Hotel Grand PacificThe Pacific Restaurant and TerraceBy Barbara Ballard
The restaurant provides informal all-day dining for family, and, at the same time, manages to be a venue for a special meal. Fresh Pacific Northwest seafood is artfully combined with fresh, local garden ingredients to create taste treats that Executive Chef Alan van Tassell describes as West Coast fusion cuisine. Both the Executive Chef and Sous Chef Andrew Stigant (formerly of the Wickannish Inn) manage to create interesting combinations of flavours without resorting to obscure combinations or meaningless ingredients. Food is beautifully presented with just the right amount of artistic garnish. The restaurant’s wine list, broken down by flavours rather than varieties, presents colourful and appealing descriptions of each wine’s flavours. For example, the list includes “white wines that are fruity”, “white wines that are richer in taste”, “red wines lighter in style”, and “spicy red wines”. This was my first encounter with a wine menu detailed in this manner. It is certainly a help when making a wine choice. 70-75% of the wines on the list are from the Pacific Northwest. The restaurant is currently working on a collection of vintage wines. Prices range from a glass of Okanagan wine at $4.50 to bottles that go from an Australian at $23 up to Roderer’s Crystal Brut (French champagne) for $320 to celebrate that lottery win. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the Pacific Restaurant. My companion and I were there for an evening meal. An appetizer of duck confit was rich in flavour and well balanced with piquant apple and shallot chutney that cut the richness of the duck. Baked portabellini mushrooms stuffed with a mixture of spinach, artichokes, roasted red peppers and cream cheese, and topped with a sprinkling of sweet potato chips was outstanding. I could make a meal of this appetizer. The mixture of flavours showed real genius. The prawn bisque with lobster soufflé whispered, rather than shouted, its prawn flavour. The West Coast BC pan-seared halibut fillet arrived on a bed of marmalade (ingredients included orange, Brie, green peppercorn, and brandy) and proved to be a perfect taste combination. The free-range Vancouver Island chicken breast, baked with lemon thyme and rubbed with garlic, sat in a delicious au jus. More would have been even better. Both main courses were accompanied with a serving of baby vegetables, perfectly cooked and still crisp—snow peas, carrots, and baby tomatoes. An interesting scalloped potato and beet slice left me wanting more. The restaurant changes its menus seasonally. Other mains could include Vancouver Island ostrich, BC salmon, Australian lamb, and a seafood mixed grill. Various soups and salads are offered and include an organic salad. Light fare and vegetarian alternatives are available. The teriyaki and black bean stirfry is well worth ordering. Chocolate lovers will be happy to know that the Executive Chef’s signature dish is chocolate fondue cake, a warm molten chocolate cake with French vanilla ice cream. Other mouth watering dessert selections on the menu were sorbet sample plate, fruit flan, white chocolate raspberry torte, and apple and blackberry crisp. There are specialty coffees as well, but we were happy to finish off with a superior tasting latte. The restaurant décor is in the hotel’s colours of green and rose, attractive without being overdone. Fresh flowers on the tables add a nice touch. The location between the entry, check-in desk and the outdoor terrace means there is a lot of traffic and things can get quite noisy with all the chatter and music playing. If you want something quieter and more intimate, or for a really special event, book a table at ‘The Mark’, a room off the main restaurant. The table d’ hôte menu entitles you to a table for the evening, a relaxing, luxurious and unhurried way to dine. The Courtyard Café, with indoor and outdoor seating on the terrace, serves up snacks and deli meals along with a great view of the harbour and the world walking by. Essential InformationThe Pacific Restaurant and Terrace Underground parking provided Website: www.hotelgrandpacific.com ©2002 Reproduction of this work (including photographs) in whole or in part, and including reproduction in electronic media, without the expressed permission of the author, Barbara Ballard, is prohibited. |
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Hotel restaurants are generally a place to go for convenience’s sake rather than for outstanding cuisine. Not so at the Hotel Grand Pacific’s new Pacific Restaurant and Terrace, where taste treats abound.