|
TM
Wind Song
Luxury Sailing on the Costa Rica Coast
By Walter
Glaser
A HIGH-TECH SAILING SHIP OFFERS THE ULTIMATE LUXURY CRUISE ALONG THE
COAST OF COSTA RICA.
Summer
in Costa Rica is hot. Very
hot! And as our coach
descends the steep mountainside that leads down to Puerto Caldera, the
heat is almost palpable. But as we round a corner we forget all about the heat.
There, lying in the Bay is one
of the most stunning-looking ships in the world, a sleek, white
four-master of perfect, elegant proportions that takes modern hi-tech
cruise-sailing to its ultimate form.
This is our first sight of our home-to-be for a week.
We
had been looking for a special cruise-holiday that combined luxury,
romance, story-book adventure with an ecological and wildlife aspect to
it, so a cruise along the coast of Costa Rica on this superb vessel
promised to be the ultimate experience.
It was, and it took us to the kind of natural wildlife habitat
that many people only read about.
Costa
Rica is like no other nation in Latin America. It is a relatively
undeveloped, and completely fascinating country, and perhaps a little
explanation is in order at this point. Before gaining independence from
Spain, it had been a sleepy back-water of the Spanish Empire in Central
America, its lack of gold and other resources making it relatively
unimportant to the Spaniards. Consequently
even the Spanish Inquisition passed over this sparsely-populated country
with a minimum of upheaval.
After
gaining independence, Costa Rica had become the original Banana
Republic, its main crops being bananas and coffee, both still major
exports for this country. Today it has an enviable record of democracy,
a situation created after the Army
(like many of its counterparts in Latin America during the '40s
to '60s) tried to take over the
government in 1948. The coup failed and the government
realized that the greatest danger was from within, rather than from
neighboring invaders. So
the nation's leaders did something that those of no other country before
or since have dared to do. They
passed a decree dismissing all the armed forces, and decided to spend
the money saved, on health,
education, and the restoration of the ecology.
The
results have been remarkable. Costa
Rica now has one of the highest literacy
rates in the world, completely unmatched by any other less-developed
country. It's health
services are also quite exemplary, and one can drink the tap-water
throughout the nation without taking one's life into one's hands.
A major program to restore much of the forest and wildlife of the
country is also in place, and it is probably easier to see the fabulous
flora and fauna of Central America here than in any of the neighboring
areas.
The
population is still relatively small and much of the employment is based
on agriculture and tourism. But with the outstanding educational and
university system that the Costa Ricans have put in place, the country
is making substantial strides forward economically.
Intel, the world's leading computer chip company, has just
completed building its largest international plant in the capital of San
Jose. By 1999, this one
computer-chip plant will have an output worth more than the total coffee
and banana crops put together.
We
had heard great things about Costa Rica, and when we saw that the Wind
Song was cruising along its coast, we decided to combine a one-week
cruise on this spectacular vessel with a week exploring this
country. Here is one of the
most stunning-looking ships in the world -- a sleek, white four-master
of perfect, elegant proportions that takes modern hi-tech cruise-sailing
to its ultimate form. This
superb vessel, and its look-alike sister ships Wind Spirit and Wind
Star, offer cruises that will take you in style, to fascinating small
ports in the Caribbean, the Mediterranean, the coast
of Central America, and other interesting destinations.
We
had opted for Costa Rica because it was such an interesting and unusual
country, and one we had not previously visited.
And we would not to be disappointed!
On
most days of our cruise, the Wind Song tied up at one of the small ports
along the Costa Rican, and in one case Panamanian coast.
As the ship berthed in the mornings we had the opportunity to
disembark and take advantage of fascinating shore excursions. Late
afternoon the ship would
head out to sea, to arrive at our next port after breakfast the
following morning. Then it
would be time to go swimming, explore the coastline by boat, or head
into the canopy of the rainforest jungle on a different kind of
excursion.
Every
port we visited provided new experiences and adventures.
Without a doubt, the most unforgettable of these was the tree top
canopy tour adventure in the Rincon de la Vieja National Park, a very
different way indeed to explore the jungle!
As
we came ashore from the ship that morning, a bus was waiting for those
of us who had chosen this excursion from the several options available.
It was a very warm day along the coast when we started the ride
into the inland and up into the tropical rainforest to undertake this
unique adventure. Before
going we were warned that no one who was physically unwell, or who was
afraid or uncomfortable when it came to heights should take this tour.
Climbing
to a platform 80 feet above the floor of the tropical rainforest and
wearing the sort of harness used by climbers who scale vertical rock
faces, we used pulleys attached to our harness to clip onto fine woven
wire cables that zigzagged through the rain forest canopy high above the
jungle floor. It was a fabulous experience.
But
there were many other serendipitous shore excursions --- launch trips
through the mangrove swamps of Isla Damas to see monkeys, crocodiles and
snakes in their natural habitat, the
San Francisco estuary by kayak to get right in amongst the coastal
wildlife --- to name just two. Alternatively, there
were launch trips, jungle
walks and nature hikes. On Cano Island humming birds, giant frogs-and
the rare Olive Ridley turtles live in a protected environment and we
were enthralled with the variety and color of the hummingbirds we saw.
The
days fell into a pattern. Once
the Wind Song had anchored, passengers split into several groups. The
diving and water-sports enthusiasts set off in an inflatable Zodiac (an
unsinkable rubber motorboat with powerful outboard) to go diving and
water-skiing. Two-man
sailboats were available for a tranquil day on the waters of the
secluded bays where we anchored. Passengers who liked to explore on
their own could go ashore by tender to explore the stunningly beautiful
landscape around this spectacular and ecologically
fascinating area.
But
while the shore excursions were just great, it was the Wind Song itself
that made the cruise so particularly enjoyable. Usually the shore
excursions returned late in the afternoon, and by the time we showered
and changed, dusk would be falling as we made our way to the lounge. The
ship's small orchestra would be playing dance music of the 60's and the
cocktail hour passed very quickly and pleasantly.
Served
in the dining-room, dinner is an elegant, silver-service affair with one
leisurely sitting starting at 7.30pm.
In line with sailing-ship tradition, dress is stylish, but not
formal. There are no table assignments. You may prefer to sit with
new-found friends, changing tables and dinner-partners as you wish.
Alternatively, there is one large oval table seating about
twenty, where singles and couples can meet fellow passengers easily
and informally. There is a wide
choice of beautifully prepared dishes combining New American Cuisine
with that of France and Europe. An excellent wine list is also
available.
Most evenings it was 10pm before we returned to the lounge for
another hour of music, drinks and dancing. Then to the cabin for a good
night's sleep. By the time we awoke next morning, Wind Song would be
approaching our next destination.
The
Windstar Cruise Line ships are arguably the most splendid, gracious and
photogenic sailing-cruise-ships afloat today. With a length of 440 feet,
4 masts each 204 feet above sea level, and a sail area of 22,000 square
feet, they are also large enough for ultimate comfort. 148 passengers in
74 outside suites are totally pampered by a crew of 88 from 15
countries.
These
vessels are so technologically advanced that they have featured in the
Science Yearbook of the World Encyclopedia
and on the world-renowned TV series "Beyond 2000".
Today's
discerning clientele often prefer an elegant, relatively small ship with
only one class of accommodation and service --- the very best. Surveys
have also shown that many people were
attracted to the romance of sailing, yet were not always enamored with
the idea of 'roughing it' on a normal yacht.
One
answer was to create a luxurious, space-age style of sailing vessel that
could explore ports inaccessible to larger ships, and yet be
sufficiently advanced technologically and big enough to be as
comfortable, stable and well-equipped as the best of the seagoing
giants.
An
American/Scandinavian group, later to form Windstar Cruises, realized
that this market demanded something better -- an unregimented style,
luxury and degree of personal service which, because of the logistics
involved, simply could not be provided by larger ships. The Wartsila
shipyard in Finland was the one organization in the world which could
design such an advanced vessel. When this task was completed the
blue-prints were sold to a French shipyard at Le Havre, which then built
three identically sized, Wartsila-powered vessels --- the 'Wind Star',
'Wind Song' and 'Wind Spirit' --- for this group.
The
Wind Song's Captain, with a personality that makes him a favorite with
the passengers, loves the Wind Song concept. "It's the luxury and
romance of the sails that draws people to the ship" he says.
"We do have three small auxiliary engines of about 1800 H.P., but
at least 50% of the time we run on sail.
"We
have a very shallow draught and no keel, and this allows us access to
harbors and moorings unavailable to ships of conventional design.
Passengers wonder why, even in bigger swells, we have so little roll.
This is because we have stabilizers with a remarkable computer operating
a combined system of high pressure pumps and stabilizer tanks.
Technology
on this ship is remarkable. Our
computers read the conditions ---wind source, current wave size and
direction, and several other inputs, then calculate the roll of the ship
and what is required to minimize this. They then
program the very-high-pressure pumps to speed ballast water into the
appropriate tanks at the opposing rhythm to the waves.
This negates the ship's roll so well that we rarely heel more
than three degrees."
But
Wind Song is a lot more than hi-tech. Pampering the passengers is also
the name of the game here. The
charming stewardess who showed us to our cabin was available at the
press of a button to attend our every whim --- from round-the-clock room
service sandwiches or coffee on request to setting our TV for Videotext
news or cassette movies
The
185 square foot suites, all with portholes, are ultra-luxurious with
huge comfortable queen-size beds.
Our science-fiction designed bathroom with a surprisingly large
shower, was equipped with a hairdryer,
huge fluffy towels, an extensive range of toiletries and a
super-efficient (if somewhat noisy) marine toilet which accentuated that
'yacht' feeling.
Wardrobe
space was especially generous. Apart
from the regular amenities, we found
an individual safe in each cabin, a mini-bar, multi-channel radio, video
recorder, color TV, and telephones with world-wide direct dialing via
satellite.
When
not ashore we enjoyed the many facilities Wind Song offers.
We swam in the small but adequate pool, had a flutter at the
casino, looked at reference books in the library, gyrated at the disco,
and relaxed in the sauna and spa knowing that an excellent hair-stylist
was available. The boutique
was an opportunity to buy our souvenir T-shirts.
Fortunately we did not need to consult the ship's doctor !
Wind
Song aims to provide the best of everything and that includes cuisine.
There is a 24-hour
room service in the unlikely event that passengers feel peckish between
meals. Those in charge of the dining rooms make sure that guests are
pleased with the service and that meals are presented in an atmosphere
of informal elegance.
It
was Napoleon who said that an army marches on its stomach, and the same
surely applies to cruise ships. Surveys have shown that cuisine comes
just behind attractive destinations
and even ahead of cabin comfort in passengers' evaluation
of a cruise.
The
Wind Song's Executive Chef, German-born and trained Frank Ulbricht,
worked in some of Switzerland and Germany's top hotels and was Chef on
the Holland-America Line ships for many years before joining this
vessel.
He
has visited some of Europe's top Chefs as observer, so that he could
then adapt the best of their light cuisine to shipboard requirements.
His principle is that food must contain the freshest ingredients, be
perfectly prepared, and although presented in elegant style, be
plentiful.
Your
day on the Wind Song could start with an early 'Coffee and Danish' on
the deck, or a 'Continental' in the cabin.
At 7.30am breakfast is served in the Verandah Restaurant or on
the deck dining area with a sumptuous buffet supplemented by an
a-la-carte menu.
Lunch
is an informal affair, served 'al-fresco' on the top deck if the weather
permits. We enjoyed an
incredible variety of salads and hot dishes like stuffed chicken breasts
or shrimp kebabs or the All American hamburger. There was a different
pasta dish each day and to top it off, a selection of all-too-tempting
deserts.
Wind
Song has many surprises. Her sleek, white hull and four masts are
reminiscent of the picture-postcard luxury sailing ships of years gone
by. And then you notice the detail. Things like the sports-platform
stern, the 21st Century design of the Y-shaped funnels and the
orange-topped tenders --- motorized life-boats that are also used for
ferrying passengers ashore from moorings where the Wind Song cannot come
alongside to dock. Windstar cruises are not for everyone. In the
tradition of sailing ships there is no elevator.
If you are in poor health or physically restricted, you may not
be able to manage the two or three flights of stairs comfortably. Daily
activities are programmed for those who will also enjoy the landfall
excursions, and perhaps snorkeling and the other water sports offered.
Passengers
go home starry-eyed. "All my life I've wanted to visit Costa Rica
and do it in style", said a high-powered Florida lawyer the day our
Costa Rican cruise finished. "Sure, we have our own yacht back
home, but I just don't have the time to sail it to Central America. The
minute we heard about the Wind Song, we knew we just had to take this
cruise. It's been
everything we'd hoped for --- and more!"
I
do not have a yacht at home, but I know exactly how he feels.
And the high proportion of repeat guests on Windstar cruise ships
obviously concur.
RESOURCES:
There are four luxurious computerized sailing ships in the WindStar
Group, operating in the Mediterranean, Caribbean and Pacific.
For cruise details and bookings, contact:
Windstar
Cruises
300 Elliott Ave. W.,
Seattle WA 98119
USA
Phone: 206/301-5445
Fax: 206/286-3229
www.windstarcruises.com
Back to
TravelLady Magazine |