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Hotel Grand Pacific
The Pacific Restaurant and Terrace
By Barbara Ballard
Hotel
restaurants are generally a place to go for convenience’s sake rather than
for outstanding cuisine. Not so at the Hotel Grand Pacific’s new Pacific
Restaurant and Terrace, where taste treats abound.
The restaurant provides
informal all-day dining for family, and, at the same time, manages to be a
venue for a special meal. Fresh Pacific Northwest seafood is artfully
combined with fresh, local garden ingredients to create taste treats that
Executive Chef Alan van Tassell describes as West Coast fusion cuisine. Both
the Executive Chef and Sous Chef Andrew Stigant (formerly of the Wickannish
Inn) manage to create interesting combinations of flavours without resorting
to obscure combinations or meaningless ingredients. Food is beautifully
presented with just the right amount of artistic garnish.
The restaurant’s wine
list, broken down by flavours rather than varieties, presents colourful and
appealing descriptions of each wine’s flavours. For example, the list
includes “white wines that are fruity”, “white wines that are richer in
taste”, “red wines lighter in style”, and “spicy red wines”. This was my
first encounter with a wine menu detailed in this manner. It is certainly a
help when making a wine choice. 70-75% of the wines on the list are from the
Pacific Northwest. The restaurant is currently working on a collection of
vintage wines. Prices range from a glass of Okanagan wine at $4.50 to
bottles that go from an Australian at $23 up to Roderer’s Crystal Brut
(French champagne) for $320 to celebrate that lottery win.
Breakfast, lunch, and
dinner are served in the Pacific Restaurant. My companion and I were there
for an evening meal. An appetizer of duck confit was rich in flavour and
well balanced with piquant apple and shallot chutney that cut the richness
of the duck. Baked portabellini mushrooms stuffed with a mixture of spinach,
artichokes, roasted red peppers and cream cheese, and topped with a
sprinkling of sweet potato chips was outstanding. I could make a meal of
this appetizer. The mixture of flavours showed real genius. The prawn bisque
with lobster soufflé whispered, rather than shouted, its prawn flavour.
The West Coast BC
pan-seared halibut fillet arrived on a bed of marmalade (ingredients
included orange, Brie, green peppercorn, and brandy) and proved to be a
perfect taste combination. The free-range Vancouver Island chicken breast,
baked with lemon thyme and rubbed with garlic, sat in a delicious au jus.
More would have been even better. Both main courses were accompanied with a
serving of baby vegetables, perfectly cooked and still crisp—snow peas,
carrots, and baby tomatoes. An interesting scalloped potato and beet slice
left me wanting more.
The restaurant changes
its menus seasonally. Other mains could include Vancouver Island ostrich, BC
salmon, Australian lamb, and a seafood mixed grill. Various soups and salads
are offered and include an organic salad. Light fare and vegetarian
alternatives are available. The teriyaki and black bean stirfry is well
worth ordering.
Chocolate lovers will
be happy to know that the Executive Chef’s signature dish is chocolate
fondue cake, a warm molten chocolate cake with French vanilla ice cream.
Other mouth watering dessert selections on the menu were sorbet sample
plate, fruit flan, white chocolate raspberry torte, and apple and blackberry
crisp. There are specialty coffees as well, but we were happy to finish off
with a superior tasting latte.
The restaurant décor is
in the hotel’s colours of green and rose, attractive without being overdone.
Fresh flowers on the tables add a nice touch. The location between the
entry, check-in desk and the outdoor terrace means there is a lot of traffic
and things can get quite noisy with all the chatter and music playing. If
you want something quieter and more intimate, or for a really special event,
book a table at ‘The Mark’, a room off the main restaurant. The table d’
hôte menu entitles you to a table for the evening, a relaxing, luxurious and
unhurried way to dine.
The Courtyard Café,
with indoor and outdoor seating on the terrace, serves up snacks and deli
meals along with a great view of the harbour and the world walking by.
Essential Information
The Pacific
Restaurant and Terrace
Hotel Grand Pacific
463 Belleville St.
Victoria, BC
V8V 1X3
Tel. 250 386-0450
Toll free: 1-800-663-7550
Underground parking
provided
Restaurant hours 6:30am-10pm daily.
Completely wheelchair accessible.
Website:
www.hotelgrandpacific.com
Email:
reserve@hotelgrandpacific.com
©2002
Reproduction of this work (including
photographs) in whole or in part, and including reproduction in electronic
media, without the expressed permission of the author, Barbara Ballard, is
prohibited.
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