Travellady MagazineTM


Spanish Home Cooking

Cocina Casera Española

by Miriam Kelen

Reviewed by Madelyn Miller

While in high school, I was an exchange student to Madrid. I lived with a Spanish family and my memories of each meal are as wonderful as the many world class meals I eat as a restaurant reviewer. I remember my “Spanish mother” bringing home fragrant goodies from the market and then spending the day cooking up gourmet delights.

How did she do it? Now that I am old enough to appreciate her art, I can no longer get her recipes. Thank goodness there is a cookbook, SPANISH HOME COOKING, COCINA CASERA ESPANOLA by Miriam Kelen.

Everyone has favorite recipes that you are not likely to find in most restaurants. Good old-fashioned home cooking is passed down through the generations and leaves an indelible impression on our memories — and our palates. Americans are not alone in this respect. Just as a glazed holiday ham or a blueberry pie just out of the oven may set our taste buds tingling, a steaming and savory pork-filled empanada or a classic, creamy flan have a very special place on the Spanish table. This traditional cooking is the product of a mother’s love, a grandmother’s wisdom, or a father’s inventiveness.

After three years of traveling, sampling, and cooking hundreds of dishes, Miriam Kelen has captured the very heart, soul, and flavors of this traditional blend of cooking in her SPANISH HOME COOKING: Cocina Casera Española (Cocina Casera, Inc.; 2002; $34.95/hardcover). Having compiled more than 175 recipes, along with highlights and anecdotes of her adventures, Kelen provides a delightful account of a venerable style of cooking and its irrepressible guardians.

Occasionally Spanish cooking is associated with Mexican cooking, but SPANISH HOME COOKING dispels any misconceptions with its vast array of authentic
specialties. Just as Spain itself is an amalgam of distinct regions and cultural nuances, so, too, are the recipes a reflection of the country’s colorful diversity. From the bracing seafood of Galicia and the spicy pork sausages of the Basque Country to the legendary cheese of La Mancha and the unique, leek-like calçot shoots of Catalunya, Kelen explores the vibrant, but sadly neglected, varieties of real Spanish home cooking. As individual as the regional dishes may be, however, Kelen does acknowledge the common bond shared through out Spain: the passion for good and a love of good company with whom to share it.

As the Spanish share their dishes with family and loved ones, Kelen shares those time-honored recipes with her readers. And, as one might expect from honest
home cooking, the recipes are usually easily prepared from fresh, common ingredients. The remarkable simplicity of wonderful creations like Sopa Castellana (Castillian Garlic Soup), Patatas a la Riojana (Spicy Rioja Potatoes), and Setas (Wild Mushroom Sauté) is a testament to generations of family experimentation.

Meanwhile, savory Pierna de Tenera (Braised Veal Shanks) and Paella Mixta (Chicken and Seafood Paella) or subtle Pucero Canario (Canary Island Meat and Vegetable
Soup) and Pato con Peras (Duck with Pears) evidence the sophisticated complexity of classic Spanish dishes — with surprisingly little effort.

Then, of course, there are tapas, or appetizers. According to one theory, King Carlos III was tired of soldiers getting drunk in the wine cellars, so he mandated that a cover, or "tapa" of cheese or ham be put on the barrels so the soldiers would eat while they drank. In Madrid, where there are some streets lined with quaint little bars, tapas are a way of life. Tapa Mediterránea (Mozzarella and Tomato Tapa), Tapa de Camarón (Shrimp and Avocado Tapa), Patatas Rellenas de Rocafort (Roquefort Potatoes) are but a few of these tantalizing little treasures in SPANISH HOME COOKING. Since no great home-cooked meal is complete without a sweet  finale, Crema Catalan (Catalan Custard with Burnt Sugar Topping), Pastel de Manzana, (Golden Apple Cake), and Almendras Garrapiñadas (Caramelized Almonds) will have you believing that the Spanish invented dessert.

Miriam Kelen has been around food all her life, whether helping in the kitchen as a little girl, trying to impress newlywed friends as a young bride, cooking for a family of five or carefully — and happily — testing all the recipes for this book. Her love of travel and joy in partaking in the language and culture of Spain is evidenced not only in the book’s recipes, but also in the nearly 250 photographs she took of the country’s food and people. Although she has written material for commercial books, this is her first cookbook. Color transparencies of the book jacket are available upon request.

5% of the net proceeds of the sale of this book will go to an emergency food shelf network

Recipes from SPANISH HOME COOKING by Miriam Kelen

Patatas a la Riojana - Spicy Rioja Potatoes

"You have to chascar (crack) the potatoes; cut them halfway through and snap them open. This allows the potatoes to absorb the flavor better."

                                             6 servings

                                             1-1/2 lb. small potatoes (1 to 2 inches in diameter)
                                             1/3 cup olive oil
                                             1 large onion, sliced
                                             2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
                                             2 red bell peppers, chopped
                                             1 tablespoon paprika
                                             1 teaspoon salt
                                             1/2 lb. chorizo, sliced
                                             1/2 cup dry white wine
                                             Water
                                             Guindillas or other small mildly hot pickled chile peppers

Cut potatoes halfway through, then "snap" open. Heat oil in large skillet over high heat until hot. Add potatoes; cook about 10 minutes or until golden brown, stirring occasionally.

Add onion and garlic; cook about 5 minutes or until onion is slightly brown, stirring frequently.

Stir in bell peppers, paprika and salt; cook 2 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Stir in chorizo and wine; cook about 3 minutes or until wine is slightly reduced.

Add water to cover vegetables; add pickled chile peppers. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low; simmer about 15 minutes or until potatoes are tender.Remove chiles.

Spoon potatoes into individual flat soup bowls. If desired, serve with salad and bread.  

Chicken Manchego - Chicken from La Mancha

"In the old days women made the dough which is cooked in the soup, but it takes a lot of time. So, now it's sold already made."

                                             4 to 6 servings

                                             3 tablespoons olive oil
                                             1 to 1-1/2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs
                                             Salt and freshly ground pepper
                                             1 medium red onion, chopped
                                             1 red bell pepper, chopped
                                             1 green bell pepper, chopped
                                             1 tomato, coarsely chopped
                                             2 garlic cloves, chopped
                                             3 branches spring garlic, if available*
                                             4 cups water
                                             1-1/2 teaspoons salt
                                             1/4 teaspoon pepper
                                             1 bay leaf
                                             Few threads of saffron, crumbled
                                             1 to 1-1/2 cups wide egg noodles
                                             1 cup frozen lima beans

Heat oil in large skillet until hot. Add chicken thighs; cover and cook on all  sides until browned. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove chicken from skillet.

In same skillet, combine onion, red and green bell pepper, tomato, garlic and spring garlic; sauté over medium heat 10 to 15 minutes or until softened.

 Stir in browned chicken, water, 1-1/2 teaspoons salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper,  bay leaf and saffron. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat; cover and simmer about 15 minutes or until chicken is tende

Add noodles and lima beans. Return to a boil. Simmer, uncovered, about 10 minutes or until noodles are done. Remove bay leaf before serving.

TIP: *Spring garlic is available in the spring at farmers markets, co-ops  and some supermarkets. However, the soup is delicious without it.

Recipe(s) from SPANISH HOME COOKING; Cocina Casera Española
By Miriam Kelen (Cocina Casera, Inc.; $34.95/hardcover; May 2002)

Back to TravelLady Magazine

 

Copyright 1995-2008 TravelLady Magazine