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Finally ParadiseWith the m/s Paul Gauguin in the Society IslandsBy Doug and Carol Eads
If we employed our greatest expletives and expressive adjectives in painting for readers a written canvas of Tahiti’s islands – We would pale dimly in the hue of her splendor. If we submit for you a sketch of muted green velvety ravines encircled by towering serrated volcanic peaks – we would still not have a complete panorama. If we sprinkled in hibiscus-lined walks to lovely waterfalls, and pristine coral bays of rainbow blazing tropical fish – there would still be unspoken wonders. If we added that Tahiti’s bounty was her friendly radiant people offering an innocent smile and not uncommonly a kiss on the cheek for visitors … still, we have failed with an incomplete depiction of the portrait that we will now label, Our Paradise Found … The Society Islands of French Polynesia. Tahiti and her sister islands are of the most remote tourist destinations on the planet and that is perhaps why they remain pristine compared to heavily trampled island destinations. French Polynesia is called the last natural paradise, by locals, and she has been popular for many years with honeymooners and celebrities. Luckily, this affluence of pristine scenery need not only be for newlyweds or the rich and famous. Background and m/s Paul Gauguin: Paul Gauguin (1848-1903), a treasured post-impressionist artist, moved to the islands trying to escape societal trappings.
Maria Gauguin, (Great granddaughter) christening day 12/19/97. It is fitting that the m/s Paul Gauguin is elegant in an easy European style for this area the French call the last natural paradise. She is relaxed and friendly … suiting this stunning island demeanor and the people living in paradise. “I have been Captain nine years. I grew up in Brittany, France on the sea … by age eight I knew I would someday have a life at sea. It was the call of seeing the world. Our Tahiti route is lovely, and I also enjoy the alternate route which includes the Marquesas. Everyone should see these lovely, remote islands.” Gilles Bossard, Captain m/s Paul Gauguin. Radisson Seven Seas operates some of the highest rated cruise ships afloat, and the Gauguin is no exception. She enhances the picturesque beauty of Tahiti and her sister islands and explores their wonders year-round. The greatest trend in cruising is relaxed elegance – meaning no tuxedos or formals! The tone is resort casual – a welcomed treat among vacationers! Slacks and open collared shirts for men and a similar relaxed elegance for women will be fine. No undue pomp in this circumstance of tropical paradise. The 19,200 ton ship glides at 18 knots through the sapphire seas of South Pacific Polynesia. With a crew to guest ration of 1 to 1.5 you are well attended. Spacious staterooms are smartly appointed with fine hardwoods, TV/VCR, refrigerator, complimentary beverages, marble baths, fresh flowers, robes, and magnificently attended by the staff. You might select one of the many balconied cabins for your peek at paradise. The Polynesian itinerary attracts patrons that comprehend the wonders of such a splendid destination like the Society Islands. Guests rewarding their lives with a cut-above-vacation-option appreciated the itinerary and the smaller ship accommodating 320 patrons. There seemed to be more open deck and inside space per passenger on the Gauguin than any ship we have visited. Arriving: You will board the Paul Gauguin on the island named Tahiti. The French territory has deep Polynesian pride, yet a respect for the advantages the French have brought to the area in benefits and services. Tahiti is a favorite with many locals for its beauty; however we failed to plan enough time for exploring this largest island in the group. Papeete, the capital city, was clean and orderly. Papeete has recently undergone a multi-million dollar restoration and renewal. Its extensive suburbs are active, as Tahiti is populated with 140,000 people, but in a pleasing metro-suburban island atmosphere. Arrive two days before your cruise and stay at a breezy Tahitian style hotel, like Le Meridian. This will help you adjust to the time changes, and allows time for exploring Tahiti! We found flying to Los Angeles and transferring to Air Tahiti Nui saved money. This was a good choice, as Air Tahiti Nui uses modern equipment and has above average food and services. Itinerary: The Paul Gauguin sails first for the island of Raiatea, 115 miles from Tahiti. Mount Tefateaiti dominates Raiatea, and is engulfed with lush foliage. Picture small villages surrounded by volcanic peaks and calm clear azure bays – you become part of an idyllic postcard. The Faaroa is the only navigable river on the islands. Our up-river excursion passed quaint typical homes, gardens, and wondrous mountain vistas. After the outrigger we boarded a four-wheel drive tour vehicle visiting old temple ruins where the pagan deity Ora was worshiped. Raiatea, the sacred island, surely was the loveliest island we had ever seen, but of course more was to unfold this week in this remote pacific heaven. After re-boarding the Paul Gauguin that afternoon, The Children of Raiatea were brought aboard for our entertainment and delight. These charming young performers enchanted cruising guests with their island dance expertise. I was noticing quickly that Radisson knows how to celebrate destinations with guests … this was special! Next was the island of Taha’a. Raiatea was laid back, but Taha’a was subdued. We enjoy scenery and topographical photography, so we took another island four-wheel excursion through mountainous terrain for astonishing views. That afternoon the Paul Gauguin moved closer to Taha’a’s motu for its beach, sumptuous BBQ, and water sports. Again the Paul Gauguin staff had painted a perfect canvas in paradise! A motu is an often habitable ring forming a calm bay around many of the islands of Polynesia. They are believed to be part of a collapsing volcanic phenomena.
On Bora Bora we decided to rent a car and take off with bathing suits, towels, and lunch graciously provided by the Gauguin staff. The island has some magnificent beaches, and is only 15 or so miles around. We circled one way, then reversed course, which as you know changes the viewpoint of photography. It was curious seeing homes with slender delivery boxes beside mailboxes. It turns out these were for home-delivered French bread … a yummy idea! Having lunch, a swim, and a gift shop stop took up the day. An exquisite experience unfolded in paradise. Day two at Bora Bora the Paul Gauguin repositioned to a private section of a motu tended by Radisson Cruise Lines. The rear of the Gauguin opens up with a delightful sports deck offering a complimentary array of water sports. Beach and water sports were the hot ticket this day. Some passengers preferred going back to Bora Bora for lunch at celebrity-frequented Bloody Mary’s, so tenders operated both directions. As the sun faded in this idyllic location, we had realized a dream to visit French Polynesia, especially Bora Bora. Our desires had been based on whim … but that whim brought forth a location where the wizardry of nature plays out in lush floral bouquets, and gentle people. Little did we suspect as we dined that evening that Radisson planned on saving Eden for the last anchorage …
That evening like fifty year old school kids, we chattered away in bed. As we closed our eyes, likely both of us speculated how nature might out-do perfection and form an island so spectacular it could eclipse Tahiti, Raiatea, Taha’a, and our long sought Bora Bora. In our sleepy dreams perhaps, an apparition like that of the character Luther Billis was looking toward Bali Hai in the musical South Pacific. We were actually in Mitchner’s fabled isles of paradise, and for Mitchner Bali Hai was in fact the island of Moorea. The Gauguin’s prow plied the steely blue tropic waters as patrons looked toward the magical Moorea. Mystically, Moorea appeared slowly on the horizon and guests were railing-bound gazing ahead. By mid-morning we could see her majestic jagged spires dancing in changing filtered light as clouds and showers darted among the mountains, valleys, and calderas ahead. One could almost imagine hearing actress Juanita Hall, as Bloody Mary, singing that haunting melody Bali Hai. As we anchored in Opunohu Bay, stunned passengers gathered in awe with cameras in hand … the splendor seemed to seize the soul. This was simply the most lovely island view most of us had ever beheld. Moorea was saved for last as the exquisite crème brûlée delicacy. Armed again with a lunch and beach-wear we rented a car for the day to savor this enchanting and appetizing dessert. Our first trek was the national park called the Belvedere. The upward winding road passed homes and gardens, and a spiral of dense tropical foliage. The drive was exotic … memorable. Once upon the high Belvedere Park plateau we parked and looked in wonder. It was as if time stood still and some prehistoric era took hold. All about were the most beautiful craggy peaks … vistas too elusive, thus mere cameras could not capture their essence. Close your eyes, and in your mind’s repose create the most enchanting lush tropical setting your experiences can muster … now multiply that many times … perhaps now you can envision Moorea! Overview: The Gauguin is stationed in Polynesia year-round, making any time the right time for your Tahiti and Society Islands adventure. Rather than guessing the best way to explore these verdant Pacific jewels … we highly recommend cruising. With Radisson’s premium rated Gauguin you get informative naturalist talks on star formations of the Southern hemisphere, local history, and topography. Coming away from an exotic cruise in paradise knowing and appreciating more was very nice. The Paul Gauguin is popular with honeymooners, adventurers, divers and snorkel enthusiasts, anniversary celebrators, and those merely seeking a wondrously resplendent vacation in a most exotic destination. Service is youthfully fun, attentive throughout, yet unobtrusive. The Gauguin’s full- service spa could make a week of pampering a delight. The many repeat passengers exemplify and validate why Radisson earns superior ratings yearly. After your cruise on the Paul Gauguin you may want to return someday to paradise and stay at a lush tropical hotel you noted on one particular island or two while cruising French Polynesia … or, like us you may have found cruising these crystal waters so exhilarating that you will desire to sail again with the crew and staff of the Paul Gauguin.
How does French Polynesia differ from Hawaii you wonder? There is no denying the beauty of the Hawaiian Islands. For one thing they differ in traffic. Hawaii has perhaps two million more visitors per year, and an immense number of hotel properties. French Polynesia for now attains the comforts of today, but in a setting that may resemble Hawaii some 60 years ago. Anthropologists agree, French Polynesia was the focal island group that sent out small- craft explorers that eventually settled Hawaii. Seeing the essence of this island culture is supremely wonderfully in every way. Seeing the ancestral predecessor of Hawaii is inspiring and delightful. Radisson and the Paul Gauguin certainly exceeded our expectations in both facility and service. Were we asked to point out criticisms they would only be in the mood of asking for a tad more colorful art in the Paul Gauguin 1890’s islands genre. If we could arrange the islands we would not have had the Gauguin arriving back at Tahiti for overnight on the last night … but the orchestration of leaving Moorea for last is an ultimately supreme way to end this exploration of paradise. Moorea is only 15 miles form Tahiti; therefore we understand the return that last evening. We always advise cruisers to ask for cabin upgrades, free or reduced air programs, and discounts. This makes you a wiser consumer, and if it is possible you will likely be accommodated with some of your wish list. Toward the end of our tropic odyssey the lovely and sweet Hinano Tunoa, a princess descended from the great Tamatoa V of the Pomore dynasty, told us to tell readers this simple and lovely thought … “La Orana … Mai Haerev nia i to’u nei fenua nehenehe.” (Good day – Please, come to my lovely islands!) From this time on in our lives all claret sunsets, all cerulean waters, all picturesque volcanic scenes are now measured by our new impressions of Tahiti, Raiatea, Taha’a, Bora Bora, and the mystical Bali Hai … Moorea. We did not cast a flower into the seas to foretell our possible return … instead, we left our hearts upon her beaches, her coastal byways, and with the lovely Polynesians … we hope one day to retrieve hearts left in paradise … TRIP GUIDE:Radisson Seven Seas Cruises Tahiti Tourism Air Tahiti Nui Le Meridian Hotel of Tahiti |
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TM
“Paradise can be found, for without that possibility
why would nature make the desire so intense and instinctive?” – John Updike,
author 1932-
The m/s Paul Gauguin is no exception to Gauguin’s
standards: “To me the spirit of this ship shows a true respect for who he
was in life as expressed in his art … In looking at this beautiful ship I’m
even more proud it carries the name Gauguin.” 
Our next stop was an island steeped in mystique just
saying its name. We could not recall why and how either of us first knew of
Bora Bora. Perhaps photos of the fabled island had formed some lingering
unrequited magnetism over time … but at last we were here.
At dinner one evening early in the week the ship’s
hotel director, Frederik Gustafsson, had told us that while Bora Bora was
wonderful, usually everyone’s favorite was the island of Moorea. We knew of
Moorea, but could it be the loveliest of French Polynesia?
Final critique: The varied cuisine and the staff are
certainly up to their five star ratings. Radisson has top island
entertainment brought aboard, plus two lovely private beaches along the way.
A very laid-back atmosphere puts those who are tense at ease and the
stressed into a relaxed Polynesian mood. You can almost hear the passions of
the island drums calling once you step onboard?