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Llangollen, Wales
By Barbara Ballard
Llangollen, clustered around the River Dee, nestled in
the Vale of Llangollen, and surrounded by hills is as scenic as it gets.
It is best known today as the home of the Llangollen
International Musical Eisteddfod. For one week in July this village comes
alive with dancers, singers, choirs and musicians from all over the world
and the village of 3000 people swells to 120,000 as cultural competitions
and celebrations dominate the scene.
The village takes its name from Sain Collen who founded
it in the 7th century. Two hundred years ago it consisted mainly
of a green and a street joined by one of the “Seven Wonders of Wales”, a
four arched bridge, built in the 16th century on parts of a 13th
century one. The river rushes through the village making the bridge a
favourite place to stand and contemplate the beauties of the area while
listening to the water roaring past.
Visitors are spoiled for choice as a 7 ½ mile (12km)
steam rail journey along the Dee Valley and past Horseshoe Falls provides a
scenic trip in another direction.
Another favourite ride is aboard a horse drawn canal
boat at the village wharf, location of the Canal Museum. This trip on a
branch line of the Shropshire Union Canal provides a relaxing contemplation
of the green hills and valleys as it follows the Vale of Llangollen. The
famous Pontcysylite Aqueduct, supported by four iron arches, stands 121 feet
in the sky above the River Dee dazzling the eye as boats seem to sail
through the air. Built to carry traffic from the northern rim of the valley
to the far side, this cast-iron trough is the longest and highest in
Britain.
A black and white timbered house, Plas Newydd, the home
of two eccentric Irish ladies, known as the Ladies of Llangollen, sits high
on a hill looking over the village. Lady Eleanor Butler and Miss Sarah
Ponsoby, who always dressed as men, lived in the house for 50 years,
entertaining famous literary and political figures, including Sir Walter
Scott and William Wordsworth. The beautiful grounds surrounding the home are
now a public park.
Hill climbers might almost believe the crumbling ruins
of the medieval Castell Dinas Bran, perched on another hilltop high above
the town, were designed with a challenge in mind. Breathtaking views are the
reward for the steep 750-foot climb. The 13th century castle,
named for a Celtic god, is partly surrounded by the remnants of an Iron Age
hill-fort and ditch. In the 18th century its status grew when it
was considered a “romantic ruin”, and it became the most famous landmark in
the Vale.
A stone’s throw from Llangollen, in a setting both
romantic and stunning, the Gothic stone ruins of 13th century
Valle Crucis Abbey beckon. The Cistercian abbey is the burial place (1236)
of its founder, Madog ap Gruffudd Maelor, ancestor of Owain Glendwr. It was
a rich abbey and a center of learning and literature. Unfortunately the
abbots in the 15th century lived “high on the hog”, bringing
disgrace to the abbey. By the time Henry the VIII dissolved the abbeys,
there were only six monks left at Vale Crucis. Much of the abbey disappeared
into the hands of thieves and homebuilders. However, many original features
remain, including an almost intact vaulted Chapter House, the west front
complete with a carved doorway and rose window, and the east front. The east
end has flattened buttresses framing the windows.
Llangollen is truly an enchanted spot, a gateway to
that country of enchantment, Wales.
Essential Information:
Llangollen is on the A5.
Llangollen Tourist Information Centre
Castle St.
Tel. 01978 860 828
Website:
http://www.llangollen.org.uk/
For more details, dates, booking tickets, etc. for the
Llangollen International Music Festival:
http://www.international-eisteddfod.co.uk/
Horse drawn boat trips run April through Sept
Tel. (0) 1978 860 702.
The Postal Museum
41 Castle St.
The Victorian School and School Museum
Parade St.
Open Easter-October.
Plas Newydd
Hill St., Llangollen
Tel. (0) 1978 861 314 for opening times or check with the Llangollen Tourist
Information Centre.
Note: Do not confuse this place with Plas Newydd on the Isle of Anglesey.
Dinas Bran
On the A539
Vale Crucis Abbey
B5103 from the A5 west of Llangollen or A542 from Ruthin.
Open third week April to third week Sept, 10-5; winter: open site
Under the care of Cadw
©2002 by Barbara Ballard. Reproduction of this work in
whole or in part, including images, and reproduction in electronic media,
without documented permission from the author is prohibited. Images by
Barbara Ballard
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