Mad King Ludwig Lives OnThis Wild & Crazy Guy Made Us Love CastlesBy Marguerite Jordan
From the moment I arrived in Munich for a weeklong trip through Bavaria, King Ludwig’s personality colored my visit. Romance, intrigue and tragedy followed him and his dear cousin Sissi, otherwise known as Empress Elisabeth, throughout their reigns. Both royals escaped to the beautiful Bavarian countryside, and found refuge in its deep fir woods, high mountains and lovely lakes. They hid out in rich rococo buildings and sometimes-simple alpine houses to avoid the pressures of their intense public lives. Contemporary critics found fault with Ludwig’s romantic, not to mention expensive, approach to art and architecture. Yet today Ludwig’s building legacy attracts hundreds of thousands of tourists to the south of Germany. In his 41 years, Ludwig created three major castles, all located within an hour’s drive of one another and all about one or two hours from Munich Airport. His stamp is seen on several smaller residences, including a couple that are really hunting lodges. IT IS THE LOVE STORY OF THIS TIME AND PLACE
Sissi was beautiful. She had a 19-inch waist and was a sports woman of accomplishment. A great rider, she rode Thoroughbreds in England and Ireland as well as Germany and Austria.
At the time when they forged their bond, neither was well loved by their courts. Today, there are diverse theories about the lives of both of these royal personages. Countless brochures and books have been written about them, and the jury is still out as to whether or not they were actually lovers. The Bavarian king’s friendship with Wagner was similarly enigmatic, but it is clear, from all accounts, that the musician greatly influenced the king, and vice versa. A CASTLE TO BEAT ALL CASTLESAccording to National Geographic, there are more than 10,000 fortresses in the country, yet one, Neuschwanstein, designed by Ludwig, is the most popular of all. The structure is what we think of as a fairy tale castle located deep in the woods, just minutes from the highest Alps. It is both exotic and familiar. Neuschwanstein is the original castle that inspired Walt Disney in the creation of his Magic Kingdom. When he sent artists and scouts on an extensive search for ideas and properties, they took measurements and and then returned to California to (try to) recreate the structure. Tourists never fail to comment upon the very recognizable turrets and towers of this beautifully scaled property, but usually they are overwhelmed by the actual details of the German original. Many visitors take a carriage ride up to the castle, a romantic approach to the enormous building set on a rocky precipice.
A visit to the nearby castle of Linderhof reveals yet another Ludwig creation, smaller and cozier than Neuschwanstein, yet still very lavish. Fountains and gardens surround this jewel, which was the only castle actually finished in Ludwig’s lifetime. The third castle, Herrenchiemsee, is located on an island, and was heavily influenced by Versailles. GREAT TOURING COUNTRY, NO MATTER WHAT THE SEASON
I am impressed by the hospitality and efficiency of most of the places I visited. In addition to castles, I stopped at resorts, rococo churches, monasteries and breweries (sometimes they can be at the same place!), theaters, concert halls, and beautiful inns, hotels and restaurants. There are a string of alpine lakes, the German Alps (including the country’s highest mountain, the Zugspitz), and an assortment of museums, galleries, artistic memorabilia, and fresh outdoor scenery that will literally astound you.
Like so many buildings in Germany the castles have hosted musical events of the works of the grand composers, such as Wagner, Mozart, Beethoven and Bach. Throughout the country even today visitors come to hear music and to see plays performed in special venues. Towns like Obergammerau, Garmisch-Partenkirschen and Bayreuth are famous for their festivals and draw people from all over the world. ONSTAGE LIVE: LUDWIG II THE MUSICAL
It is one thing to hear tour guides tell the king’s story, and quite another to view this spectacular production. The circumstances surrounding Ludwig’s death are still questioned. Ludwig’s body and that of his doctor were found in the nearby lake a day after he was declared insane. Was it murder or suicide? The closing act leaves the audience speechless. MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TRIP TO SOUTHERN GERMANYIt makes sense to fly directly to Munich Airport; many international airlines connect directly from the U.S. For great service, US Airways www.usairways.com has frequent flights to Munich. You will love the convenience and friendliness of this airport location as well as the amenities, including great restaurants and bars. The shops offer good value on both German and Bavarian products, as well as a large selection of international choices. The Bavarian Connection Peek Marketing Alliance SHOPPING TIP: Do not leave this country without buying high quality mens’ and womens’ clothing, including the justly famous outerwear like Loden coats and wool hats and jackets. Almost all sales staff speak fluent English. READ THESE FASCINATING TALES BEFORE YOUR TRIPYou could spend the rest of your life learning about romance and lore of the culture of Central Europe, including the history of the Hapsburgs, the Wittelsbachs, The Austro-Hungarian Dynasty, and of course the personal stories of Ludwig and Sissi. Start with these interesting books which you can order on-line from http://www.Amazon.com. Ludwig II of Bavaria: The Swan King by Christopher McIntosh REGIONAL & CITY TOURIST OFFICESMunich Tourist Office Bavarian Tourist Board Starnberger Five Lake District Bad Tölz Tourist Board Garmisch-Partenkirchen Tourist Board ENTERTAINMENTTo attend a performance of Ludwig II, The Musical, contact your travel agent or the production company: Ludwig Musical AG & Co. Betriebs KG HOTELSSchloss Hotel Lisl Bayerischer Hof Kempinski Hotel Airport Starnberg Residence Hotel RESTAURANTSFraundorfer Restaurant TRAVELER’S TIP At many restaurants, live music adds to your enjoyment of the evening. At this charming restaurant join in the singing for a wonderful experience! It is a great way to get to know your hosts and other German people. Ask Barbara Fraundorfer to tell you the history of the restaurant and her family. Text copyright Marguerite Jordan |
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Often doubted and frequently ridiculed in his own lifetime, King Ludwig II of Bavaria nonetheless lives large in the Afterlife. 
In 1845, Ludwig was born in Bavaria; he grew up leading a rather lonely life at the Hohenschwangau Castle. His tastes ran to art and music. At age 15, he attended his first opera by Wagner at the State Opera House in Munich. In his life he seemed to have had three passions: architecture, Wagner and his cousin, Elisabeth. 
The fact that she was eight years older than Ludwig, was married to Franz Joseph, the man who became Emperor of Austria and later Hungary, and had four children didn’t seem to entirely detract from the relationship between the two. The cousins both had a passion for poetry and nature. 
Its interior décor of royal blues and reds and greens and gold is lavish. Every surface is intricately decorated down to the last doorknob. Richly romantic paintings, sculpture, murals and mosaics capture the stories of St. George and the Dragon and the lovers Tristan and Isolde. Artists also used religious motifs and pictorial displays of minstrels and master singers. Wagner used many of these same themes when he composed his music, and both king and composer played with the ancient myths that characterize the German love of the baroque. 
Bavaria offers one of the most scenic tours in all of Europe, and the attractions are beautiful in all seasons. Although I often prefer to travel independently either by car or bike, I feel that this is a region well served by charter bus tours. For one thing, it is impossible to see and appreciate all of the great natural beauty of Bavaria and still keep an eye on the road. Its rich cultural heritage attracts the over-50 set, a fact not lost on large tour operators, such as Globus and Grand Circle who host thousands of Americans annually. The sheer scale of many of the castles, restaurants and other points of interest here allows large numbers of people to visit at the same time. 
While many Americans visit Germany because of prior connections -- their families came from there or they were stationed there for service in the U.S. Army – the reason why they return for subsequent visits is because it is a very varied country with a lot to offer. In annual surveys of American travel preferences, Germany consistently shows up in the top three European countries of choice. The reasons travelers give for choosing Germany are its great natural beauty, its vibrant cities and its tremendous culture. In particular, Americans flock to the musical festivals.
And now there is one more place, in a town that has built a stage, an opera and perhaps a cult of Ludwig on the Forgensee Lake at Fussen, minutes from his beloved Neuschwanstein Castle. Josephine Barbarino, the noted architect, worked with her husband Stephan, a producer, to create an amazing concert hall and theater production. She based her work on an original draft by Ludwig himself who intended to build a hall in Munich for Richard Wagner.
The modern-day fantasy opera is performed eight times a week on a stage that houses a lake. A real lake. I am not sure which is more spectacular, the actual opera house building and its setting on the lake within sight of the Alps and Ludwig’s castles, or the superb performance that shows the human side of this misunderstood royal, or the amazing techniques that are used to create the backdrop of the snow-covered mountains and the depth of the crystal lake where nightly the actor playing Ludwig goes to his death by “drowning”.