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Love at First Ice

Freezing Winter Temperatures
Turn the Rideau Canal into a Skater’s Paradise

By Patricia Kutza 

Fleming on ice….Peggy says it can be cold and unforgiving. I can vouch for both. Yet the hot spikes of laughter grazing my neck as trios of skaters glided by, made me feel that in this place ice can both embrace and constrict the veins.

Don't get me wrong here. The Rideau Canal in early February does not suffer fools. Hot pink spandex will do in an indoor ice arena. In the bitter Ottawa cold, only those swathed in the warmest outerwear survive.

I wasn't wearing hot pink spandex when I broached the Rideau adventure to a fellow skater at my Berkeley, California-based home rink. She looked suspiciously at me as if I was testing her global knowledge of rinks. It's located in Ottawa, …Canada, that is.

You see, if you are an earnest skater (who signs her autosignature in freestyle), discovering new rinks is a sort-of-one-upmanship affair: you get kudos for the discovery but also a side-wised glance not unlike the glance I once got from my Scrabble partner after my winning word ‘oleander.’ clinched the game.

So I was more than a bit crestfallen when my vacation pictures came back from the photo developer. I had documented the hordes of skaters enjoying Rideau's curves, the sled-pulled bundled-up babies, the long queues at the Beaver Tail huts (like Churros but flatter and longer), the incredible mosaic of colorful blankets, snowsuits and leggings: every sign proving that the Rideau Canal is indeed, at 7.8 kilometers, the longest ice rink in the world and from as far as my eye could see, frequented by some of the happiest people on earth.

Yet I had forgotten to show that you can actually stay so close to the Canal that  walking  over in your skates (guards on, of course) is common. For my fellow California skaters who don't think twice of driving 75 minutes one way to the rink of their choice…this fact alone IS the 8th Wonder of the World.

Max, of course, doesn’t need those pictures. This By-the-Pond resident gets his daily dose of the Canal when his master, bed and breakfast owner, Ruth Majoli, takes him for a daily stroll paralleling the Canal. Ruth tells me dogs aren't allowed on the Canal. I, in turn like any good skater who looks for impediments on the ice, prissily informed this press release-type fact to the jogging partner of a dalmation that I had just narrowly avoided.  His eyes informed me..'neither are meddling Californians'.

Plenty of those same Canadians who now skate the Canal approximately 52 days each year once prissily informed  Douglas Fullerton back in 1969  that transforming the Canal from its marine transport function to an ice play land was a pretty silly idea. Fortunately Douglas’ will prevailed and once again in 2002, 33 seasons later, the Rideau Canal is the centerpiece of Ottawa’s yearly Winterlude Festival. 

Winterlude has an unabashed love affair with water, specifically ice and snow. Dow Lake, at one end of the Canal, hosts the City of Ottawa Snow Sculpture Challenge. Most years at least sixty snow sculptures stand where just 2 seasons later picnic baskets will sit.  Near Parliament, Confederation Park becomes the Casino de Hull Crystal Garden, attracting world-class ice carvers bent on creating some of the best temporal art on the planet.

At least a hundred like-minded folk like myself stood in a very serious snowstorm to watch artists like Japan's Hideo Fujiyama have their way with huge blocks of ice.  Celebrating its fifteenth year, the Crystal Garden challenge has drawn such international talent as British Canadian Hiroshi Takahashi, France-based Steve Armance and Samuel Girault as well as the hometown favorites Armando and Antonio Baisas from Hull, Quebec.

Ice is a siren needing noise as well as silence. As Fujiyama's screeching chainsaw sliced deep into a crystalline shape my thoughts wandered again to my home rink where skaters do 'patch' in the wee hours of the morning. Each skater's patch is a piece of perfect ice to be etched into the art of figures, etched carefully, etched silently.

I've seen these skaters flinch when the Zamboni machine eventually flattens their inscriptions. On my final swing through the Crystal Garden one unseasonably warm morning, I noticed that Fujiyama’s panther, so fierce the night before, was tamed by another type of bulldozer. Ice may be cold and unforgiving. But on this morning, it was the sun who had the final say.

Contact Information:

Ottawa's Winterlude Festival is held yearly during the first three weeks of February.

For more information consult the Winterlude 2003 Website at   http://www.capcan.ca/winterlude  or call 1 800 465-1867.

Ice carving was an Olympic event at the Provo, Utah-based 2002 Winter Olympics.  Thirty two-person teams were given ten blocks of ice and seventeen hours to complete their submissions.  For more information consult:  http://www.nica.org/olympics.html.

By-the-Pond Bed and Breakfast
18 Wilton Crescent, Ottawa, ON
(613) 236-5693
http://www.ottawaplus.ca/roundup/7865

Images by Patricia Kutza

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