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Spanish Home Cooking
Cocina Casera Española
by Miriam Kelen
Reviewed by Madelyn Miller
While in high school, I was an exchange student to
Madrid. I lived with a Spanish family and my memories of each meal are as
wonderful as the many world class meals I eat as a restaurant reviewer. I
remember my “Spanish mother” bringing home fragrant goodies from the market
and then spending the day cooking up gourmet delights.
How did she do it? Now that I am old enough to
appreciate her art, I can no longer get her recipes. Thank goodness there is
a cookbook, SPANISH HOME COOKING, COCINA CASERA ESPANOLA by Miriam Kelen.
Everyone has favorite recipes that you are not likely
to find in most restaurants. Good old-fashioned home cooking is passed down
through the generations and leaves an indelible impression on our memories —
and our palates. Americans are not alone in this respect. Just as a glazed
holiday ham or a blueberry pie just out of the oven may set our taste buds
tingling, a steaming and savory pork-filled empanada or a classic, creamy
flan have a very special place on the Spanish table. This traditional
cooking is the product of a mother’s love, a grandmother’s wisdom, or a
father’s inventiveness.
After
three years of traveling, sampling, and cooking hundreds of dishes, Miriam
Kelen has captured the very heart, soul, and flavors of this traditional
blend of cooking in her SPANISH HOME COOKING: Cocina Casera Española
(Cocina Casera, Inc.; 2002; $34.95/hardcover). Having compiled
more than 175 recipes, along with highlights and anecdotes of her
adventures, Kelen provides a delightful account of a venerable style of
cooking and its irrepressible guardians.
Occasionally Spanish cooking is associated with Mexican
cooking, but SPANISH HOME COOKING dispels any misconceptions with its vast
array of authentic
specialties. Just as Spain itself is an amalgam of distinct regions and
cultural nuances, so, too, are the recipes a reflection of the country’s
colorful diversity. From the bracing seafood of Galicia and the spicy pork
sausages of the Basque Country to the legendary cheese of La Mancha and the
unique, leek-like calçot shoots of Catalunya, Kelen explores the vibrant,
but sadly neglected, varieties of real Spanish home cooking. As individual
as the regional dishes may be, however, Kelen does acknowledge the common
bond shared through out Spain: the passion for good and a love of good
company with whom to share it.
As
the Spanish share their dishes with family and loved ones, Kelen shares
those time-honored recipes with her readers. And, as one might expect from
honest
home cooking, the recipes are usually easily prepared from fresh, common
ingredients. The remarkable simplicity of wonderful creations like Sopa
Castellana (Castillian Garlic Soup), Patatas a la Riojana (Spicy Rioja
Potatoes), and Setas (Wild Mushroom Sauté) is a testament to generations of
family experimentation.
Meanwhile, savory Pierna de Tenera (Braised Veal
Shanks) and Paella Mixta (Chicken and Seafood Paella) or subtle Pucero
Canario (Canary Island Meat and Vegetable
Soup) and Pato con Peras (Duck with Pears) evidence the sophisticated
complexity of classic Spanish dishes — with surprisingly little effort.
Then,
of course, there are tapas, or appetizers. According to one theory, King
Carlos III was tired of soldiers getting drunk in the wine cellars, so he
mandated that a cover, or "tapa" of cheese or ham be put on the barrels so
the soldiers would eat while they drank. In Madrid, where there are some
streets lined with quaint little bars, tapas are a way of life. Tapa
Mediterránea (Mozzarella and Tomato Tapa), Tapa de Camarón (Shrimp and
Avocado Tapa), Patatas Rellenas de Rocafort (Roquefort Potatoes) are but a
few of these tantalizing little treasures in SPANISH HOME COOKING. Since no
great home-cooked meal is complete without a sweet finale, Crema Catalan
(Catalan Custard with Burnt Sugar Topping), Pastel de Manzana, (Golden Apple
Cake), and Almendras Garrapiñadas (Caramelized Almonds) will have you
believing that the Spanish invented dessert.
Miriam Kelen has been around food all her life, whether
helping in the kitchen as a little girl, trying to impress newlywed friends
as a young bride, cooking for a family of five or carefully — and happily —
testing all the recipes for this book. Her love of travel and joy in
partaking in the language and culture of Spain is evidenced not only in the
book’s recipes, but also in the nearly 250 photographs she took of the
country’s food and people. Although she has written material for commercial
books, this is her first cookbook. Color transparencies of the book jacket
are available upon request.
5% of the net proceeds of the sale of this book will go
to an emergency food shelf network
Recipes from SPANISH HOME COOKING by Miriam Kelen
Patatas a la Riojana - Spicy Rioja Potatoes
"You have to chascar (crack) the potatoes; cut them
halfway through and snap them open. This allows the potatoes to absorb the
flavor better."
6 servings
1-1/2 lb.
small potatoes (1 to 2 inches in diameter)
1/3 cup olive oil
1 large onion, sliced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 red bell peppers, chopped
1 tablespoon paprika
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 lb. chorizo, sliced
1/2 cup dry white wine
Water
Guindillas or other small
mildly hot pickled chile peppers
Cut potatoes halfway through, then "snap" open. Heat
oil in large skillet over high heat until hot. Add potatoes; cook about 10
minutes or until golden brown, stirring occasionally.
Add onion and garlic; cook about 5 minutes or until
onion is slightly brown, stirring frequently.
Stir in bell peppers, paprika and salt; cook 2 minutes,
stirring occasionally.
Stir in chorizo and wine; cook about 3 minutes or until
wine is slightly reduced.
Add water to cover vegetables; add pickled chile
peppers. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low; simmer about 15 minutes or
until potatoes are tender.Remove chiles.
Spoon potatoes into individual flat soup bowls. If
desired, serve with salad and bread.
Chicken Manchego - Chicken from La Mancha
"In the old days women made the dough which is cooked
in the soup, but it takes a lot of time. So, now it's sold already made."
4 to 6
servings
3
tablespoons olive oil
1 to 1-1/2 lb. boneless,
skinless chicken thighs
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1 medium red onion, chopped
1 red bell pepper, chopped
1 green bell pepper, chopped
1 tomato, coarsely chopped
2 garlic cloves, chopped
3 branches spring garlic, if
available*
4 cups water
1-1/2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1 bay leaf
Few threads of saffron,
crumbled
1 to 1-1/2 cups wide egg
noodles
1 cup frozen lima beans
Heat oil in large skillet until hot. Add chicken
thighs; cover and cook on all sides until browned. Season to taste with
salt and pepper. Remove chicken from skillet.
In same skillet, combine onion, red and green bell
pepper, tomato, garlic and spring garlic; sauté over medium heat 10 to 15
minutes or until softened.
Stir in browned chicken, water, 1-1/2 teaspoons salt,
1/4 teaspoon pepper, bay leaf and saffron. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat;
cover and simmer about 15 minutes or until chicken is tende
Add noodles and lima beans. Return to a boil. Simmer,
uncovered, about 10 minutes or until noodles are done. Remove bay leaf
before serving.
TIP: *Spring garlic is available in the spring at
farmers markets, co-ops and some supermarkets. However, the soup is
delicious without it.
Recipe(s) from SPANISH HOME COOKING; Cocina Casera
Española
By Miriam Kelen (Cocina Casera, Inc.; $34.95/hardcover; May 2002)
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