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Chile: Brave New WorldVino, Vistas and AdventuresBy Marguerite JordanGeographers have been trying for centuries to aptly describe
Chile. A country this slender (115 miles at its widest point) is almost
unthinkable and, surely, would take the geographer’s prize for most unusual
shape. Not counting Ecuador, it is the smallest nation of South America. Chile’s job seems to be to keep the western half of the continent from falling into the mighty Pacific Ocean. Since it has some of the world’s most extreme forms of topography, weather, temperatures, rock formations, and land types, it was not the most invaded country on the continent. It has had an intricate, sometimes violent history, a fact not lost on its two Nobel Prize winning poets, Gabriela Mistrel and Pablo Neruda.
Chile’s past geographic isolation made it a distinctly individualistic destination. Today, it is a single flight away from Miami, New York or Los Angeles on its national airline, Lan-Chile to the capital, Santiago. Within the country, Lan-Chile connects with all the smaller cities. Chileans take pride in their airline which has frequent daily connections to numerous other South American destinations, such as its larger “chubbier” neighbors, Argentina and Brazil. 99 WAYS TO LOOK AT CHILE
Currently, a change is taking place. Adventure travel is still exceedingly popular, but visitors are discovering that you do not have to be 22, fit and ready to audition for “Survivor” to enjoy all of the other attractions that the country has to offer, many of which seem downright familiar.
VISIT THE ‘SMALL PLACES’ TOO
Adventure is what made the country’s regions famous, but creature comforts, beauty and kindness make the visitor want to return. For a first-time visit, it is easy to accomplish these two goals by staying in Santiago (see Santiago Sweet & Sassy). You are then free to go off and explore the parks, monuments, galleries, murals, little hills, restaurants, etc., and then, using your hotel as a base and an organizer, and then plan to go on three or four day or half-day trips to the surrounding vineyards, ski areas, horse riding farms, etc. Accordingly, the national airline, Lan-Chile, and hotels like Santiago Crowne-Plaza are arranging travel packages for all interests.
Reading the specialty travel tour brochures is like looking at a cook-book named “Ninety-nine ways to Cook Chili”. Here is one typical list: http://www.visit-chile.org/contact altiplano atacama birding central cruises culture day-trip easter-island flora-and-fauna fly-and-drive fly-fishing honeymoon horse-riding kayaking lake-district mountain-biking multi-activity nature overland patagonia photography relax robinson-crusoe santiago seniors skiing trekking walking whitewater-rafting wine-and-gourmet You never run out of variations because, in addition to the numerous kinds of activities, the country is divided up into zones as geologically varied as they could be and still remain on the same planet. TAKE IN ALL ITS MAJESTYChile is like a tightly furled, even crinkled, bandera (flag) that waves staunchly down the west coast of South America. Benjamin Subercaseaux, a writer and geographer, calls this long thin country ‘an island’. For 2400 miles, its undulating west coast rims the Pacific.
MISCONCEPTIONS EVEN 500 YEARS AGO, A MINI-HISTORYChile was settled originally 10,000 or more years ago by a number of tribes of people, who may originally have come from Asia, via North America. In early 1500’s the powerful Incas thought they could take over. They were wrong. The Incas were shortly replaced by Spaniards. Although fairly isolated, the country always had its admirers, including early conquistadores Magellan, Almagro, Pizzarro, and, the one who left the biggest footprint, Valdavia (after whom a port city is named). They thought that they would find gold. They were wrong. Other countries, including Bolivia and Peru, thought they could take over lands that Chile had claimed. They too were wrong. And, so it goes. Many people have been wrong about this brave little country. DISCOVER THE CENTRAL VALLEY, THE GENTLE LAND
We had been on our way to lunch at the top of the mountain, but, one thing led to another, and soon we were sampling the country’s most famous snack, Empanadas, a lovely little pastry confection, filled with cheese or meat, plus other savories, like onions, egg, raisins, and what-all. Juanita and her husband tossed several into their outdoor oven, a contraption that looked like it was created around 1750. We began munching and talking with Juanita, who has a sweet personality and a kind manner. The women in the group admired her radiant skin (“Nivea Cream, all my life.”), and soon we were discussing many other things. Our driver coughed and tapped his watch, and so we gathered up our cameras and pocketbooks, getting ready to get into the car. Well, by this time, we had become fast friends, so there were hugs and kisses all around. After we buckled into our seats, Juanita ran over and gave us candies for the ride, up to our next meal. The driver was about to pull out of the parking lot and once again Juanita came over, this time with little sample size “Blistex” packets, to prevent sunburned lips, higher up on the mountains. If she had had any Nivea Cream there in her mountain cantina, I am sure she would have run over with blue and white bottles for each of us. TWO EXTRAORDINARY SIDETRIPSThere is no lack of interesting destinations, and they can vary by over 100 degrees of temperature. Want cold? Fly down, or take a train, to the southernmost tip of the country and take a boat to through the Straits of Magellan to the Antarctica (parts of which Chile claims) and see the glaciers, icebergs, and cold-water animals, like seals, penguins and whales. Want hot? Go to the northernmost patch of land and walk in The Atacama Desert where not a single drop of rain has ever been recorded. Or, try something completely different. Offshore – way offshore -- are two sets of islands, both famous in different ways. One is the Juan Fernandez Islands, on which a British seaman was, at his request, marooned, for more than four years before being picked up and returned to England. His story, a legend in self-sufficiency, became the genesis of the tale, The Adventures of Robinson Crusoe. The other is a hauntingly beautiful island, Easter Island, long recognized for its isolated and unusual flora and fauna, and for the 600 giant stone statues (moai) that define the island. Some are almost 40 feet high, others are about 20 feet. There is mystery surrounding the origins of the people settled here, as well as the meanings of the statues, which show especially large heads on monolithic bodies. Many historians feel the earliest settlers came from Polynesia; others think the people came from coastal South America. COUSINO MACOUL, A TOP WINE
There is no charge to the tour which shows the steps the winery takes in producing a large selection of premier wines, and offers tastings as well. Although more reds are produced in Chile, my particular favorite at Cousino Macoul was a reserve Chardonnay, aged in French oak barrels. It compares favorably to wines I have drunk in Burgundy. I rarely buy heavy items while shopping, but I made an exception and lugged home several bottles of this remarkable wine, a glass of which I am savoring as I write this. Maria Estera , one of the guides, had studied in the U.S., and seems to love all things American. She and the other guides and workers were unselfconsciously charming, and curious to know more about us, the visitors. Our group included tourists who had disembarked from a cruise about fifty miles away, individual travelers, a family group that included two children, aged about ten and twelve. They seemed to get as much from the tour as the adults. The bodega’s setting is framed by antique agricultural implements and handsome tall pine trees. RESOURCES & TIPSPeople coming to Chile for the first time occasionally worry about their personal safety. It is a fairly safe country, some say, the safest in all of South America. The city of Santiago is no more or less dangerous than any other large urban area, but be sure to pack your common sense. Do not make yourself a target for pickpockets by wearing fancy jewels or by carelessly carrying expensive objects. Ask your hotel staff to call you a taxi. Petty theft is much more common than violence, but you do want to look lively when you walk, so that you do become an easy ‘mark’.
When it comes to packing, think layering, if you are going to more than one area, as temperatures do vary widely. Also, pack an expandable light second suitcase, because you surely will fall in love with the Vicuna rugs, the handmade sweaters, the copper and lapis jewelry that you see everywhere. And, yes, make room for the excellent wines. Although many other facets of travel in this petite country come easily, figuring out what the actual costs for visas and airport taxes left me stymied. It is entirely possible that during the upcoming season that you may find a deal on airline ticket prices, but figure on adding at least $100 (in your mind) on to the total for the pesky add-on charges that seem to be heaped on at will. Think back to that song of the ‘Sixties, “Charley on the MTA”, he the hapless Bostonian who couldn’t afford to pay the charge to get off the train, even though he paid when he got on. Tourism officials, take note, and review your policies. Consult the tourism sites about Chile to gain additional
insights. SIX CONTINENTS HOTELSThis large international chain boasts several hotels, for varied budgets and accommodation styles, in nearly all South American countries. Choose among the flagship properties, Intercontinental Hotels and Crowne Plaza Hotels, as well as Holiday Inns and Holiday Inn Express. http://www.sixcontinentshotels.com/h/d/6c/home LAN CHILE AIRLINESGlobal Finance magazine has announced the results of its ranking of the world's best companies operating on a global basis. For the second consecutive year, LanChile is named the Best Airline in Latin America. The national carrier has frequent flights from the U.S., both to Chile and other destinations in South America. http://biz.yahoo.com/bw/021007/72550_1.html LANCHILE VACATIONSLanChile Vacations is just one of many tour operations that can help you pull together a trip of a lifetime, whether you are headed to the Atacama Desert, the Straits of Magellan, Easter Island, or the grand Central Valley. Call toll-free at (877) 219-0345 or (801) 364-4300. 320 East 900 South • Salt Lake City, Utah 84111 • Toll Free 1-877-219-0345 • Fax 801-364-4330 DO SOME HOMEWORK FOR A RICHER EXPERIENCEMuch more can be said about the Andes Mountains for travelers who want to go the extra mile, both literally and figuratively. The following books can give further insight to mountain-lovers everywhere. Bernbaum, Edwin. Sacred Mountains of the World. Sierra Club, Reprint, University of California Press, 1990. 1997. Profiles mountains held in spiritual esteem by the world's various populations. Hubler, Clark. America's Mountains: An Exploration of Their Origins and Influences from the Alaska Range to the Appalachians. Facts on File, 1994. Describes the forces that make mountains. Julyan, Richard Hixon. Mountain Names. Mountaineers, 1984. Facts and stories about more than 300 mountains of the world. Kraulis, J. A. A., and John Gault. The Rocky Mountains: Crest of a Continent. Firefly, 1997. The geology of the Rockies. Morris, Neil. Card, Vanessa, illus. The World's Top Ten Mountain Ranges. Raintree Steck-Vaughn, 1997. A comprehensive look at the ten major mountain ranges of the world. Salkeld, Audrey, ed. World Mountaineering: The World's Great Mountains by the World's Great Mountaineers. Bulfinch, 1998. Prominent mountaineers describe their most revered peaks and ranges. Zoehfeld, Kathleen W. How Mountains Are Made. HarperCollins, 1995. For younger readers. Search for more books about Andes at Barnes & Noble Images and text, Marguerite Jordan copyright |
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Many today consider
it, with its motivated
and intelligent work force, its democratically elected government, its
numerous exports (wine, copper, fruits and vegetables and some manufactured
goods), and of course its beautiful natural features, the most economically
and politically stable country in South America.
Until quite recently,
only the most risk-taking travelers would take the time to explore this
country of kaleidoscopic and geologic wonders. 
It became a favorite destination of extreme adventure travelers who flew
down to Santiago, visited for a day or two, and then went off by plane,
train, car or bus to the geology rich regions in the hinterlands, near and
far, to rock climb, explore icebergs, trek in the desert, canoe, kayak, heli-ski,
bike, swim, fish, etc. 
Travelers from Europe, the U.S. and other countries in South
America are discovering the wonders of the country’s scenery, its justly
famous wines and lush vineyards and the kalaidoscope of cultural riches that
are found in every region.
As many people visiting for the first time have
remarked, in places, this long string-bean of a country resembles (take your
pick) California, New Zealand, Japan, Ireland, Scotland, England, Wales, and
– ready for this? – Germany. The German connection is strong, particularly
in the south, where in the mid-1800’s a mass immigration occurred. Just as
significantly, the English have long had a strong presence here, too. The
intricate railway system was designed and built with the help of British
engineers. An English bias shows up in names. A man named Hamilton from Lan-Chile
helped me retrieve a missing set of camera disks; football clubs seem named
for English viewers, and even pets have names like ‘Rufus’.
Throughout my time spent traveling the Chilean countryside, stopping at
roadside stands, restaurants, ski resorts or vineyards, I was amazed at the
warmth of the welcome. My Spanish is poor, and many here do not speak
English, but it didn’t matter. Connections were instantaneous. Lovely
warm-hearted people, shy at first, but genuinely concerned for my needs
showed me what Chile is all about.
It
is a country of good value and great shopping. While the early Spanish
explorers did not find the gold they sought, subsequent miners have found
some, as well as copious amounts of copper, lapis lazuli, jade and other
semi-precious metals. Jewelry and leather, fabrics, clothing and rugs are
all popular purchases. 
To the east, on its
other north-south border, the impressive Andes Mountain chain creates a
natural border with Argentina. 
The chain itself extends from Panama, in Central
America, all the way south to the Tierra del Fuego and the Straits of
Magellan, opposite Antactica. Since the seasons are reversed in the Southern
Hemisphere, many North Americans come to ski the Andes, to extend their snow
season to all year round. 
Juanita Viterbina Maldonado is an example of the
kind of hospitality Chileans are famous for. A few friends and I were on a
tour for the day to a vineyard and to the mountains. About halfway to the
peaks at Valle Nevado, Chile’s newest ski resort, we needed to make a
‘comfort stop’. Our driver saw a roadside stand and pulled over. The
setting, a few tables and chairs, some plants and a kiosk with food and cold
drinks, was conducive to relaxing and picture taking.
One of Chile’s leading exports is wine, for which they are receiving
numerous prizes in international wine-judging competitions. One bodega
(cellar or storehouse) to tour is that owned by the Cousino Macoul family,
located a half hour from Santiago proper. Many of the vineyards for this
company are scattered over the countryside, and can be seen on the ride to
the showroom.
If you are subject to altitude sickness, consult your doctor
before you leave, as there are medications available for this malady. I was
shocked to find myself overcome at the top of a mountain. It came on me
quickly. Fortunately I was in good hands at the SKI & MEDICAL CLINIC at the
Valle Nevado Resort. A few whiffs of oxygen alleviated my problems
immediately.