
Yet it’s from this unique viewpoint that Vienna is best understood. For
nearly 640 years, Vienna served as the heart of the mighty Austro-Hungarian
Empire. The ruling family, the Habsburgs, stretched the fingers of their
rule from Austria to Hungary, and even into what is now the Czech Republic.
The royal family built beautiful palaces; ordered court composers (like
Mozart) to write dramatic music; and ate the royal pastries that were
invented just for them. 
St. Stephen’s Cathedral has often been called the heart
of Vienna, and it’s there that I always go first. Rebuilt during the 13th
– 15th century, the Gothic church has a steeple 370 feet tall.
If you take the winding stairs to the top, you have an incredible view of
the entire city. Be sure to look on the outside walls of the church for
remnants of the building’s varied past – a round circle which measured
loaves of bread for the local bakers, and the number “05" etched into the
stone wall for an Austrian underground resistance group during World War II.
Austria also produces some of the world’s best wines,
and these can be sampled at the local Heurige, rustic gardens where
wines and foods are served. Most of these garden-style restaurants are
located on the outskirts of town, in an area called Grinzing. Each
garden restaurant offers its own “New Wine,” with Austrian folk music played
in the background.